| Author | Message | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.110) Rating: |
I'm now in the process of yanking the luggage rack(s) out. I found one wire feeds the side center marker light and the *&^% wire runs through the luggage rack. Well...OK. I can deal with it, but what other wires are in that harness that must remain? I'm going to look over the schematics, but if anyone has the answer, it'll save me a ton of reading. I just don't want to chop away in my frenzy and hate myself in the morning (again). Also, is it safe to assume the driver's side is the same? Thanks in advance! | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.115)
Rating: N/A |
I've only done the RR one - there was a terminal block at the junction of the front one and the rear. I simply unscrewed all the wire connectors from that and that was that. If I remember, it was _inside_ the channel which is up against the wall. So you need to remove the plexi cover to that one. Seems like I removed a few of the reading lites (which simply unplug) before I realized I didn't have to. Now not having done the front racks yet I don't know what is up there, but I'll bet there's another terminal block inside the channel. Or maybe it's the same one that's between the two. I don't think you'll actually have to get violent with wire cutters. I wasn't _sure_ that I wanted to be doing what I was doing when I removed my one 'quarter' so tried to be as 'non-impactful' to the integrity of the orginal design in case I had to do an 'undo'. In fact, I'm that way on just about everything on that coach. I'm _real_ skeered to start cutting holes in the bay floor for hookup connections!  So bottom line, all the wires can stay _with_ the removed rack. They just have to be unhooked at the coach wall. | ||
| Steve Gibbs (12.7.5.94)
Rating: N/A |
John, The center marker light is the only wire that must be replaced. The rear lights come up from the rear junction box. Chuck is right. Remove the harness completely back to the front junction box and you will gain some wire chase space in the column in front of the driver's window. Good Luck, Steve MC-9 Formerly Pontiac; now on the road full time in the Bus | ||
| ralph7 (208.171.8.42) Rating: N/A |
Make certain you TURN OFF master battery switch! As you remove the fromt luggage rack remove the screws that hold the wire junction bords and take the nuts off and remove wires, the clearence lights were not on these blocks on my mc8. Also the bathroom has a hot wire. I took my roof out and tossed the floresents also the wireing. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.110) Rating: N/A |
HAHA.... Hey ChuckMC9, I'm exactly the same way. I must have stared at it for three days before I carefully took apart the light shield at the wall side of the rack and managed to find the connection blocks.. Three of them on each side in the front. I didn't find any at the right rear, so your experience puzzles me. I exposed the front right (and left) terminal blocks and the wiring harness that's connected to it. But one harness goes through the luggage rack and will have to be rewired if I take the rack down. So far, I've found only one of the wires are needed, That wire goes to the right side center marker. All the rest don't seem to feed anything except coach accessories, like bells, reading lights, speakers, etc. But I don't know for sure and I hate to think of having to unwire the blocks on both sides and rewire it all again, if I don't even need those wires. I kept pondering about this whole thing. As I carefully unbolted and unscrewed one piece, I kept thinking "what if I want to sell it back to the guy to be used as a bus again". "Once I tear it apart, it isn't going to be worth a damn as anything but conversion material". Yeah, you know the words and I was happy to read that. If it's any comfort to you, I got 11 tons more incentive to tear at it, after I titled it, registered it and insured it as a "motorcoach" here in Florida this afternoon. In fact, I just got back from going for a ride and filling the tank. $156.90 and worth every pen... what am I saying.... ahh, but it needs fuel, so I filled it. I got back and told myself what I had to hear: I just titled it and registered it as a motorhome (motorcoach in Fl, if three axle). Once I did that, it'd be near impossible to redo the paperwork to make it a "bus" again capable of carrying passengers. It'd have to undergo inspections, etc and I doubt anyone would want to be bothered. So... I have nothing to lose by taking it apart. In fact, now that it's legally a "motorhome", I should be able to sell it easier if I decide to. The buyer wouldn't have to worry about his state's requirements, since he'd be registering a motorhome, not trying to call a bus a motorhome... right? I love Florida! Ok... back to that harness. Without more info, I may carefully rewire that whole mess and let it hang until the rack is out. It'll take me a few hours extra, but I would hate to have to trace those wires later after I chop 'em. Open to more suggestions, as always! (thanks again) | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.110) Rating: N/A |
