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Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 7:01 pm:   

Ok everyone, if you've been following I couldn't get the ol' gal to fire the other day but she'd turn over. Then, after I filled the filter she wouldn't turn over. I think I've got the turning over deal fixed, had one bad bat replaced it and she turns over well and it's 30 at the moment.

Now I didn't try it too long but she didn't sound like she was getting fuel. So I just want to check with ya'll one more time before I pull my hair out. I've got canister filters, one on top of the other. I can't see how to fill the lower strainer/water seperator. It seals with a stud that runs through it without the stud tight no fill up. The top one is no trouble and it's full the the brim. So what's my deal do I need to fill the lower up best I can? I've heard guys here talk about having to pull one off after it ran out but that's not an option so what do I do?
John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.17)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 8:15 pm:   

I am gonna get flack for this, but, fill them the best you can and give her a shot of either. There should be a spring cap on the blower intake, shoot a two second shot in there, wait 8-10 sec. and crank, you may need to give it a 1 sec shot a time or two. or three or four, to keep it running until it pulls fuel
John Rigby (24.174.233.93)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 8:38 pm:   

It could be solenoid problems. I have had the same problem starting my 04 in kansas around christmas when its freezing. I used a hair blower to heat up and release the soleniods and switches in back up to the right and in the compartment behind the rear wheel.
John.
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:01 pm:   

What switches and solenoids are you talking about John R? Mine has been strip of all the original electrical if your talking about what is in the engine electical compartment above the tranny door. If not let me know where your talking about and I'll give it a try.

John F I had thought of the starting fluid deal but I wanted to make sure it was going to eventually pull fuel and not have to run off either. I havn't delt with a 2-cycle before so I wasn't sure. Where aboust is the spring cap your talking about. There is a threaded hole in the cast part that turns to go into the blower. It's about 1/4 inch, will that work?
Jimmci9 (209.240.205.68)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:20 pm:   

you can buy newer filter bases, type that take spin on filters... pretty cheap....then you can use newer filters.....
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:31 pm:   

That would be a wonderfull deal Jim!!!!!! How and where would I get them and can I get a new base for my oil filters as well?
John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.17)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:41 pm:   

Nick, the 1/4 inch hole will work. Just don't overdo the either bit. Seeing how your still running around 30 degrees it isn't gonna start easy. Question, do you get white smoke when cranking, if so, that is unburned fuel and you are drawing in fuel.

Your other post about converting over to spin on adapters, any large truck dealer should be able to help you on that.

John '04 & '06
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:46 pm:   

Yea it's blows a small amount of white smoke but not what I think it should be. I've got a powerstroke that the glow plugs went out in. When it was cold I could lay a smoke screen for the Marines when I tried to start it and it turned over funny kinda a half run half starting sound. I know that's a four cycle and this is a two would that make the difference?

I'll deffinitely be looking into geting the filters swaped over. Thanks
John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.17)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 9:53 pm:   

OK, sounds like you might be getting fuel, just not getting it warm enough to fire. The either should do it.

BTW: where are you located? Any truck salvage yards near you? You could get the fuel filter brackets off a used Detroit. Might even find a Detroit with an oil filter adapter if they have some old ones sitting around.

John
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 10:00 pm:   

I'm in N.W. Ohio but I don't know of any salvage yards around, haven't looked but don't know of any off the top of my head but I'll sure look.
John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.17)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 10:10 pm:   

Nick, I wouldn't make any changes to the fuel system until you solve this problem. Then run the engine good before making the change to the fuel system so you have an easy to start warm engine.

Another thought, are you sure you have the filter cans propery seated? Also, most filter brackets have a plug on top you can remove to top off the filter with fuel, if so, do the primary (sock) first, then the secondary (paper).

If your anywhere around the old US 20 highway there should be some truck salvage yards along there, check your yellow pages.

John
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 10:40 pm:   

I don't have a sock on my fuel system. I've got a canister secondary (I think, top anyhow) and a bunch of metal discs stacked togather on the bottom. The top filter is a cylinder/housing to put the canister filter in and the top screws on, no problem to fill all the way to the top. It does have a small plug in it as well. The bottom only has a 1/4 inch squre headed plug horizontaly on the bracket/where the housing seals to it. I suppose I could pump fuel in with a hand pump of some sort but I was hoping it wouldn't be nessasary.
John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.17)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 11:05 pm:   

Hmmm.. not sure what you have there it sounds like some design of water seperator. OK, for now lets leave that alone if your able to fill it completly. For the other one, remove the plug and see if you can fill it full. You can do it several ways, I keep an old turkey baster (your wife wont like you stealing her's), even an eye dropper will do the job.

