| Author |
Message |
Jeff (Jeff) (68.96.223.112)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 9:19 pm: | |
Looking for information from those that have 12 volt fluorescent lighting inside their coach conversion. Do you notice any problems with radio interference or light flicker or any problems with their 12 volt fluorescent lighting? What research I have done tells me that fluorescent lighting require less amperage than the regular bulb 12 volt lights. Which do you feel the light is as bright or white? I had all bulb lights in my camper. They were nice. I'd like to put as little strain on my batteries and charging systems as necessary. (Alternator, Inverter, Shore power) I've been asking my friends about DC lighting vs AC current lighting. I was told to have what 110v AC I need but to have my lighting to be DC current.
Jeff
"Take Another Road"
Member 4:10 Club
Rustless not Busless in Buckroe
1988 TMC RTS-06
6V92-TA DDEC IV/V731
da Bubba |
Bill Butler (65.58.220.80)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 10:35 pm: | |
Jeff, we have two, four foot florescent lights in our bus and they work just fine. They are located behind valances so are not real bright.
One is in the bathroom along with another light
and the other is over the dining table.
It took some searching to find a new ballast after
one went out, but a local electrical supply found them for me.
I would recommend them.Bill Butler |
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.37.92)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 12:58 am: | |
I have 6 36" 30w Thinline fixtures in my neoplan, all recessed, one 12w, and 1 18w + 3 flourescent bulbs in 110v fixtures, 20w. Also have 6 10w Halogen Puck lts. and 6 incandescent in closets & cabinets, along w/40ft. of 12v rope. I think that's enough! For main lighting, I don't think u can beat florescent for efficiency, but the lumens from flourescent tubes seems somewhat lower than what is generally claimed. |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.242)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 4:55 am: | |
I have tried to eliminate most incandesant lamp in the coach with florescent. A nice lamp that is 12v and screws into a 110 type screw base is this marine florescent lamp which uses about 13watts and puts out light of a 60watt lamp.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?keyword=2675106&resultCt=1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=66519
I have found this bulb very useful in changing 120vac fixtures to 12vc floresant with no modifications. I have modified a couple of RV type fixtures for its use. puts out quite a bit of light and does not affect electronics.
Hope this was helpful
"Imagine Your Dreams"
cdcd |
FAST FRED (65.154.176.153)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 5:23 am: | |
Beware of the cheapo florescents.
One problem is the cheapo self contained inverter can make loads of RF and screw up your radio or TV reception.
The bigger problem is the mfg. only give the ideal current draw of the BULB and conviently forget the incredable inefficency of their cheapo inverter.
Just touch a unit thats been on for a long time , the heat you feel in the housing is your DC lost to the inverter.
With LED getting better & brighter its not long before they will be worthwhile for general lighting,
We use zenon as the best compromise.
Don't put out as much light per watt as halogen , but they ARE dimmable and run far cooler.
I have found a really bright light is needed once in a while , and the ability to dim electronicly allows the bright light to be tuned down for dining , or general illumination.
For real efficent flourescent lights the alt energy folks have balasts that are radio silent and very efficent , at about $30 each.
FAST FRED |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.69)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 2:33 pm: | |
I have been experimenting with LED for some time now, mostly because of the RAVE reviews that were and are on this and other boards.
My analysis to this point shows that they still are not a light to read by, are very minimal as a light source for NORMAL room lighting but if you need a night light to see at night or when traveling, will offer some limited lighting so you will not (hopefully) bump your shins when you move about in the bus. This is thanks due to the current "Super Brite" LED technology. But they are'nt anywhere near the old incandescent, halogen or florescent lamp light output. THE ONLY advantage is it uses little power, but puts out LITTLE lite.
Don't get confused with the ratings of lumens. They give the LED a high lumen measurement but now I see the report has been pulled and revised to a much much lower level due to the tiny size of the actual light source.
LEDs were meant for indication on control boards and serve well there and are slowly being experimented with as a light source for a room IDEA, but no where near ready for room illumination. I hazard to say that room illumination through LED technology will come but NOT with the current style of LED available today due to the limited light available from even the britest LED combinations.
"Imagine Your Dream"
cd |
Jerry Campbell (69.59.209.36)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 9:52 pm: | |
Has anyone used these cold cathode florescents.
They look pretty good but a little expensive.
http://www.cetsolar.com/ccf.htm |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.79)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 10:32 pm: | |
I was looking at the cold cathode florescents that West Marine carries, yes they are very expensive.
I suggest you be sure to look at the dimensions, the ones I looked at are a minimum of 4 to 6 inche high, that is, into the ceiling. An RTS does not have that much space for a fixture so I counted them out.
They look good but I'm not sure they will hold up any better than the normal RV style lites. I'm not sure, but I think the lights in the RTS are that style, whatever they are, they are really economical to run.
Guess you could look at the West Advisor in their catalog and see if they explain it better....
"Imagine Your Dreams"
cd |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 12:21 am: | |
CoryDane, I too have been experimenting with LEDs for some time... So far, I have converted the rear tail/turn and brake lights, the front and side turn signals, the stepwell lights, the dash lights, the bathroom aisle light and inside light, and built several light fixtures I intend to use as lighting for my coach and am in the process of converting my marker lights.
Just a couple of minutes ago, I took one of the light fixtures I made into a darkened room, using a test stand I clipped it up near the ceiling and sitting on the floor 6 and 1/2 feet from the light was able to read a passage from "When Pride Still Mattered" a book about Vince Lombardi at arms length.