Hey! One wire to that side marker!! Great guys! That's what I was hoping for. I'll yank 'em all tomorrow and get back to tearing out that rack. I didn't notice any block at the rear inside, is there one someplace that feeds the rear lights I should be careful of, or am I misunderstanding? I may try to take that rack out in two sections (front and rear). It looks like it'd slide out through the window easy enough and I can cut it up to fit in the dumpster outside. I just don't want any wiring surprises if I can help it. It's things like that, that can really slow things down! Thanks again for the input. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.144)
Rating: N/A |
Well, I didn't say that in perhaps the clearest way. I said: there was a terminal block at the junction of the front one and the rear I meant to say: ...there was a terminal block at the point where the front rack SECTION joins the rear rack in the middle of the coach. And yes, I forgot about the one wire that goes to the marker. Had to reluctantly take the dikes to that one, but I rejoined that wire immediately, lest I forget about it. And buddy, the thoughts that went thru your head about 'backing out' of the conversion process mirrored mine almost exactly!!! Whew, this is like an online therapy session. What is this, the Dr. Phil show??? Hahahohoheehee... And also, to clarify about the sections. You do each section (each of the FOUR) one at a time. I wouldn't dream of trying to do an entire side at once. And you don't have to YANK any wires. Just unscrew them from the terminals. You'll feel better that way!  And the sections are much heavier than you would imagine. Not unmanageable, but be ready when those last few screws are removed. I worked from the center and when there were only a few left on each end, seems like I then put one of the hanger bolts back in on each end (of the SECTION) to act as the strong support while undoing the other end of the section. So the last two bolts to go were very lightly screwed in hanger bolts. Hope that makes sense. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Guys, guess what I was doing this afternoon? Removing the passenger side luggage rack! I got the numbered tape used by electricians to identify wires. Do a small diagram of the wire to the junction block, tape your numbers and detach away! Remeber, there's no problem so great or difficult that it cannot be resolved by brute strength and ignorance alone! PS, some of the wires already had the metal number tags for circuit identification. I just added my own numbers. PSS: Thanks, gumpy for your site and pics! Onward and Upward. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.78) Rating: N/A |
Hey Chuckmc9: Yeah, that made a lot more sense! I'm going to take the light shields off and look for that second block and remove the wires to that, also. I'd have to cut them anyway, to pull the front 1/2 from the rear. I did note that there are no wires at all leaving the rack at the rear of the bus. So aside from neatness, I guess that entire harness is for the rack alone (with exception of that single wire feeding the outside marker light). It was difficult to imagine why such a major harness and connection block configuration would be needed for each side, just to supply passengers with some light and a method of signaling the driver. We never paid attention to the bell anyway; usually turned it off. And we took the bulbs out of the first two rows because it'd glare in the windshield at night. The MCI engineer's work was all in vain. I tossed out a bag of plastic pieces and damaged parts so reluctantly yesterday, as if I might need them or have to replace them when I make it a bus again. Yeah.... you're not nuts. Or if you are, so am I. Maybe a few others, too. Mac: I thought about numbering the already numbered wires, then decided to ask about all this. I knew the wires didn't exit the rear of the rack, but I was afraid they might exit through the wall and feed something I couldn't see. Now (since I have been assured only one wire is really needed out of the 80 or so), I'll forget about the duct tape and being too neat and cautious and I'll get rid of the mess ASAP. I'm like you Mac, and I have a feeling most of us crayon between the same lines. We're too cautious when it's something we don't know about; It's the little things that manage to stop us in our tracks. That's the great part about this forum I@N provides..... There's always someone here that's "been there; done that" and is willing to share that experience. It saves us time and helps straighten that learning curve. Thanks for the input! now..... back to work. | ||
| John the newguy (199.232.240.78) Rating: N/A |
Hey Chuckmc9: You mentioned cutting holes in the bay floor? Wazzat all 'bout? If for electric, water and sewage hookups, it could be done in the same manner as the stick & staple style. Small compartment doors placed in inconspicuous areas? I'd almost prefer to leave a bay door partially open (locked with a chain in a partially open position?) and the lines, hoses, etc sneaking through the opening. I've seen RVs with connectors and no doors, for all wiring and hoses, also. No fuss or bother and as aesthetically pleasing as the doors. Like you chuckmc9, I hate to go cutting holes where I rather not have to. I'd explore all the alternatives first. And I -do not- want to go cutting the bay floors (or the roof), if possible. Besides, my "finished" auto body work resembles an ongoing tragic accident. With the miniscule perfected ability I have in any area (hardly discernable to the naked eye).... body work -is not- one. | ||