John
Phil Dumpster (24.16.243.37)

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Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 11:23 pm:   

If you are getting some white smoke out of the tailpipe when cranking, you're getting fuel. As the engine gets closer to starting temperature with more cranking, the smoke will get thicker, then turn darker until it starts.

The best thing you could do is preheat the engine as much as you can. If the engine doesn't have a block heater, you could light some charcoal in a pan and when the flames die down place it below the engine a few hours before you try to start it. Place cardboard or blankets over any openings in the engine compartment to seal in as much hot air as possible.

You can squirt the ether into the engine air intake, ahead of the filter, but it will take a bit more than if you can spray it in at the blower. Your engine may not have a provision for spraying at the blower, so if you can't find it don't worry.

Some spray the ether into a rag or towel and hold it over the intake. I get a little nervous holding a wick sprayed with a highly flammable substance. I would rather just hold the nozzle of the can aimed into the air intake, give it a three second shot, then put the can down and try starting the engine.

Contrary to urban legend, a diesel engine will not run on ether sprayed into the intake. A gasoline engine will, but not a diesel. What the ether does is it combusts during the compression stroke of the engine, causing the internals of the engine to heat up which then helps the engine start burning diesel.

This is very hard on the internals of the engine (rings and cylinder liners in particular) so you have to be careful with it. More is not better.

This goes without saying, but I had better say it anyway. Never use ether on a diesel engine which is equipped with glow plugs. The plugs can ignite the ether while the intake valve is still open, which can cause a serious explosion depending on how much ether is present.

If your fuel tank was empty (the coach was run out of fuel) immediately after it starts, throttle it up to around 1200 to 1500 rpm if it has good oil pressure to help the fuel pump suck the fuel from the tank.

Also remember, the faster you can spin the engine with the starter, the easier it will start. Use your powerstroke and a set of heavy jumper cables to give the starter as much power as it wants.

Lastly, be thankful you don't have a turbo on that engine. The lower compression ratio of the turbo motor makes starting in cold weather with marginal batteries difficult.
BrianMCI96A3 (65.160.209.74)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 1:25 am:   

The delay between the time fuel is injected into a cylinder and ignition is expressed as a cetane rating (similar to octane rating for gasoline, but different) For diesel fuel that rating is usually between 30-60.

Fuels that ignite faster have a higher cetane rating and conversely fuels that ignite slower have a lower rating.

Ether has a cetane rating of between 85 and 96, which when used in a diesel can ignite in the combustion chamber far sooner, lowering the ignition temperature to 360 degrees as opposed to diesel which needs combustion chamber temps of over 700 degrees.

A diesel engine will indeed run on only ether, I have either participated or have myself gotten a diesel to pick up a prime using only ether.

BUT while ether is fine in an emergency, such as those instances, it can dry out the cylinders.

That is why my starting fluid of choice is WD-40. Not only is WD-40 nicely atomized as it leaves the nozzle but it has a higher cetane rating than diesel (though not so high as ether) and being a lubricant will not harm the cylinders.

Nick, since it is known that you lost prime only after changing the filters, I think it is safe to say you have fuel in the tank, isn't it?

And, since you already mentioned that you have a plug just ahead of the blower, my suggestion would be to either have someone crank the engine over for you or use a remote starter button, then just AFTER the engine begins to turn over, spray WD-40 into the plug hole for a second or two, the engine should fire up pretty quickly thereafter, as it fires you need to quick on the WD-40 to keep it going BUT only a tiny spritz every half second or so.

Someone in an earlier post mentioned that a DD needs to spin at about 1200 RPM to catch a prime and so may take a few seconds for it to do so.

Don't forget to put that plug back in!

