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Jerry Campbell (64.12.116.203)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 11:35 am:   

Has anyone seen best used the Radiant Shield Insulation from The coach design store. looks good but 1600. to do my bus looks to be a little priceie but if it works.help because I am at this point. Thanks
Joel N-Cal (64.142.48.67)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 1:59 pm:   

Jerry,
You might want to check the following. It was posted previously.

http://polyair.com/insulation/homepage.htm

Joel N-Cal
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.69)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 2:18 pm:   

Look at this one too.
Claim to be the new technology and now is the base of the "R" rating system, rating is supposed to be really high like 14.
Based largly upon air infiltration.

https://www.harborstore.net/highr/index.php?cPath=21

Good luck

"Imagine Your Dream"
cd
Jerry Campbell (205.188.209.8)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 3:15 pm:   

They say that this has a R value of 38 With only 1/4" can this realy be


Jerry
102A3
nelson (152.163.252.163)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 6:44 pm:   

I just looked into one radiant product used by a small manufacturer of new high end Prevost coaches here in Knoxville. It was a thin piece of alum. foil with a very thin layer of foam the consistency of cotton candy on either side of the foil. It may be a miracle product but I've decided to stay with my decision to go with hot spray foam.
There are so many conflicting claims and voodoo r-ratings for insulation that it seems impossible to sort out the true facts. It's like the highly inflated, new vehicle fuel mileage ratings of about 15 or 20 years ago. They mean nothing that can be counted on to make a reasonable decision.

Nelson Thomas, Knoxville TN.
john marbury (Jmarbury) (65.100.118.175)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 7:34 pm:   

Well, as soon as the weather warms up I'll let you know how it works. I've put in my bus but have not had the bus out since I put it in.
Come on SPRINGTIME!
John
vern rainville (68.9.3.37)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 8:56 pm:   

I to, am at this point. I have seen and read the article in Bus Conversion Magazine this month. I found that this company is in Massachusetts and I am in RI. Looks like I will take a ride and see (what I can't). I'll post what little I can. Some of the other products require an certain air space to work effectively and if not "exacxtly" that airspace, the R value drops off to non effective. I know I'll pass on those products.Some of the other bubble/foil products I have seen at Lowe's....I look...I read.....I see... I touch...... I feel.... I pass. Vern (in RI)
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.103.131)

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Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 12:27 am:   

It's not going in my conversion. I am using Super Tuff-R at R=7.2 per inch, foil covered both sides. Most areas I have at least two layers, which gives me more reflective layers. In the roof I end up with 4 layers and the walls end up with 2 and a 1/4" air gap between them. Better insulation than standard supplied in some manufactured housing these days.

Haulmark are using bubble wrap foil in their enclosed trailers, and also in their truck conversions, but for an extra fee, they will put foam in the walls instead.

To much at stake to put 'snake oil' in the walls only to find out it doesn't work. Anyway, I've bought the foam now....... LOL.

Peter.
vern rainville (68.9.3.37)

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Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 10:28 am:   

To all, as I live in RI, this guy is in Massachusetts. I am planning on meeting with the company sometime in the next 3 to 5 days (hopefully). He has offered to send me a piece of the insulation but I'll stop by and check it out. If anyone would like some, with the literature, email me off line and I will present it to the company. I too find it hard to believe R-38 is available at a 1/4 inch thickness. If it is anything like the bubble foil that requires 3/4" air space, I don't think I will be interrested. When the air space is diminished, so is the R value rating. What I am hoping to find out is that this will work at 50% or better to give me an R value of 19 or higher. THAT in conjunction with foil faced ridgid insulation, at 7.2 R factor per inch, I need 1 1/2 inches of insulation. That will give me 10.8 R factor plus this "miricle" product which will give me close to R-30 and I will consider spending the $1000.00. I realize spray foam is terrific for alot of reasons but I chose the ridgid foam for ease of availability, small quantity purchases, easy to install and relatively no mess (and no large out of pocket expense). If anyone has any questions concerning the product, email me off line and I will present them to the company. On another similar note, prior to putting my plywood on the walls and ceiling I think I, like Gregg P. plan to drill and sprayfoam all of my tubes with the can stuff. Any thoughts on this??? Again, another similar note, prior to installing my plywood, I plan on installing .045 rubber (rubber roofing product) to all of my metal frames. I am hoping this will cut down on the direct transfer of heat from my roof, through my tubes, thus creating a thermal break. I know I'm reaching but does anyone have any thoughts on this..thanks Vern ( RI)
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 7:56 pm:   

I think I'd use the stuff that didn't expand as much, like is made for windows. I've used stuff called dap-tec around the house and I like it a bunch. It's water sauluble and doesn't expand so much as to warp things. I had a buddy in GA that put the stuff in the red can under a tub he tiled in. About three weeks later almost all his tile had poped off!!!!! I also think I'd give it plenty of time to set just to make sure the foam setting didn't back the screws out some how. Not likely but what's one day to wait.
FAST FRED (65.154.176.214)

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 5:37 am:   

Read the literature very carefully as about R7 per inch is all you can ever expext.

See if the lit doesn't claim an R value "equivelant" or some such drivel.