| Michael Lewis (67.160.12.18)
Rating: N/A |
There also is a 110V circuit in the loom which feeds the utility outlet up in the drivers side rack, about half way down the coach. It connects to the totally trashed box directly under the drivers floor. We chose to keep this circuit and run it in a new soffit/chase as an alternate 110V source. It will save dragging around our heavy 50A cord when plugging in at the house. We will modify a heavy duty extension cord to adapt to the existing exterior plug-in at the front of the coach. We also kept one run of 24V for a lighting circuit. This will switch at the entry and light a few fixtures along the floor in cabinet bases. Michael | ||
| Michael Lewis (67.160.12.18)
Rating: N/A |
BTW, you might want to also reconsider tossing those luggage racks in the dumpster. They are "high grade" extruded aluminum which brings a pretty nice price at the recycler. Remove anything which a magnet will stick to, as the recycler will look for the smallest thing to downgrade your load to "dirty". Same with the stainless steel. Our first recycle run netted close to $200.00, well needed and well used. Heavy aluminum=dollars for bus. Good thing. Michael | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.130) Rating: N/A |
Yeah, real "good thing", Mike! I was going to cut it into small pieces and toss it in the dumpster, but you've given me reason to reconsider. I haven't found any 110v in this bus at all, so far. I'll have to look again, but so far it's been 24 and 12. There's been a 12v mod for the TVs and headlights, but the headlights do not appear to have been according to specs. They take an awful long time to light up and/or change from high to low and are more dim than I would like. Thanks for the "heads-up" regarding the aluminum. I'll check today and see what they're paying. I'll just have the racks, and the stainless from the bathroom, but anything that helps defray overall costs is a big plus! | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.138) Rating: N/A |
Here in Florida. the local and largest recycler pays: 40 cents per lb for "clean" aluminum 20 cents per lb for "dirty" aluminum. Stainless steel brings about 07 per lb I don't know how much it will all weigh out to, but I'll have to deliver it to the recycler and unload it myself. I'll also have to take out every last screw to get the top price. Some of those screws are breaking at their heads as I try to remove them. I'd hate to waste time having to drill the broken ones out. The suggestion was good, Marc, but I don't know if I'll have enough "recyclable" to make it worthwhile from the type job I'm doing. From what I see in the racks, I'm wondering if there's as much as a total of a hundred pounds of aluminum. That'd only be about $40 bucks worth. But even for twice that, I'll spend $10-$20 for fuel for the drive to and back. All things to consider with as small an amount as I'll have. I may just toss it and save time.... | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.144)
Rating: N/A |
Only some coaches had 120 for 'in-station' power. There's an external AC connector below the drivers window if you have it, if not, you don't. It was an option on this model. Man, I'm almost sounding like I know what I'm talking about - can't hold a candle to those more experienced. Guess they're letting the 'tenderfoots' handle all the lightweight issues! That's ok. I'll pay my dues... | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.170) Rating: N/A |
Hey Chuckmc9... How'd you get the frozen screws out? Grinder or air chisel? | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.91)
Rating: N/A |
 Hee hee! Seriously! I keep hearing horror stories about stuck gunk frozen screws but haven't found one yet that can't be gotten loose with a little determination and the right screwdriver size. It was probably #2, and once loose used an electric drill w/tip for speediness. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.170) Rating: N/A |
AAARRRAAAAGGGHHHhh (I hate that) I'm going to run down to Sears tomorrow and buy their screw-out set. Oh, and a few diamond cutting disks from Harbour Freight. I'll get these *&%^$###** out if it's the last thing I do. Maybe I'll buy one O'dem fancy-dan screwdrivers, like you got. HaH. Thanks! I needed that. I'll let you know tmw. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.176) Rating: N/A |
Chuckmc9.. How heavy is 1/2 of that rack? I'm ready to drop the front 1/2 and don't know if I oughta' ask for help or not. Or if I oughta' do it "Gumpy's" way and dismantle the rail from the rest. I had to grind the screw heads off quite a few of those in the front 1/2 and it's looking like I'll have to do the same with most of those in the rear 1/2 also. You're fortunate if you didn't have to do any grinding. Oh, and don't bother to buy the Sears screw remover set/ I'm bringing -that- back tomorrow. It's a waste of $20.00. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.91)
Rating: N/A |
