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Larry Nelson (Larryn4106)
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Username: Larryn4106

Post Number: 86
Registered: 8-2008
Posted From: 70.13.25.82

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Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2011 - 9:27 am:   

Here is my problem (4106). I have a new clutch(1500 miles on it). During the last trip, I have been having a problem with the clutch pedal not wanting to come up....now you can guess this is a real problem. This problem manifests itself as the days journey progresses....in other words, it does not happen pulling out of a campground. So, my analytical mind has determined that HEAT causes this problem to kick in.

When the shop in MS put my new clutch in, I had to get a new (salvage) yoke shaft (the shaft that runs thru the bellhousing and has a big release lever outside the bellhousing) from Luke, since mine had the release lever spot welded to the shaft and the splines were shot.

I am thinking that as the engine, tranny...warm up, that this shaft might be binding in it's bushings....which the shop replaced.

A. Does this make sense?
B. Can this shaft be removed while the tranny (V drive) is in place? (so I could "dress it up" with emery paper).
C. There are two zerks for this shaft. I wonder if the clutch shop serviced those prior to me picking it up.???
D. Is there something else I should be looking at? I have followed the clutch rod "train" from front to back.

I have a trip coming up after Labor Day and I just had all the bearings checked, replaced as necessary....at all four corners. I really would like to have my clutch pedal spring back up when I lift my foot off of it. Yes, I have a return spring at the lever but it seems to be weak in the knees.

Thanks in advance.

(Message edited by larryN4106 on August 20, 2011)
Tony LEE (T_lee)
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Username: T_lee

Post Number: 83
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 209.112.181.170

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Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2011 - 12:56 pm:   

After work on the clutch I found the pedal was catching on the way up. My linkage was binding on the side of the clutch housing because the lever was too far in on the splines.
George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member
Username: George_todd

Post Number: 1278
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 99.37.28.23

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Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2011 - 1:00 pm:   

Larry,

Do you have an air assist on your clutch? If so, that is the first place I would look. If it is adjusted for too much assist, it will cause the problem you describe.

Secondly, I would definitely grease the two zerks you describe, but more importantly, check out the linkage front to back. Look for spots where the rod may be binding, and lube the zerks on the bellcranks, front and rear.

If you don't have an air assist, how much effort does it take to depress the pedal? If it goes down too easily, your return spring is not strong enough, which can cause clutch slippage! We don't want to torture your left knee, but the presssure plate has to hold the disc tight against the flywheel when the clutch is not being released.

Also, check and make sure that there is a little slack in the release rod at the release arm, with the pedal fully up. the throwout bearing does NOT want to run when the clutch is not being used!
G
Larry Nelson (Larryn4106)
Registered Member
Username: Larryn4106

Post Number: 87
Registered: 8-2008
Posted From: 174.157.200.106

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Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2011 - 5:31 pm:   

I am thinking I might have a release arm binding on the bellhousing...that really makes some sense. It might be installed too far on the shaft, as suggested. On a cool morning starting out, no problem....engine, bellhousing, tranny all get up to temps and it just might possibly be just enough "expansion" to drag, just enough, on the bellhousing. Can't wait to check this. Oh, and I have a spring assist clutch.
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Registered Member
Username: Pvcces

Post Number: 1383
Registered: 5-2001
Posted From: 65.74.64.157

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Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 1:14 am:   

It sounds like the spring assist unit is out of adjustment. That adjustment is pretty critical.

Because the spring assist (mousetrap) is overcoming most of the pressure plate tension, it is very easy to get the linkage to bind enough to hold the pedal down.

Good luck.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
ketchikan, Alaska
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1578
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 76.214.45.168


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Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 7:26 am:   

The arm that operates the clutch from the outside is splined , and can be installed WRONG.

Simply use the measurements in DA Book and check everything from the clutch pedle back , all the measurements and locations are given.

FF
Larry Nelson (Larryn4106)
Registered Member
Username: Larryn4106

Post Number: 88
Registered: 8-2008
Posted From: 50.83.99.205

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Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 6:35 pm:   

So far, without taking it out of the garage for a long drive (next week for new tires)....it was the clutch release ARM that was too close to the bellhousing. I had my wife push in the clutch with me under the clutch. When she released the clutch pedal, it did not want to return all the way. I loosened the arm clamp (around the splined shaft), and with a heavy screw driver, I pried it slightly away from the bellhousing. It (the lever) immediately returned to the "pedal up" position. Yes, I checked my clutch geometry with the book (I have those two pages printed out) and made a minor adjustment there. This release arm, btw, is different than the one the clutch shop in MS removed....it has a more pronounced curve. Got it from Luke's and it came off of a 4106. Someday, if I ever have to reposition that arm (per the book) I expect it to be difficult to do, as cannot see the shaft any longer as you pull the arm off. I can see putting it back on in the same position is a possibility. Possibly someone has a trick to that. Thanks for all the suggestions.

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