(Or with radiant shields , expect the stuff to be under a 8 inch deep rafter in a house roof).

CAVIAT EMPTOR , same with fuel "addatives . oil "improvers"and any miracle cures.

Really great insulation would be worth millions to fridge makers as there always fighting the same battle.

FAST FRED
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.244)

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Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 4:39 pm:   

Peter B
I spoke with the people about the Super Tuff R insulation as I am also interested in it.

The R value is rated 14 but requires a min 3/4" air gap between the outside facing insulation and the bus outside wall.

Also, they say it serves no purpose to install a second layer, it will do nothing as far a insulation.

I am thinking about using this, installed on the inside wall panel, BUT, as I feel the claims seem abit (overwhelming), I have decided to place 9R insulating rigid foam, about 5/8ths inch thick, and then cover the foam facing the inner wall with the Tuff'r.

A thought that I had was, if it REQUIRES the 3/4" gap to achieve the 14R rating, then if it is against the wall board toward the inside, It will have little value keeping the heat in in cold weather so the foam board should help there.

She said the 3/4" air gap is a MUST as the dead air space is part of the insulation equation.

They insist this stuff works in Arizona where the sun bakes a car, they glue the Tuff'r to the body metal, sort of make the 3/4 air gap non-existant, but it is used in planes and rvs and cars.

"Imagine"
cdcd
Jim-Bob (152.163.252.163)

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Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 11:40 pm:   

Well, if you glue this stuff to the inside of a body panel. why can't we go get about 50 rolls of regular aluminum foil & glue that inside the bus?
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.79)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 1:07 am:   

Yea, about 100 rolls of Renolds Aluminumn stuck all over the walls and ceiling. But, what would you use for the poly inner layer and then stick some more aluminumn on top of that?

The speil was pretty good and it hits a concern I have always had about insulation, air movement. They call fiberglas insulation a "air filter". LOL Well, the pink stuff wont stop air flow and that is the criteria the new standard is being based on. The pink stuff isnt king of the rafter anymore.

Ok, Ok, now you will want to by a billion yards of plastic sheeting and wrap your bus in that, well, when you do, you can get a bug bomb and take care of any "guests" you may have aquired while working on the conversion.

"Imagine"
cd
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.81.42)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 4:24 am:   

CoryDane,

I think you have your wires a little crossed. Super Tuff-R is a solid foam board with an R-value of 7.2 per inch. It is also foiled covered on both sides. Adding more layers will increase its R-Value by the thicknesses added ie. 2 x 1" will equal 14.4 R-value.

Acording to one supplier, the extra layers of foil will help the refective properties, but he was not sure how much by, so I ignored that in respect of my calculations.

In my wall application, the first 1" will be against the outer skin and the way the foam will fit into one side of the "Z" channel ribs, if I use a strip or two of 3/16" ply 1" wide, I can attain a small dead air gap, which will be an added bonus.

I have never seen any 5/8" rigid foam board with an R-9 value and again Super Tuff-R is rigid foam board.

The bubblewrap type insulation will give no R-value unless the air gap is there, you will be wasting your money, it needs the air gap to work.

I also said, Haulmark are using foiled bubblewrap type insulation, they are sandwiching it against the outer skin. I know this as I can see it in this position in the roof of my enclosed trailer where the cut out is for the roof air.

Peter.
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.142)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 5:47 am:   

Pete
How about that! I've been looking at so much insulation packages that I now am giving them new names.

Well the stuff I am talking about is HIGH-R, hmmm sounds like a punn, don't it? It comes in a roll, is 1/4" thick, metalic film on both sides. and this is the place that gave me all the info on.

The foam board is at MENARDS, and clearly marked on the board R9. I thought it was kinda high but never the less, I will still put it on the wall board.

Well it seems there is more than one company in agreement about the air space, glad we are getting some good info here.

Researching this stuff gets to be tedius, don't you think? LOL Be glad when she is done.

"Imagine"
cd
FAST FRED (65.154.176.246)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 6:07 am:   

All the insulation in the world won't change he fact that there is a heck of a lot of GLASS in most coaches , and even with doubble glass it stinks as insulation.

Warmshades have an R value of 7 , which is 400% better than dual glass and costs 1/10th.

A really WHITE! roof color will do as much in the summer as any "Majic" in$ulation.

A stock 35 ft coach with white roof will sit in FL humid summer heat with only 2air cond units cycling, and heat in dead of winter (0F) with a 42,000btu cheapo suburban.

Has anyone done the math to figure the pay back on $3000 worth of in$ulation?

FAST FRED
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.81.42)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 6:24 am:   

CoryDane,

Yes, it can get a little tedious and now, thankfully I have bought mine, I am basically done with that part of it.

Now all I need is to instal it, reinforce the roof where I will be cutting out for the 2 a/cs and an area for the crank-up satelite dish.

Haven't made up my mind whether to run the 110volt through the bays and up to the outlets or across the ceiling and down, decisions, decisions....... LOL.

Boy will I be glad when this one is done. Be even happier when the automatic is installed.

Peter.
Gary Carter (68.25.119.33)

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Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 1:35 pm:   

The bubble pack insulation is rated for radiant heat only and does little with convection heat, whereas the foam does not care what type of heat source you use.

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