| Author | Message | ||
| Tony (63.202.21.64)
Rating: |
The over the road A/C in my MCI9 is out of freon as far as I can tell Its just a leak. Should I replace the R12 after fixing the leak or what is involved in changing to another type refrigerant that is more user friendly or should I just can the road air and go with rooftops the only part of the conversion that has been done so far is the gutting of the interior. I wont live long enough too make all the mistakes myself any and all help would be appreciated. | ||
| Dwight (63.16.168.199) Rating: N/A |
If you do not mine the noise the roof air has ... , that is the way to go, it is almost like an outboard motor, only a few bolts to unscrew, to through it away and replace it ?? LOL.. | ||
| jmaxwell (66.42.92.161) Rating: N/A |
If u have a leaky R12 system, your best bet is to junk it, unless you have a stash of r12. You may want to consider a basement model with staged compressors (strictly electric from a genset or shore) or Crusair units, with remote evaporators. Crusair and rooftops can be run from an 2.5kw inverter, providing u have the alternator to keep your batteries up while ure going down the road. | ||
| Mallie (208.165.105.109)
Rating: N/A |
The cost of R12 is prohibitive. There are some alternative blend refrigerants, but not much success long term. The road air can be converted to 134a, but it is necessary to replace the hoses, oil etc. The change over results are mixed. I have a friend who has done it with success. If you want, holler and I will look up his address. The road air is 8 tons, and the roof air is 1ton. Whether you need the 8 tons or not may depend on how well it is insulated. If you are driving into the sun in south Texas in July, no matter how much insulation, the roof air blowing on the back of you neck will not seem like enough. You might consider installing an auxiliary, bus engine driven unit to cool the driver. Good Luck, Mallie | ||
| sancarlos (205.188.193.28)
Rating: N/A |
I have a 4104 the genset is a 2/53 detroit and also runs a hydraulic pump I have a hydraulic motor running an A/C compressor with R134a really keeps it cool. | ||
| Steve Fessenden (208.230.117.50)
Rating: N/A |
Before you junk your R12 systems because of the cost of R12: There is a new replacement, freeze 12 which is a direct replacement and available to the public. It apparently started in Florida. Was available in Indiana in 30 1b containers but not in 12 oz can s. A 12 0z can is $7.95 in Florida. I've seen mechanics that don't jump on most bandwagons using this. It is still illegal to mix Freeze 12 and R12. Steve Fessenden | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior) (64.12.102.33)
Rating: N/A |
Ok, here's one from a coach air supporter. Nothing will beat the stock system in its ability to pull down the temperature of a coach left sitting in the parking lot all day. As mentioned earlier, you get to keep the driver's AC too, which is nice when the sun is shining in on you. Lots of fresh air is pulled in by the stock air comfort system, versus none by a roof air. You also get the benefit of the heating, if you stray up-country in the cooler months. You are stuck keeping the duct work, but that's just a design thing. Chew the back corner out of the cabinets. I must note that making the choice to keep the coach heat/air is a lot easier if it is working, or is relatively cheap to repair. So, I would recommend: 1) Find an AC guy to work on your coach directly, not at some shop. 2) identify where it is leaking. (Nitrogen is cheap) 3) if you are still in budget, repair it. 4) look for other busnuts who have spare parts from their choice to remove their AC 5) price the bits to convert to R-134a. Remember, you will not be close to home when it fails (Murphy or one of his buddies and their laws) and NO ONE will work on whatever cocktail you have in there. The pros are NOT using any of that pretend R-12 crap in a system that they care about. Put in R-134a and anyone, anywhere, can and will service it for you, including the corner garage, as long as you show him where to hook up. As for efficiency loss between R-12 and R-134a? Even if it gets up to 15% or 20% loss, the stock system was to keep 47 people cool. None of us will notice the loss. Conversion parts (hoses/dryer) from MCI to do an R-12 MC5,7,8 & 9, runs under US$400, plus two gallons of the ester oil. R-134a is not expensive, US$150 or so for a bus fill. Mine took a day to change over the hoses/dryer, change out a rotten condenser, evacuate, drain and fill with new oil twice, and pressure test. The time is in pressure testing and waiting for the vacuum pump to empty that big system. Another busnut friend had sold me all his bits and pieces for a reasonable cost, so those of you who are ripping out, go easy, and you can sell that stuff to someone!!!! Paid the AC guy some cash, and got an excellent lesson in AC work at the same time. Work all done where the coach is parked. In the end, whatever you do, be happy with the decision, because it's YOUR BUS! We don't count. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Businjay (205.188.192.53)
Rating: N/A |
My local transit authority used freeze 12 in all its older buses. 69-86 MCI's and in about 600 85-87 Neoplans. all of them i'v had and worked on worked well air got nice and cold. i'v asked several shops around here about it and they all say they like it. just my two cents worth. Businjay | ||
| FAST FRED (63.215.236.221) Rating: N/A |
ANYONE that needs the evaporator , condenser, or compressor from a 4106 FOR FREE , Come on by in Middletown CT and get it. Was running when removed , sealed on removal. A basement does the same job and can be replaced with new for the cost of servicing a coach unit. FAST FRED | ||
| Dale Stuart (Dbstuart) (63.28.242.154)
Rating: N/A |