Brian
TWO DOGS (67.251.50.231)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 7:25 am:   

liquid wrench...in the spray can,is LOTS better than wd-40....definitly air in the lines..since you tried to start it with the fuel filters not full..REMEMBER THIS....if a diesel quits running....it's out of fuel....(it's that simple) no points ,or plugs to worry about...while you are at your DD dealer get a block heater..that's MORE important than the spin on thing
Lyle Jensen (48gmc) (216.16.4.200)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 8:01 am:   

The best way to get it started is to borrow a primer pump from the local DD shop and pump fuel into the primary filter and throught the pump on the engine .
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.40.77.246)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 8:07 am:   

How bout PB blaster will that do the same thing?
BrianMCI96A3 (65.160.209.74)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 9:40 am:   

PB blaster might work and TwoD's Liquid Wrench too.

BUT, the great thing about WD-40 is the type of nozzle they use on the can really atomizes the the spray, a lot of other sprays like JB-80 spray in a stream.

The more atomized particulates of fuel, the faster the fuel/air mixture will ignite.

Getting the engine warm, like TwoD said, is just going to make your task SO much easier.

If worse comes to worse you will need to do just what TwoD says: Borrow/rent a primer pump from the DD shop and have them explain to you (or better yet, write it down) the procedure for getting your 6-71 primed.

Brian
BrianMCI96A3 (65.160.209.74)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 9:45 am:   

Make that Lyle's idea with the primer pump!

Brian
Larry (208.18.102.85)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 11:08 am:   

Nick,
You are in truck salvage heaven, all over Ohio.
In washington Court House there is a bus and truck salvage out buy the cement plant. Also from Washington go West on route 35 at I-71 and 35 there is a nice truck salvege yard.
Infact several in Washington C.H..

Not bad from a fom and old Missouri hick eh!!!!
Happy shopping. Be sure to drive all around Washington you will find many.
Larry
Larry (208.18.102.85)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 11:11 am:   

Oh also drive up the 3C highway towards Columbus and you will find all kinds of buses and parts buses.
Larry
Sam Sperbeck (204.248.119.254)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 11:46 am:   

Hi Guys,
A very simple and inexpensive way to prime a Detroit Deisel is to buy a plastic garden sprayer, cut the wand off of the hose, fill the sprayer tank with fuel, remove the plug in the primary filter housing, install an adaptor in the primary filter housing, hook the hose from the sprayer to the adaptor and pump up the pressure in the sprayer. Let about a half gallon of fuel flow before trying to start the engine. After the engine starts and runs for a minute, shut the engine down, remove the adaptor. and replace the plug in the filter housing. You should be all set.
Thanks, Sam Sperbeck
La Crescent, MN
Tony (64.215.196.160)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 12:23 pm:   

Larry
I have drove the 3C Highway between Delaware and Columbus and never seen any Buses, is there a Junk yard there or something that I am not seeing
Michael & Cydny (Mjcruisin) (64.136.27.228)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 2:05 pm:   

I had the same problem when I changed my filters and even injencting the filter with fuel I still had air inside the head and the fuel lines leading to the head. What I did was went and bought a 10 lb fuel pump for $40 from auto parts store. I put it in between the fuel line and the secondary filter, using jumper wires from the starter. I plugged it in, took the quarter inch cap off the secondary filter until I got fuel, then quickly tightened the plug back up and started the engine, immediately unhooking the fuel pump, because I had been told extra pressure on the back of the fuel pump isn't good. Kinda Mickey Mouse but worked like a charm.
Good luck
Michael
Larry (208.18.102.180)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 9:26 pm:   

Tony,
The section of 3C where I see all these buses is between Washington CH and the 270 on ramp at Columbus Ohio.
I normally see them on lots and yards, several I had asked about were for parts. I guess everyone deals in used and junk buses there.
The junks or salvage yards are as I described above, are in Washington and off route 35.
Larry

Also on route 28 between Cincinnati & Bornville Ohio, I have seen numerious buses (that has been a year back).
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 10:06 pm:   

Thanks for all ya'll advice. I'm hoping to get her fired up tomorrow afternoon. I just went and pulled a shifter off another bus and hopefully will get that put on in the next week or so. First though I want to get her rolling and drive around the neighborhood once or twice just to get it out of my system.

I really appreciate all the post and they all help. Just so everyone knows I'm pretty causious about starting fluid and told myself that the only thing I was going to use it for on this bus was cleaning parts. However as cold as it is up here I've come to the conclusion that it's a requirement at present with no block heater or way to really warm up the engine. I hope before next winter I can get a block heater put in and maybe a Hydro-hot system so I'm not in this spot next winter.

