| Author | Message | ||
| Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
Registered Member Username: Fakeguy Post Number: 185 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 96.11.208.103  Rating: N/A |
Currently, my battery ground is on a bolt running through the body where it connects to the starter ground. The bolt runs through the body in front of the left rear wheel into the battery box where the cables are connected. Thus, the aluminum body serves as the ground. My question is if anyone has similar and if they have had any starting problems due to bad ground with a similar configuration: Or is a ground to the steel on the engine cradle, for example, a better idea. Just curious as to how others have grounding configured. BTW 2 12 VOLT batteries connected to one cable. Thanks in advance | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Registered Member Username: Pvcces Post Number: 1390 Registered: 5-2001 Posted From: 141.0.9.60 Rating: N/A |
Jim, we have our battery ground cable running directly to the ground post on the starter; if I recall right, there is a heavy jumper between the ground stud and the engine block, which is needed for the alternator output. If you use the body for a ground and the cable to the starter has a high resistance connection, starter current will take the easiest path to the starter. That will be through the axle and drive shaft. After some arc welding goes on in those components, you get to do some expensive repairs. That's the way that I see it. Tom Caffrey Pd4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1629 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.162.14  Rating: N/A |
The coach battery ground to the frame is a PM job. It should be bolted with COPPER bolts , nuts and washers , as iron, SS or even bronze do not have the ampacity of pure copper. Yes it has to be cleaned every 6 months or so due to the dissimilar metals. Not cleaning it can (will) cost the voltage regulator in time. (don't ask,) FF | ||
| Brian Evans (Bevans6)
Registered Member Username: Bevans6 Post Number: 109 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 67.71.38.16 Rating: N/A |
I never really thought about it before, but on my bus (MCI) the battery ground is to a large stud welded to the steel chassis tubes in the front battery compartment, and the engine ground is from the starter motor stud to a large stud (1/2" to be exact) welded to the engine support frame part of the chassis. So the ground path is through the steel part of the monocoque structure. Steel studs, not copper, fwiw. The alternator body is similarly grounded, but with smaller wire and stud size. FWIW, since I know there are differences between GM practice and MCI practice. Brian | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 487 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 173.166.209.1  Rating: N/A |
My 4104 still has the positive ground. Two 8-D batteries connected to a copper bolt in the aluminum body. Each battery has a cable connected to this bolt. The engine/cradle has a ground strap to the aluminum body to a bolt I assume is copper. I have often thought that a cable run between the two ground bolts may help for a better connection. But as I have never had a problem with these ground connections and the bus starts fairly easy I have not thought too hard on it. I do clean the ground connections at the bolt connected to the body in the battery bay about twice a year along with the other battery connections. . | ||
| Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
Registered Member Username: Fakeguy Post Number: 186 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 96.11.208.103 Rating: N/A |
Hey...thanks to all. I suspected that it would be a good idea to make a better ground set up and your responses verify my guess. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 1409 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 173.202.16.250  Rating: N/A |
The t5hing to note about your post is that the bolt goes "through" the bulkhead. This means the batt ground post is directly connected to the starter ground. All you need is to be sure the engine is grounded to the starter and I'm sure the starter mounting bolts do this very well. However, you do need a good body to engine ground somewhere to make all other stuff work well. If the bolt running through the bulkhead has clean contacts from the bolt nuts to the bulkhead you have that ground. I see no problem if this connection is clean. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 2173 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.89.179.225  Rating: N/A |
I am quite fond of the copper anti-seize as a treatment for my ground connections. Makes a mess, but there's little to no corrosion issues for a long, long time. Comes in plastic bottles with the brush built into the lid. Permatex is only one brand. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 728 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.13.120  Rating: N/A |
Buswarrior, I use anti sieze on cable connections as well. I did mine 11 years ago with no problems since. I also use a liquid product called Corrosion Block which I spray on the control wire terminal boards, etc. This stuff, designed for marine use, creeps into each connection & stays for nearly ever if not exposed to weather. They also make a Corrosion Block Grease which I use in light bulb sockets & plug connectors. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 709 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 76.4.16.189  Rating: N/A |
