| Author | Message | ||
| H3Jim (68.105.103.139) Rating: N/A |
My current front door is opened by the air piston, which is electrically operated and very handy when the air is up. Since I plan to boon dock for extended periods, I am looking at ways to provide easy door opening for my extended stays. Of course one option is to add an air compressor to keep the pressure up along with finding and fixing all the leaks. Another might be to just make the entire door manually operated, although I think I would have to change the door lock too, and the door control is nice to have. I've seen some posts related to this subject, but a serach of the archives did ot turn up anything directly addressing this. The real question for my post is to ask if there are electric pistons, door operators that can be used to replace the air cylinder? My guess is that the air power is so much more flexible in terms of piston throw, that there just aren't any elctric ones that will work, but I'm counting on y'all to tell me. Thanks Jim | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Jim, ask Bill340 and he can tell you how to overcome the situation you have at hand! He's going to SHOW me how to do it when I see him!  Ace | ||
| TWO DOGS (67.209.132.14) Rating: N/A |
All the Cadilacs have a 12 volt air compressor on the left fenderwell...10 dollar item..just unhook air supply 'TO' the door switch,I'm going to use a small truck air tank and a well pressure switch to keep it at 50 pounds...just a suggestion.. | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.38.173)
Rating: N/A |
Jim: I have a Neoplan Jetliner with the air operated door. I had contemplated conversion to electric with a gear reduction motor and then like a light came on, decided that since I already am going to carry an aux. compressor in the rear bay that will tap in to my aux. supply air tank, why not just run another line to the door system either directly back to the compressor with a check valve into the original line to the door, or simpler yet, just go ahead and use the aux tank air, since it will have a compressor on a pressure switch supplying it, even while parked. The compressor Two Dogs talks of, found on all bigger cars with air suspension, would also work fine, coupled to a small reserve tank. I don't know about the $10 price though. They are $267 new from Cadillac or Buick (The Park Avenue) and salvage yards get about 75-100 for them around here; less than 1 cfm. You can buy a DeVilbiss or Campbell Hausefield Oilless for around 100 (110v), several sources. I will be using a 3.5 CFM piston compressor with 8 gal. tank as my aux. unit | ||
| Bill 340 (166.153.97.94)
Rating: N/A |
Jim, To operate the door on your H Model as a regular door it can be done this way: As you enter the coach on the right is a T handle (like an emergency bypass) turn that to the right when you are parked and lock the door outside with a key. Now when you are inside and you want out, just push the small lever on the door and go out. Push the door shut tight and it will lock. To enter the coach stick the key in (or leave it in when we are home) turn it to the left and it will unlock and open; then turn it back to lock right away as you go in pull the door shut behind you if you want to latch it and it will automatically be locked again. If you take the panel off to the air cylinders for your door which is in your stairwell to the right, one cylinder is the air cylinder that open and closes the door (I think it is the top one); the other cylinder is to prevent slamming as on a screen door for a house; pull the pin on that one and disconnect it. Then the door will open and close very easily. To start the coach and drive it normally, unlock the door with a key (leave it unlocked), turn the T handle the opposite direction, straight across, and you are back to driving mode. It really works very easily; we do it every day. No need for any other locks or switches. Hope this helps. Bill 340 And Ace, I will be in Wal Mart's parking lot Tuesday night...get your bus ready! | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Bill, say hello to Brenda. I wish it was that easy to "get it ready" but I think we can make it that far! Ace Oh yea, what time will you guys be there? | ||
| H3Jim (68.105.103.139) Rating: N/A |
Bill340, Thank you very much. I had all I needed right there, except for the smarts to use it corrrectly. The most irritating thing was the shock that prevents slamming, it really made the door hard to move even with the air disconnected. I'm going to go out right now and try it!! I had taken one of the front panels off before, and seen one end of the shock and the air closer, and all the farther I got was to wonder if one was the opener and the other the closer, or just what the dual function was. So much to figure out. Great idea. JIm | ||
| H3Jim (68.105.103.139) Rating: N/A |
Well it works very well. I have not started the coach to see if / when it airs up that the door may be wild now without the slower down. But manually, its just as advertised. Got the flu today, or I'd still be down there. Thanks Ace for alerting Bill, Thanks Bill for the solution. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
No Problem Jim! Us self converted H3's gotta stick together don't we? Ace | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (209.210.116.234)
Rating: N/A |
My front door is electric controlled powered by air. After the bus sits for a couple of days all the air leaks out and the door will not open. You may have a door air valve bypass like I do. By flipping this switch it releases the door from the air supply. Then it is easy to push open and closed. I installed a house type deadbolt lock and key after extending the frame to fit the lock. Sooos, when there is no air like when boondocking, the door is just like one on a house. I added a grab handle also on both sides. |