I'm not very good with knowing what something weighs, - and - I never picked up the entire thing at once. I lowered one end (of the _quarter_section_) onto a stool, (or maybe it was a ladder) while the other end was still connected by that last bracket bolt. Then undid the last bolt at the other end and lowered that end. Then I _slid_ the whole thing carefully out the window, with a tall structure outside that was there to receive the end that came out first. Then, while leaving the last foot resting on the windowsill, went outside and slid it all the way out the window. Then lowered it to the ground in a similar fashion. Like mentioned, a helper would make it a piece of cake. Once you had all bolts but two removed, you and he could get it outside in five minutes. It took me maybe 20, being very cautious. (from the time there were just the two bolts left) That said, I'd wild guess about 50-80 lbs? It's hard for me to compare, to say, a battery since the weight is very different than a chunk of weight. Am not sure any of that made sense. Just don't make any sudden moves and don't twist in a way that is horribly unnatural. (like we all haven't done that already many times! ;) | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.26) Rating: N/A |
Stool or ladder? If it's heavier than I thought while I do this alone, I'm gonna have stools all over the place..... Loose, wet ones. I guess I'll make some supports, just in case. I think a couple 4' ladders and a few 2x4s should put it at about the right height. Once it's free from it's bolts, I should be able to tell if I'll be passing stools. (Maybe I should have done this "Gumpy's" way..........?) http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Structural/Luggage_Rack_Removal/luggage_rack_removal.htm | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.238)
Rating: N/A |
I CAN'T believe I'm saying this: You're worrying too much! I've read that some wish they'd done this before removing all the seats so it would have a resting place, but failing that, worst case, it comes crashing to the floor...as long as none of yours or others' appendages are in the way! This is _really_ not that bad of a project. Don't spend the time 'making' anything, just throw some stuff underneath each end and you'll be fine. The main thing I wanted to prevent with the supports was denting the ceiling by the still-attached end if the loose end came crashing down at a way-steep angle. Get it done by noon today. That's your assignment! Good luck! | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.26) Rating: N/A |
Yeah. A "nooner". I -could- use one. I wasn't thinking of the ceiling, actually. I was worrying about breaking the windows if it tipped into one. Or, ripping the seat(s), since I have a chance to sell 'em. But you are (of course) right. I worry too much. I guess that's fairly common among us. I may do some more later today, or this evening. I have to bring the stupid Sears' screw-out device back and maybe buy one of those hand-held impact thingos. I have one someplace, but by the time I find it, the racks will have rotted out from age. I'll buy another one.... I'm trying to remember to take pictures as I go along. They might come in handy, along with my autopsy report. | ||
| Airless in Mississippi (68.243.223.232) Rating: N/A |
IT IS HEAVY>>> REMOVE BOLTS GET OUT OF WAY> LET IT FALL | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.238)
Rating: N/A |
John, I know *all* about running errands to the toy-stores like Sears, Harbor Frieight and the like to avoid bus projects that bother me, believe me. I didn't realize you still had the seats in - it's a piece of cake in that case. You can definitely hold up one end at a time (of the quarter-section) and then rest the whole thing on the seat backs. You don't need any additional support. OK, enough of this internet-thaing. I'm heading to the coach. It's only going to be 88 degrees today! | ||
| Michael ewis (67.160.12.18)
Rating: N/A |
If I had it to do again, I would simply take a sawzall and split the rack in two the length of the bus, before removing anything. The floor of the rack is thin and supported by the extruded rails. The rear brackets would be the only part which could not be cut in a straighforward manner. It will unbolt. I would then sawzall across at the seams into thirds, then remove the bolts from the diagonal stainless hangers and drop it in 1/6 segments. If I had it to do today, bet I could get the whole mess out in under an hour. Michael | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.28) Rating: N/A |
Hey Mike.... They say "Hinny-sight is 99% of total vision". The only thing stopping that plan that I can see, is that rail at the window side of the rack. There's no way of cutting that in two, without damaging the wall surface. Airless.... I may take the front 1/2 of this thing down this evening. You can probably hear my hernias pop from there. And Chuckmc9... Waddya' tryin' to say... that I'm a proconstipator? I brought that "screw-out" device back to Sears and bought a small hand-held impact hammer with a few phillips head drives. Bingo! I took out four screws with some modest persuasion and sweat. I'll make sure I pound every last screw first, before I attempt to remove more. That should save on the amount of grinding I'll have to do. I found that other connection block at the middle joint of the side rail. The wire's all out and saved.... Just in case I want to make this a bus again...... (Ahhhh HAR HAR) By the way..... out of curiosity.... did -your- wife make you sign a waiver that if anything happened, you wouldn't come back to life again as a busnut? Ok fellas'... back to work. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.234) Rating: N/A |