It was not a strain to read with just the single light, but I plan on using a lot more than just one.
Perhaps you are using lower intensity LED's... maybe you are using the wrong resistors.
I made sure I had an extra safety margin with my LED fixtures, and if I hadn't I'd be getting even more light from them.
Certainly the light from one LED light does not compare to a 100 watt bulb, but since that particular fixture draws only 42 miliamps, I could install 20 of those lights and STILL not be drawing a whole amp of current.
Brian |
gary Stadler (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 3:37 am: | |
TOTALLY HAPPY with my 12 volt fluorescents. I bought regular fixtures and replaced the ballasts with ones from these guys.
Yes, they do draw less power than an equivalent 120 volt ballast for the same brightness. I've never seen any interference with my computer, stereo, or GPS.
I've had them for two years now, zero problems.
RECOMMENDED HIGHLY
Get the ballast from these guys:
http://www.newenglandsolar.com/catalog_pages/catalog85.htm
40 watt unit, part number 850-040, $27 |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.74)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 4:48 am: | |
Yea, ok Brian
Here's the poop
I followed the suggestions left on this board sometime back.
I am useing ULTRA BRIGHT T-1 3/4 at 3000 MCM
At first I connected 4 in series and a 330 resistor but that was too dim.
I then shorted one LED so only 3 were working in series, the LED is bright white, as a matter of fact, I thought I may burn them out but measured voltage was 3vdc.
I dont suspect it would be too wise to go to 2LEDS
I ran two strings of 3LEDS in a darkened room and yes, you can make out the table that you are about to kick your shin bone with and if you hold a book close, you can read it with some strain but these are not going to light a room by any means in any mass amounts.
I had already changed out my Stop, Directional, Tail lights with Led lights but I bought the lights from Ron the Bus Nut, they were made for the job.
If you can see something I am doing wrong, let me know. I was planning to use them while driving so the halls were lit and the bath when parked so you can see when you gotta go LOL. But these are not even the britness of a car marker light, what are they, the 894?
So far, I am still loyal to the florescents since they are the most economical to run for the light they put out. I do have a few Halogens but only for the dimmng feature.
Thanks for the response
"Imagine Your Dreams"
cd |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 8:46 am: | |
First, the minimum string that I use with a 330 ohm resistor is 6 LEDs and the light fixture I was using had 18 LEDs with 3 strings of 6 LEDs and a 330 ohm resistor in series tied together in one fixture.
Right now on Ebay you can purchase SIXTEEN THOUSAND MCD LED's or another words SIX times brighter than the ones you were using, and a wide range of lesser intensity LED's 14K 12K 10K 8K 6K 5K MCD for varing prices.
The highest would be the 16K...you can get 20 for $20 I believe, and less for the others.
Brian |
Dale MC8 (69.19.146.152)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:41 am: | |
Brian, could you post in the eBay section, where to find these LED's? I was just looking yesterday and didn't notice anything like that. Of course, I may have just checked incorrectly.
TIA
Dale |
Roderick W. Chandler (172.134.13.185)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:44 am: | |
Brian I would like to use LEds for markers and tail/turn signals. Do you have any drawings or plans for the lights you have made. If you will share pleae send to me off board Thanks. R. Chandler |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 8:56 pm: | |
Dale, actually if you simply type in WHITE LED or RED LED or AMBER LED you should find large numbers of each at the Eplace.
CoryDane... an electronics wizard has built me a tiny voltage regulator that will allow me to dim the LED's in my dash panel lights, I was going to use a rotary switch that I built with higher and higher resistors at each switch position but now the dash lights will be infinitely variable again.
He ALSO built me a very awesome latching relay system using one 8 terminal relay to activate another and controlled by a mom. on/off/mom. on switch that activates or deactivates both relays, by alternately grounding the coils!
In other words, the wires running to the switch to controls this device are ground wires!
So... flip the switch up and the light or pump or fan etc. comes on, let the switch return to center the light or pump stays on, flip the switch down and it's off
Plus, I can use multiple switches at different locations to control the same device.
Brian |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.161)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 10:00 pm: | |
So do the switchs hold the coil when you turn on the switch, then you use the sw to open the coil to drop out? I like these fun, simple ckts so you now caught my attention.
If you know the workings of your voltage reg for the LED dimmer, I would be greatly interested in that.
You use a lot of LEDs to get light out of them. I have to look for the ones you have found. Well, we keep on experimenting, don't we.
" Imagine Your Dreams "
cdcd |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 12:25 am: | |
There are a few great things about the latching relay device my friend created...the switch only needs to supply ground momentarily...There is almost no load through the switch when you turn the circuit on...When you let go, the switch returns to the off position and there is NO load... BUT the circuit is still 'latched' and will stay on until you flip the switch the other way, which activates the other relay and breaks the circuit.
It's such an elegantly simple circuit, and what's especially great for me: I got a boxful of those 24V relays from that E-place
Brian |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.41.212.127)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 12:34 am: | |
CoryDane, my friend built the prototype voltage regulator and showed me how well it works, he is going to rig up a 'production' unit when he has time, and give me a schematic then, when I have it in my hands I'll pass the details on to you
Brian |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.80)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 8:13 pm: | |
that would be great, I love toys like this, as well as buses LOL.
Please do pass it on, I could use something like that. Let me know if you need an email addy
"Imagine"
cd |
BrianMCI96A3 (205.188.209.8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 8:35 pm: | |
Yeah, send it to me at theonlycomatoes @ aol.com with the subject:
CoryDane BUS NUT TOYS. |