| Author |
Message |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 8:05 pm: | |
I have a 1964 Crown Highway Coach which has a dubious weatherproofing for the entry door hinge, (piano style), thereby allowing water, dirt etc thru the hinge to a vinyl flexible shield on the inside of the bus; thus, water runs down the hinge, the shield and jamb, onto the step at the bottom and, walla--stays there. There is a drip channel over the top of the door, but as I see it, it only adds to the overall problem by dumping water at the front edge of the door.
There must be a better way! I've considered removing all the rivets just ahead of the door, installing a curved aluminum shield, reverse of a drip rail, but that opens up potential new problems and might not solve the dilema.
Ideas or comments appreciated. Prefer not to build a new door, but may do so if some of you smart fellers and gals don't come up with something.
Thanx,
RCB |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 6:21 am: | |
IF your willing to re rivit the hinge , you could install a strip of neoprene behind , to keep the water out.
FAST FRED |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.15)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 8:02 pm: | |
Good Idea. Seems one would need to remove ALL rivets both on door side and front of the door.
I studied the thing again today and find no easy solution. The hinge is affixed to the door by large screws and can easily (???) be removed, Problem is the room between the door jamb and the door frame. Almost nil. How is yours done?
Thanx for the input, FF.
RCB |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.44)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 6:28 am: | |
Sorry , I have a GM 4106 that uses 2 hinges and a big seal strip , rather than a piano hinge.
But , they put the coach together , someone can repair it.
Might have to replace the screw heads with those that tighten with an Allen wrench , after you get it apart!
FAST FRED |
RCBishop (128.123.88.50)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 7:40 pm: | |
Your point well made...like the bus. I looked at the "screws" again today and they are actually Hex head sheet metal screws...would guess the head protrudes at least 3/16 of an inch. maybe a quarter. By using your suggestion I can pick up that much in a seal and that should do the trick.
Muchas Gracias, and if I don't "talk" with youse again before then, Merry Christmas. BTW, I don't think you ever answered a question I asked you two or three weeks ago ( tsch, shame!) Do you have all your plumbing and fixtures on one side of the bus?
Also, a "bilge pump"...will it move sewage or just
gray water?
Have a Flamingo Burrito for me.
RCB |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.88)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 6:09 am: | |
I am an origonal KISS converter,
I try to get as simple as can be done,
and would rather spend a month planning ,
and drawing schematics and sketches,
than realize years later ,
there was an even simpler way!!
After all I'm the guy that has to fix anything that goes wrong.
Sure all the water supply is on one side ,
and thats the side the black/grey tank is.
The FW tank is equal size on opposite side, with exposed supply pipe to assist in not freezing.
Only shower needs lift , everything else , including garbage disposer is gravity
That means less to have to heat , should the coach have to sit in freezing temps.
My bathroom door seperates the rest of the coach from the "need to heat" space , saving fuel.
Leave the door blocked open & only the rear section gets the heat.
ON the curb side is the 3/4 in. propane manifold.
All cut offs are easily reachable from the inside, the flex hose is the shortest the boat folks sell.
Front to rear, Suburban 42,000btu furnace
{ mounted inside a cabinet RV style}
4 burner range w/oven & broiler,
{Apt size only 20 in wide}
hookup for RV gas fridge ,
cat propane style heater ,
{to keep water system from freezing when coach is not occupied}.
There is a seperate propane line that runs to the OHNO 6KW, mounted in the old blower compartment.
The dual basement air cond is in the old condenser area , had a screened air inlet stock.
Thats it , but of course there is about 2000 hours of actual work , plus double that amount spent in contemplation.
FAST FRED |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.33)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 7:11 pm: | |
Well, that's pretty much the way I approach things. Do it right the first time. I've built and renovated a number of places in recent years with few regrets. This coach stuff is new to me, but seems one can approach it in pretty much the same way...PRACTICALLY.
And your labor time is about where I came in in planning. But, of course, I'm just getting started. Can't work on it more than a couple hours a day, but as the weather allows, that will pick up soon. We have really cool am's and right now, warm pm's.
The reason for the question on whether you had all plumbing on one side.....getting the piping to the other side. Do you run it overhead or around the end or???
My coach is 73 inches floor to ceiling so not much play for an overhead chase. And I don't want to go under because it is ALL exposed to cold. There is no bay that goes from one side to the other, except the rear, and I don't really want to heat that much space. No way to cross the coach without insulating. Not practical. I also want to keep the hot water run short as possible, like between sink and shower..I feel I have apretty good plan worked out but is not etched in stone at this point.
Thanx for the rundown. I got a couple of notions.
RCB |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.22)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2001 - 5:27 am: | |
The ONLY pipe which gets a "run around" is the feed pipe from the FW tank to the pressure pump in the toilet area.
The pipe is exposed ,and yes does have 2 unions , should the starter access need accessing.
As the pipe is in the warm area , there is less risk of freezing.
All pumps work better at pushing than sucking , but there is very little loss due to the feed line being 1/2 copper tubing.
The pump is in the toilet area that it and the sink , & head can be kept warm easily.
By installing unions ferquently any frost damage would be easy to fix , but my favorite plumbing ,soft 5/8 copper tubing and flair fittings is even easier to fix , no torch needed.
I use a rather large Sureflow , made to run bait wells.
The pump head is the same as all,
but the motor is 2 is 3X as large , and much less willing to burn out .
FAST FRED |
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