I'm pleased to say that the passenger side racks are now down and ready to toss out the window. They probably weigh about 100-150 lbs each 1/2 (front and rear). I don't know what they'd weigh after being stripped of the inserts, etc., but "Michael Lewis" might have a good suggestion regarding selling the aluminum. There may be about 400 lbs of "cleaned" aluminum and at .40 per lb it would certainly be worth the time to take out all the screws, etc. Oh, and mike.... your idea of cutting it up into "chunks" before taking it down might be my option too, if the seats weren't still in mine. Without the seats and the worry of really messing them up, it'd be a whole lot faster to just hack the outer rail and everything up to the wall, in chunks, and take out the wall rail later. The only advantage to the "all at once" approach, is that the entire mass (1/2 section) allows the benefit of it's weight to help pull it down and away. I did saw through the center where the front and rear sections or outer rail meet. It was easier than trying to pull the two sections apart, since the insert that holds them together is about 10" long and tough to slide from within it's mating surfaces. My advice to anyone considering the purchase of a bus to convert, would be to have the racks, seats and toilet removed as part of the purchase agreement. Thanks for all the input and help, guys! It's made this part of the job easier for me. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.238)
Rating: N/A |
Proconstipator NO MO! Yahoo! Good for you, John. I'm amazed that you estimate 2-3x the weight I guessed. Like I said, I ain't good with weights. Kinda like the joke about males that they can't measure anything. I'll bet ol' Two Dogs knows that one...;) If there's 400 lbs of 'clean' aluminum in all the racks in the coach, I'll buy you a cheap inverter. Let me know when you're back from the recycler. Not to say it's not worth it at all, ok? And back to a question you asked Thursday that I never got around to about holes in the bay floor, Eeeeewwwww, I don't like either of your ideas! Yuck! I'd rather punch a few holes in the bay floor than in the side for yucky RV connections! And ya still have to get the black hose out. Chaining the bay door partially open? How declass! To tell the truth, it sounds like something I'd do, but I've reached a level of disgustedness with some of my implementations that have caused me to pause just a bit and reconsider making an attempt at 'doing it right'. Not to worry - that feeling will pass shortly. Congrats, again. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.14) Rating: N/A |
Chuckmc9 - I don't know if the total stripped weight of the aluminum will work out to be sufficient to bother taking time with or not, either... yet. I may let you know when it's all out.. The problem I have regarding the salvageable materials is likely different than most others. The bus isn't located on my property, it's at a boat storage facility. The owner is a great guy and allows (most) work to be done there, but he doesn't want the place to look like a junk yard. He provides a dumpster and allows the use for that for near anything anyone desires to throw in. So, piles of discarded material left for days, is not a thing that he wants to see. We already talked about the salvage material....and he did mention recycling it for the $$$, but I'm not working as fast as I did when I was younger and the stuff may not be ready as fast as he feels it should be. It complicates the work to be done, when you don't have your own yard to work in. Holes in the bay floor? As much as I dislike the stick and staple RVs, I do appreciate some of the designing that has developed from years of their marketing. Our Georgie-Boy had a long flexible metal tube mounted within the chassis with an access door to it at the side rear. The waste hose slid inside that and was nicely hidden from view. Our Winnebago's city and fill water connections were mounted directly to the exterior side wall. No cover, and the fittings were hardly noticeable, especially with small rubber plugs in the end of the openings. There are also quick-connect connectors that would be as subtle. Some of the newer high-end RVs use a near flush marine type electrical connector for the 50amp supply. Looks nice and neat to me.. The sewage connection is tricky, but there's not much room under the bus when the air's out of the bags. Crushing the sewer hookup isn't the way I want to start my day if I can help it. I'm trying to work out a design that will provide the actual connection for the sewer hose to be on the outside of each side of the bus, next to the compartment that houses the tank. With no hose connected and the usual connection cover in place, it's not something that would detract from the overall appearance. It would put the waste connection(s) outside the wall, rather than to have to make the connection inside the bay and feed the hose out. An awful lot of road *&^% can fly up into any hole at the bottom of the bus. If I can avoid making any holes, I'll do what I can to avoid it. Sorry to ramble on here.... just idle thoughts over a coffee. Today...... the driver's side racks. (maybe) | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.4) Rating: N/A |