I've maintained farm tractors for years and manytimes when one dies in the back 40 with no power with a mile or two the only way to start a 70's model tractor is with a shot of ether. Even so I kinda hurts every time I hear one rev up like they do on ether.

However, not that this has anything to do with this board but, I can say that I tried to blow a 4000 JD with about 30-40 seconds of ether and then hit the starter. It roared to life and then idled right down and pured. The thing was indestrucable!!!!! Later the thing broke a rocker and was splashing diesel fuel out the dipstick (we couldn't shut it down we had cattle to feed) and it never missed a beat, dang tough engine!!!!!!

Thanks again to all, I'll let everyone know how it works out tomorrow. It's 40 now (10:06pm) so I hope the cold will not be an issue.
BrianMCI96A3 (65.160.209.74)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 12:39 am:   

Fact is, I have heard engines on start-up making noises that made my teeth clench... when starting fluid was used incorrectly.

Nick is in a situation where money is tight, and doesn't have WD-40... but those of you needing a boost to start a cold engine and contemplating starting fluid, if you have WD-40, give it a try, as long as you can spray directly into the intake air stream, it should start just about as quickly as with ether but there is virtually no chance of damaging your engine.

I have used ether in the past, in a bind will probably resort to it again, and while I don't believe any engine I have ever dosed suffered any ill effects at all, I do think the safer alternative all the way around is WD-40, or some other petrolium product that atomizes its spray.

One really nice thing about WD-40 is that it not only can help get you started, but it can lube that squeaking door hinge too!

Brian
Randall Hays (69.4.195.109)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 1:12 am:   

A few years back I owned a 60' steel fishing boat. We fished out of Sanfran and went out about 20 miles. Now this boat had twin 6-71 DD's and a 3-31 with a 30kw power plant. After fishing all day we would shut down and go to bed with the warning radar running. Had 12 large starting batteries that we also used as house batteries so when we got up we would start the 3-71 and warm it up and then start one of the mains. Now sometimes it was very cold but I never had a problem getting them to start since I just kept grinding them till they spun fast enough to get the fuel started. Even changed out the fuel filters that way and because of the way they were mounted on the boat I never could put much fuel in them so I just spun them till they started. Never got "stuck" out on the ocean but did rescue a guy once who change out from gas to diesel and didn't change his tanks. His girlfiend said "I'm never going on this damm boat of your again" hehhee and don't think she ever did. So even if it might be hard on the starter (according to some) it never seemd to be a problem with our 6-71's If we ever get together I have a lot of funny stories to tell about the boat. Now I have a land cruiser MCI-8 so happy bussing all and to all a good night
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 8:40 am:   

IT'S ALIVE IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!

I couldn't wait till this afternoon so I got up and gave it a shot this morning and tada she fired right off. A little shot of ether and she didn't even turn over once just fired off, then she died, then about half a shot and she fired another half to keep her running a sec and she was running on her own!!!!! Drove her around the neighborhood just for exercise. Man it's a lot of work trying to drive the thing with the shifter broke off especaily first and second having to hold the shifter up in the forks but I've got another one and that will go on this week. Then it's off to work for a bath and get all the paint of the silver sides. Then probably a rest till I get some money to do something with her.

Thanks a bunch guys I'll keep you up to date.
Phil Dumpster (24.16.243.37)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 11:06 am:   

Ain't that ether wonderful stuff when used properly? Always keep some of that around in case you can't preheat your engine.

And remember, never use it on an engine which is equipped with glow plugs or an intake heater.
Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.2)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 11:50 am:   

Ether belongs in a locked cabinet that has to have the glass broken in order to remove it for use as a last act of desperation.
Tom Connolly (Tomconnolly) (64.58.196.218)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 12:27 pm:   

ether

1. The place that in desperation you send a bus that won't start.

2. An helpfull aid for mounting tires.

3. A volatile, highly flammable liquid, C2H5OC2H5, derived from the distillation of ethyl alcohol with sulfuric acid and used as a reagent and solvent. It was formerly used as an anesthetic on bus drivers attempting to apply definition #1.

