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Greg Coffin (207.189.221.28)

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Posted on Friday, July 30, 2004 - 8:39 pm:   

I'm looking for alternatives to roof AC units. I don't have a bus YET, but hopefully that will change in the next year or so (I'm looking at 4106s and MCI 5s). I plan to use a Webasto for radiant floor heating, so there will have to be ducting installed. What have people found to be effective? I've also seen residential AC units designed for old house installations that uses 2" hose (looks like vacuum cleaner hose). Has anyone used something like this?
Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81)

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Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2004 - 8:19 pm:   

Greg,

You're on the first step of a long multi-phased or faceted journey.

I like your approach, I'm on the same path with the Webasto, except the radiant heating in the floor approach. If you investigate HVAC systems you'll find both simple and complicated setups, either can work well or poor, that's why you need to eddycate yourself (a little) about these systems. Try talking to a technician in the trade, a mechanical engineer or investigating the archives of this BB.

Right off I'd like to point out that RV heating systems are designed for higher internal drag or resistance in the system, done so because of the space premium. Residential systems will be rated at and require about 1/2 the drag or resistance (mostly obtained thru larger duct sizes) At the same time, cooling ducts have to be larger to flow more air cuz the "Delta T" (temp difference) between ambient and chilled air is less than the difference with heated air. It's all a matter of the amount of "mass" you can flow, equivalent to # of ice for a "Flintstones" type air conditioner

Fast Fred advocates long stretches of "baseboard tube" heating because you avoid the high energy loads required by distribution fans. I can see where the same thing could work for cooling coils, but here's a few test questions: which would you locate low in the living quarters and which high?

If you use ducting where would you tend to locate intake and where supply?

All this bus converting stuff can be summarized by two phrases, "plan, plan and plan", in conjunction with "measure twice, cut once"

The Bus BB's are a mutual benefit society. aimed at reducing cost, time and waste. They can be pretty beneficial in that regard by alerting you to important points and serving as a resource if you're having difficulty getting through a point.

You're going to learn alot, which will help keep you mentally young. Have fun!

Onward and Upward

Marc Bourget
TWO DOGS (4.226.105.157)

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Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2004 - 8:48 pm:   

main thing you need to remember...original bus air was 90,000 btu....10,000 ain't gonna do...
Petere (200.79.147.241)

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Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 9:26 am:   

TD: 90,000 btu is needed to cool off 50 people and the heat they make, we don't need that much, 30k would seem enough
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.38.242)

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Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 7:55 pm:   

Actually, about 3 ton (36000) seems to be the figure I come up with whenever I take the time to run heat load calculations, which can get very complicated with all the variables encountered with a mobile system. My 10 ton system in the Neoplan un-loads to 3.3 ton and even then it will cycle the compressor off occasionally while parked in 105 degree ambient, holding 76-78 inside. I have reduced the fresh air intake to abt. 10% and eliminated re-heat, either one of which may account for the occasional cycling.
John that newguy (199.232.240.62)

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Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 10:08 pm:   

Try these:

http://www.dcairco.com/

http://www.welchindustries.com/auxacsys.html
Greg Coffin (207.189.221.79)

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Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 11:08 pm:   

Thanks everyone, I'm glad there are some good alternatives to roof air units. Time to do my homework!
TomC (66.218.33.156)

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Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 1:39 am:   

Check out WWW.Tundra.CC for true mobil made mini split systems. They're made for big trucks-so should hold up for years in a bus. TomC

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