8/8/2004 pm and the wire harness and screws to the driver's side are done (took and hour) and the rack(s) are ready to be removed tomorrow. (after a few trips for parts and stuff) I will listen to "airless" and get some help getting them out of the coach. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
John If you cut them into lengths less than 8' you could store them in the bays until you accumulate enough to go to the recycler. I like the local recycler's there's always plenty of surplus things to tickle my imagination. Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.92)
Rating: N/A |
I store mine lengthwise under the coach for now - but it's only one quarter section. You *might* be able to fit all four under there but it would be tight. I just drive right over it - not noticeable and allows me to not deal with stuff like that right now. Keeps my membership in the Proconstipator's club active. ;) | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.116) Rating: N/A |
Marc - 8 foot lengths would be too long. I've got so much junk in the bays now, I don't think I can find the room even if I cut them to 4' lengths. Keep in mind, I have to keep all my tools in the bus. The bus is a garage too, for me. And Chuckmc9 - I wish I could store the surplus outside, but I'm limited here. I spent a total of an hour and half and now proud to say that both side racks are down and awaiting removal. I only had to grind three screws on the driver's side, all the rest came out fine (whoopie!) Now, if I can only get them out of the bus........ Tomorrow's another day - right chuckmc9? ***Proconstipator's meeting coming up, maybe soon.*** | ||
| Airless in Mississippi (68.243.214.44) Rating: N/A |
When you get ready to start removing the seats I would suggest air impact wrench with flex socket and a long extension. The bolts are tough to remove and a pain to put a socket on. They to are fairly heavy as a set and have to be "handled" to get out the door. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
John, Can't you open and prop open a side window sufficiently to get the pieces out? That's how I got mine outside. Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.24) Rating: N/A |
Marc- Yup, that's the way I planned to get each of the four sections out. I'm trying to find another couple of hands, though, rather than chance scratching the exterior by doing it all myself. Those damn long sections are tough to manage for one guy alone and I don't want to do anymore cutting inside the bus (I hope to sell the newly recovered seats soon). Airless- The bus op that originally was going to buy the seats (I waited too long to call and he bought from Ebay), was also going to take them out. A more local bus dealer said he's got a few possible buyers also (possibly himself) and they would also take them out if purchased. If all else fails, I have two guys here at the boat storage facility that offered to take the seats out and put them into a storage bin for me. (Not for free and I wouldn't let them do it for free, anyway. Helluva nice bunch of guys here). Since the seats were recovered fairly recently, all the bolts I tried were loose enough to remove; I hope they all will be that way. Now... if I can find someone that wants a nice stainless steel toilet... | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.228) Rating: N/A |
The luggage racks have left the bus. I started to disassemble the rails Ala'Gumpy, while they sat atop the seats, and tossed them out the front side window, when a guy asked me if I needed a hand. So we took the rest out whole and he's going to have a couple guys help him move them tomorrow to a spot he's been piling aluminum at. I imagine the total weight might have been around 500-700lbs. Cleaned, without panels, etc, maybe 300-500lbs? So at about 400lbs at .40 per lb, it'd have been worth $160.00. I could have used the $$$, but at a storage facility, a guy's limited in what he can do. I would recommend as "Michael Lewis" had, that some time taken to "clean" the discards and taking them to a recycling center, would help defray the cost of conversion. I would also agree with "Gumpy", with his suggestion to disassemble and strip the rails while up (in the bus) and take them out in pieces if you're going to do it alone. I did it alone, 1/2 of a side at a time and took them down as-is. But they're heavy at about 150(+) lbs each half. Care must be taken to avoid breaking windows, and it's hard to be careful when the thing's about to crush your head. All's well that end's well. The saga of the luggage racks has ended. Next, the seats. Then the dreaded toilet. It's funny to have read all about this stuff in previous posts through the year or so that I've been "lurking"... and now that I'm doing it myself, I feel I've already done it all before... Kinda' like Deja'Vu all over again. Thanks to -everyone- that's taken the time to type out their experiences! | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.141)
Rating: N/A |
After working on the coach all bloody day, I come home and read about fellows working on their coaches. Good grief, I should just rent a movie or something like normal folk. Anyway, congrats again John. You may have noticed that Gumpy also has great info on the loo removal. There's a trick about the tank that's not on his site so when you get ready give a holler. Seats are a cakewalk. one ea. 11/16" socket & box end. A couple of hours to unbolt, then maximum soreness post moveout if you do all 23 pairs in 1.5 hours like I did. |