Also called diethyl

At a minimum proper licensing and training are required to avoid it's use, misuse and abuse, this rule is encouraged so that ether users, miss-users and abusers do not enter the ether with their bus or tires.
John Feld (Deacon) (204.184.224.16)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 12:31 pm:   

Nick, thanks for the good news! JOHN 4104 & 4106
BrianMCI96A3 (65.160.209.74)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 8:35 pm:   

Because it has such a high cetane rating, ether has it's uses...especially in an emergency, and as Nick has proven you can indeed run a diesel on ether until it picks up a prime.

But unless circumstances make it unavoidable, the posibility of injury, to yourself as well as the engine, is always present when using ether.

Use whatever you makes you happy, but a safer and far less damaging alternative, proven to work EVEN on glow plug equipped engines, is WD-40.

Brian
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 9:32 pm:   

I've got another question for you guys. Like I said I got the ol' 6-71 fire this morning and dove her around the block(long block about 3 miles). When I got back I found I had a bad seal on one of the oil filters, no biggie still had pressure and I got it fixed after church. When I refilled the crank case and refired her it turned over quite a while, I'll gues 25-30 seconds then I let it rest 15 sec or so and then another 15-20 sec of cranking before she fire. So is this normal in 45-55 degree weather sitting in the sun or do I have fuel pressure leaking off some where?
Jimmci9 (209.240.205.68)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 9:48 pm:   

its not normal to have to crank several times...even at 45 degrees.... i think a tune-up would do you lots of good....the old '54 671 ive got will start on the first crank... it smokes white for a couple minutes... but geez... its 50 yrs old... last overhaul was in '68....i think houstons' got some mosquitos need killin...to check to see if your engine is leaking off, pinch off the fuel lines with a pair of vice-grips...after you kill it....then let it set 24 hrs... remove the vicegrips and see if it starts....i checked with DD... a new primary spin on fuel filter base is $27.... and a new secondary base is $24.... ive got both if you want them... used... $42... with fuel lines, fittings, and a new brass shut-off valve....plus freight....
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 10:06 pm:   

I love to have 'em Jim but I've got this thing to the point I can crank and drive it when I want to and I really can't spend another dime on her at the moment. As much as I'd love to I've had several bill hit at once plus insureance due all with about three months and I've got to get some bills paid before I can play. Thanks though, when I free up some cash I'll get hold of ya and see if you've still got 'em.
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 7:35 am:   

Alright guys here we go again!!!!! I just went out to start her, I was going to drive her to work today. I turned over pretty good but didn't fire off. So I figure I'd give it a shot of
WD-40 I got yesterday. So I did and then all of a sudden it just quit turning over. When I went and check the batts the negative ground clamp had melted completly. WHY?????????
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad) (204.193.117.66)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 9:55 am:   

Sounds like you had a poor connection at that negative terminal. Poor connection=resistance, resistance=heat, heat equals melted terminal. When checking for poor connections, I apply power to the circuit briefly, then check each connection using a laser temperatue gun. The terminal that is warmer is the poor connection. Hope this helps, Jack
PS: it is entirely possible to have more than 1 poor connection.
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (69.68.33.248)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 10:01 am:   

I haven't yet taken apart the connection between the two cables on the negative side. It's all taped up and when I grabed them the only one that was hot was the one that melted (that makes sence when I see it written down). Anyhow it also could be that I didn't have a heavy duty terminal on the post. All this I thought about on the way to work. What do ya think?
Jimmci9 (209.240.205.68)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 10:26 am:   

jacks right about the terminals.... loose wiring has caused many fires....have you checked your starter amp draw????....it may be dragging...pulling more amps than necessary.....
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 10:29 am:   

One thing is for certain you were flowing enough amperage to melt lead!

If I had to guess, with out having heard the starter turn the engine over, or looking at the batteries or wiring, I'd say that bad connections can create a resistance which in turn can create a tremendous amount of heat when you are attempting to draw a heavy current from a battery.

Combine a normally large draw, the starter, with a starter that may need some lubing, may have some glazing on the armature, with wiring that might have some corrosion, with connections that might not be 100% AND cold weather? I'm thinking that kind of draw could melt lead at the point of highest resistance.

Brian
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (69.68.33.248)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 12:18 pm:   

The started sounds good, now I really don't know what it's supposed to sound like since the only one of these I've been around was when I was about 5.

Thanks for the input all. I'm going to get a heavy duty teminal today and crank her tonight and hopefully drive her to work in the morning so I can get that nasty brown latex paint of the silversides.

Thanks again.

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