| Author |
Message |
Clark Richardson (64.0.99.137)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2001 - 11:22 pm: | |
I would like to build my own leveling jacks, but know nothing about hydraulics. Can anyone tell me where I can find plans or information to design the system. Any help will be appreciated.
Clark Richardson bandc@coastalnet.com |
Tuck-04 (64.53.32.71)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 10:30 pm: | |
Clark you don't say what kind of bus you have. Do you have air bags if so why not use those for leveling.
Tuck |
Jansie (216.202.56.3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 4:01 pm: | |
Now you've got may attention. I'd like to know what's involved in a levelling system that uses the air bags. Just an overview? And approx how much $US installed? |
Scott Whitney (63.151.64.84)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 2:01 am: | |
I've had brief discussions with folks about this before. Doesn't sound too hard to replace the leveling valves with electric manually controlled valves.
BUT
I was wondering if the existing valves could be left in place and the control rods disconnected. Then reconnect the valve arm to a small motor that could be electrically controlled. (Up, middle and down positions for fill, hold & release air) Seems like it might be easier and maybe cheaper than replacing the valves but maybe not. Small geared DC motors as seen in industrial supply stores with a reversable switch come to mind. . . Any ideas?
Scott |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.172)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 1:33 pm: | |
This is how I did mine, keeping the road leveling valves. I have 3 point leveling, utilizing the kneeling system that came with the bus for the front. Up front I added one normally closed air solenoid that bypasses the air supply to the kneeling system. I simply electrically disconnect the normal kneeling valves and use the added solenoid for raising, and the kneeling system for lowering or quick raise. On the back I added a 5 port air pilot valve, 12v, to each side. The air supply from the road leveling valve goes thru it in the "activated position". In the off position, air is supplied from a seat push/pull valve via a 1/4" air line from the front, thru the other side of the pilot valve. Costs: Front solenoid came from the door system of the bus. 12v Pilot valves were $75/ea, seat valves were $14ea., and about $50 for fittings, tubing, and 2 switches (1 dpdt, 1spst). There is one hitch though that I have not solved (but then I haven't really bothered either) If u raise it too high, it tends to pull the road valve arms out of adjustment. I think longer flex arms on the valves would solve it. |
Clarke (216.17.134.3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 5:32 am: | |
If you lengthen the arms on your height control valves, you'll lose accuracy in height setting by a proportional amount. Also, be careful that you don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended operating height range on your air springs. |
FAST FRED (63.215.230.146)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 6:20 am: | |
For a long time I have been considering replacing the arms to the level valves with a STRONG adjustable push pull cable.
Problem is the cables only adjust 3 or 4 inches , the total rise of the leveling system is doubble that , or more.
Till I can find cables that will have about 10in of movement, the concept is stuck.
Boat steering systems do go far enough , but unlike shifting cables are very big ,, and expensive.
FAST FRED |
JJ (64.12.102.151)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 09, 2001 - 12:06 am: | |
Fred, think along the lines of a capstan or spindle. A line (atleast four round turns)leaves the capstan; goes to the level arm,; continues onward to a pulley; then back to the capstan creating a continuous loop. Use a bowden cable with a crank attached to spin the capstan. Could be turned with a small gear-motor as well, though I prefer the KISS of the manual system. Capstan/pulley dia.'s determine speed of travel; distance between capstan and pulley could be ten inches or ten feet! Cheers...JJ |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.210)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 09, 2001 - 1:20 am: | |
Clarke: I'vegot your cautions in mind. Mine Have mild spring steel rods that connect the valve arm to the body attachment bracket. These arms have a radius curve to them. Problem is when I use the 4-4.5" of lift left in the bags above normal ride height, these rods get pulled straight and exert to much pull on the valve arm, pulling it out of fine adjustment. I'm thinking of an arm that would have more radius bend that could tolerate the extension without over-pull on the valve arm. |
Claimjumper (216.190.28.34)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2001 - 10:36 pm: | |
You can avoid all that crap by converting to a 4 point manual leveling system, in moments I can adjust my 06 front or rear side to side 10 inches up or down or adjust going down the road.>>>Dan |
Scott Whitney (63.151.64.84)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2001 - 11:20 pm: | |
What is involved in your manual system? A series of screw jacks or? I'd be interested in a nice simple system.
My needs are a but funny in that I care more about rock solid stability more than anything. This is because I am planning on using a Starband dish which requires a perfect alignment. Hence I am thinking my air bags may only be used for on the road and then to dump to come down on the secondary leveling system. (even if it means a stack of wood blocks) |
chad (12.4.214.178)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2001 - 11:44 am: | |
I removed my leveling valves and replaced them with elec tric solenoids. all for less than $250.
the leveling valves are there for changing the air pres as the load shifts (like when everybody sits on the same side)once your coach is done the load should not change too much.
also nice to be able to adjust riding charactoristics with the flip of a switch for softer ride or extra ground clearance.
just my thoughts
chad |
Jim Wilke (199.181.167.68)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 3:30 pm: | |
I have not been able to find reasonably priced seat valves. My parts house wants $26.00 each. Where are you getting them for $14.00 and what brand, PN, etc?
Jim-Bob |
Jim-Bob (199.181.167.68)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 21, 2001 - 5:11 pm: | |
I still need to know where you guys are buying the seat valves new for $14.00? JMaxwell, are you out there? |