| Author |
Message |
Michael Lewis (67.160.12.18)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 1:29 pm: | |
While power washing the engine this weekend I discovered that the pipe and flex from the turbo to the muffler was completely un-attached.
I was fortunate to find a turbo tech guide online which convinces me that the turbo on this bus may not be bad, as we were told by the dealer. Smoke and oil can mean many things.
I am guessing that the cast elbow which attaches to the exhaust end of the turbo may be held by a rubber sleeve similar to the center section, but cannot find information to verify this in either my DD or service manual. Can someone with a similar bus give me an idea or, better yet, a picture of this connection?
Luke..do you have this part?
Hoping this and some tires will get us to Bus N USA, and it's coming up _SOON_!
I would rather camp in my bus than show up in shame in my Tahoe....
Michael Lewis
Seattle |
Jimmci9 (209.240.205.68)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 2:29 pm: | |
there should be a "flange" on the end of the exhaust pipe where it attaches to the "hot" end of the turbo... then a "band" clamp of sorts holds the exhaust pipe flange to the mating turbo flange....if the clamp is missing or broken, the exhaust piping will fall away from the turbo... heavy truck parts vendors that carry donaldson mufflers and piping should/will have replacement parts also....the exhaust system (past the turbo) is not a genuine detroit part...you may have to take measurements, to match the radius of the "ell"...the diameter of the exhaust pipe, etc... |
bowlingshoegiverouter (65.179.208.11)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 2:52 pm: | |
get dia. of exhaust & try a muffler shop,they should be able to bend what you need,get them to bend two...same price (about) |
Bob Damm (216.134.164.70)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 4:36 pm: | |
I looked at this bus shortly before you did, and was told that the turbo needed to be fixed or it could cause a runaway. So just make really really sure that it isn't leaking oil first. |
Michael Lewis (67.160.12.18)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 7:37 pm: | |
Bob, I don't know what you mean by a "runaway". Can you explain? Either way, they have now offered to fix the problem for me.
Michael |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (65.74.65.65)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 10:32 pm: | |
Michael, if lube oil from bad turbo seals enters the intake air in any quantity, the engine is liable start acting as though you are feeding it fuel. If that happens, it will be difficult to control and difficult to shut down.
If the engine gets enough oil to take off, you will have a runaway. Imagine this happening on a long downgrade. You should make sure that you know how to get it stopped if that should happen.
I cleaned an air filter on an old Mercedes with paint thinner one time and didn't let it dry completely before I went to install it while the engine was running.
You should have heard that engine talk to me!
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |
S.M. Heath (66.82.50.1)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2004 - 10:46 pm: | |
Michael, "runaway" (as I know it) is caused by enough Motor Oil Breaching rings,valve seats, seals, turbo, gasket/s, ecct., To maintain ("CI") Cumbustion With enough Volume for Diesel Engines to Race beond RED-LINE! I had that happen in a VW Rabit. There was only one way that I could Shut Off the Engine. That was to Imedatly Depress Clutch Pedal & pull-over (Keeping it IN Gear!) To A DEAD-STOP then Pushing the Brake-Pedal(& HOLDING) Hard, Then Easeing Clutch-Pedal Out to Stop "RUN-AWAY". Bad Clutch, No place to Emidatly (& safely)Pull off of Road or automatic Trans.,Or Brake problems =Ruined Engine(Minimal)+ Potental for Catostrophic results!. There may be enough Brake Power in most siduations even with an Automatic, But I wold not like to be near GVWR & Towing near Max. w/o Brakes on Either trailer(or "Toad") Going down long grade allredy haveing sugnificantly heated Brake Lineings!!! Also: Turning Off Ignition Switch DOSEN'T WORK! (That was what clued me ino "RUNAWAY" in VW!). Deffinitly Prevent Runaway Eng. in Your Bus!. Best of Luck to you with that Turbo. |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.40.153.206)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2004 - 8:27 am: | |
If you have ever heard a DD 'run away' it is a ROAR you will never forget. Sends chills just thinking about it. If there is a question that the turbo might have bad seals, you should have it looked at by someone competent.
Brian |
Bob Damm (216.134.164.158)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 5:11 pm: | |
What was the salesmans name up there, Jim I think? Anyway when he was telling me about the bad turbo he said a guy he knew had one run away and it went to over 9,000 RPM before it self destructed.
The non turbo engines have an emergency shutoff switch which shuts a damper on the air intake to shut off the air. The turbo models don't have this switch, aparently because the engine will just suck in the valve plate and turbo parts with it, at least that is what I was told. |
Lee Bradley (140.178.68.172)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2004 - 5:43 pm: | |
and I heard they dropped the 'plates' because the vacuum would pull the blower seals out and then the engine would continue the runaway on crankcase oil. |
busone (4.4.12.34)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2004 - 12:53 am: | |
Would it be possible to rig up a CO2 or halon fire extinguisher to kill the engine if it were to runaway? I was thinking of mounting the fire extinguisher in the engine room and could have a solenoid that would release the gas. This is just an idea I have been toying with. |
Greg Coffin (207.189.221.148)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2004 - 11:24 am: | |
Yes, I think it would be fairly simple to rig up a CO2/inert gas shut down system. I've heard that CO2 is not necessarily a good choice for choking off an engine because of the intense cold that is generated when CO2 expands - might cause stress fractures somewhere when it contacts hot engine parts - at least that's the assumption.
If it were me I'd attach the gas output as far away from the engine as possible, to give whatever gas as much time as possible to warm up, especially if I had a turbo - you don't want that thing fragging into the engine.
With that in mind, compressed nitrogen might be better. Paint-ballers use it in the winter because it does not generate as much cold when it expands. I don't know how cold Halon gets when it expands. It's more expensive than CO2 and nitrogen, but when you really need it, who cares. Compressed helium would work as well - and it stays relatively warm. Whatever you use, get a big enough tank to make sure engine comes to a complete stop (from 9000RPM? - Yikes!)
You could use an off-the-shelf restaurant hood CO2 extinguisher system for the control hardware. They are tried and true. However they usually operate on 120V AC, so you might need to change out the solenoid. The actuator buttons I've seen have a pull pin like a fire extinguisher, then you hit the button. Probably a good idea to mount another button in the engine bay.
Hope this helps.
Greg |
busone (4.4.12.34)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2004 - 4:58 pm: | |
I was thinking about mounting the tank in a bay close to the driver area. I would run a copper line to the engine compartment to help the gas warm up better. The restraunt system is a good idea I never thought of it. I will have to take a look at some restraunt systsms. |