Just had my GMC 4905 Trane 3 cylinder system repaired and put in service. Had 2 leaks and had to off load the freon once to repair the second small leak on the sight glass. Just 2 loads of nitrogen and 20 lbs of R-22 freon and the it cools great!! Did have difficulty getting information on whether the system was R-12 or 22. The cost of the R-22 was $5.50 Lb. a little more than I expected but we only used 20 lbs. on an empty system. This was well worth putting back in service even though I have removed all of the original ducting and will have to fab. new ducting system. The total cost was just over $200 to repair and refill!!!! It would take 3 or more roof airs and a large enough generator to run them all to cool as well. I think we will save the roof tops for parking with elec. hook ups for now. If you have a serviceable system it will work the best for traveling down the road, if ours had been R-12 we may have considered conversion to R-134a or just junking it. Dale B. http://gmc4905busnut.homestead.com/homepage.html | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (12.146.32.12)
Rating: N/A |
Fast Fred, I had trouble figuring out how to get some air flow from outside while on the road without running the driver's fan; that seems to heat the area no matter which settings I used. Isn't there some way to get fresh unheated air from outside while going down the road? We have only the driver's and part of the original coach heat; the A/C has been removed. Also, could you point me to some info on the basement A/C setups? Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 | ||
| FAST FRED (63.215.227.249) Rating: N/A |
There should be a valve to controll the temp to the driver next to the throttle. Lift for cool , push for heat in defroster?or reverse? The replacement valve is only $12.00 or so from Mohawk .You can then use the foward drivers vent stuff , and its cool when the valve is closed.. WE cut into the coach wall behind the drilled holes for air pickup on the inside side.About 3rd row of seats. There I installed a box heater, and wired it to old blower power supply ( now always hot} and used the same valve with a aircraft style choke cable.( has friction grip , doesnt change position} Now the bride is master of her fate , can operate 3 speed blower and finely adjust temp to her delight. WE can also operate blower in campground and have slow air change (fairly silent}. Everything you need to be comfortable is there!!! it only needs to be re,done for the new service, camper , not 41 pax bus. FAST FRED | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (12.146.32.12)
Rating: N/A |
Fast Fred, how can I find info on the basement systems that you mentioned in your post about the coach A/C system parts that you have to give away. It sounds pretty good to me. I thought about trying to replace the coach A/C, but I would be surprised if it was practical. Thanks. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 | ||
| FAST FRED (63.215.230.239) Rating: N/A |
There are only 2 Mfg of the basement air cond. Call BOTH for their insatalation manual and see which will work better in the space you have. There is very little difference between them , mostly in how the ducting goes for the supply and NECESSARY return air. The heat pump option , if offered , is OK if you dont mind that it wont work below 35 or 40F and that cooling is poorer by 10 to 15%. Mild weather folks can get by with this , Texas folks cant, afford to loose any bit of cooling. FAST FRED | ||
| Steve Fessenden (63.27.88.199)
Rating: N/A |
I saw one bus with a professional conversion where they used the another Trane AC compressor like that is used for bus air, valved in parallel with the bus air and ran it with a 220 volt motor. He has to run his generator in most RV parks. I wouldn't do it but it has been done. Steve Fessenden | ||
| C. Ray Powell (Raypowell) (152.163.197.198)
Rating: N/A |
Tom for some basement air info go to www.airxcel.com. I just bought a heat pump basement air from ron the bus nut. Gonna install in a MCI 5C C. Ray | ||
| Jim Stacy (12.87.108.116)
Rating: N/A |
Another view: Roof airs are the most efficient because the hot air naturally rises to the unit and the cool air falls. Great air flow with NO ducting and nothing filling up the bay. You need a system to work when you are parked. The roof airs (or bay mounted) will work on the road as well as parked with a gen set or good inverter. Don't spend a lot to maintain a redundant system that is the single most expensive service problem in a commercial coach. FWIW Jim Stacy | ||
| Jim-Bob (205.188.192.158)
Rating: N/A |
Fast Fred: If the AC components are the same config. as those on a 4905 I would like to get them from you. Is it possible for you to drag them to Ortona with you in the fall & I can get them from you there? I'm in WPB but I routinely go around the South part of the state for my job. Contact me off board by e-mail if you want. jimw@nor thern-lights.com or pd41 044039@ aol.com (Delete the spaces). | ||
| FAST FRED (63.215.236.210) Rating: N/A |
IF YOU can find out if they are the same , I will try to grag just the comprerssor south. I have already given the fan pump and hyd motor to an Eagle guy who was trying to use them to cool his beast. The brides books and tubs of yarn , for her knitting books , takes priority , in filling the bays. Even with EMPTY bays , we come south full to the brim inside and under. Anyone else going south that might help this fellow? From Middletown CT to West Palm? FAST FRED | ||
| jim Wilke (199.181.167.68) Rating: N/A |
Actually Fred, after I posted to you, I realized that all I really need is the compressor and the compressor driveshaft if you have it. My system is there but the comp's locked up & shaft is removed. | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (12.146.32.12)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks for the help on the source for basement A/C suppliers, C. Ray Powell. I Checked the Airexcell site, and I'll check Ron The Busnut's site. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 |