Jim Bob - I did a quick Google search; here's one thing I found: http://www.reddenmarine.com/marine-supplies.cfm/lubricants-corrosion-protection/corrosion- block-20012/corrosion-block-12-oz-aerosol.html It's probably possible to find a lower price, cheaper shipping near you, etc. but this is at least one availability point. HTH, BH NC USA | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 1001 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 72.211.145.15  Rating: |
MugShot of the usual suspect, after a bit of elbow grease & mouse milk  feel free to have a look here.. https://picasaweb.google.com/jackfids/4106Album#5534493304915817970 ...fwiw | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 1596 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 76.4.123.74  Rating: N/A |
BRAGGER!! NA NA NA NA Good job tho BRAGGERERT!! Gomer | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 729 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.13.120 Rating: N/A |
Bruce, here is a link to the product website: http://www.learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html It's not that expensive because you don't use a lot. They offer a non aerosol pump (plastic spray applicator with built in air pump) I like that cause I can refill it, see how much is in it and you never run out of propellant. I buy the stuff in the quart bottle which lasts years but also try to score some of the little free sample tubes & tiny bottles at boat shows, etc. | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 1002 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 72.211.145.15 Rating: N/A |
Gomer.... you're just jealous because my brass fasteners shine and they are larger than most...... not that they get used anymore or less than they used to ....I actually think you took money, from someone whose fasteners are smaller & not as shiney, to say that in public tho.... (I hope Les paid you in greenbacks & not maple leafs) | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 711 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 76.4.16.189 Rating: N/A |
Thanks, Jim. Appreciate it. Since our tea drinking cousins across the ocean apparently never heard of "bi-metallic corrosion" or thought of how to prevent it, I'm afraid that I'll need more than a little! I had noticed that the Redden Marine site shows different sizes and container styles. This sure looks like one of those "ounce of prevention" things that you're sure glad you took care of on dark rainy nights. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 1412 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 173.202.19.248 Rating: N/A |
Let's see, brass, steel, copper, Al and electricity! This should make a nice corrosion battery!! | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 592 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Maple leafs are at least "real" money, unlike some stuff that passes for and is called "money" | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 430 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213  Rating: N/A |
It never ceases to amaze me how I get into the middle of these things. Fids! Beware the Canadians are watching you! And no, If the whole world IS out to get you it is no longer JUST paranoia | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 712 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 76.4.16.189 Rating: N/A |
Gus, you just passed your test - you are now qualified to be a British vehicle engineer! | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 1413 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 173.202.24.101 Rating: N/A |
Bruce, I now own two British vehicles and owned another years ago but I never found such a mess as this. However, I have found some unique and interesting things with them!! Overall, though, I love them but am partially blind to their faults. | ||
| Dal Farnworth (Dallas)
Registered Member Username: Dallas Post Number: 813 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 75.91.200.113  Rating: N/A |
Gus, if you need it I think I have a spare bottle of Lucas Smoke around here somewhere. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 714 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 76.4.16.189 Rating: N/A |
Dal - all of us who have British vehicles have lots of that already. And plenty of leaks for it to get out. Gus - you know what I'm talking about. Working for two British vehicle manufacturers for 20 years was "character building". | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 1005 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 72.211.145.15 Rating: N/A |
A friend of mine once bought a Triumph TR-6. On the way home he had to stop for a traffic light. While he was there a large dog relieved himself on the rear tire. When the light turned green the entire Lucas electrical system failed & it needed to be towed back to the dealer...it was starting to smolder as the tow truck pulled away.... | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 1414 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 72.161.175.147 Rating: N/A |
Jack, That was because British cars have positive ground and the tires are conductive!! | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 1006 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 72.211.145.15 Rating: N/A |
...and that's because the engines they put in them was used to pulling plows thru gardens & not externally seamed small cars on Motorways... Funny the tires were conductive & not the wires from the Lucas Electrics..funny if you DINT own one ! |
