Author |
Message |
Sean Mormelo (Sventvkg) (66.58.223.108)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 10:10 pm: | |
I've been studying up on the various systems that need to be in place along the way for conversion of my bus and the one thing that i'm still very uncertain of, is the electrical system. I was wondering if someone could point me to some resources that spell out how to design and wire up my bus in a way that someone with no electrician experience can grasp. Eerything else to me, looks doable but this looks ominious! Thanks. |
TomNPat (67.192.99.84)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 1:14 am: | |
You may want to heed your perception. If it looks 'ominious', it may be best to find capable help with the electricity. You seem to be pretty sharp; your judgement is probably right. TomNPat |
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.4)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 2:14 am: | |
Ok, I know this may sound strange but..... hit this address... http://www.winnebagoind.com/html/lifestyle/wit/wit.html put your pointer on "RESOURCES", slide the pointer over to "SERVICE" and click On this page, move your pointer down, left side to either "PLUMBING DIAG" or "ELECTRICAL DIAG". We find a lot of our plumbing and electric mimics the staple class RV's. "RTSII" cd |
FAST FRED (4.245.212.57)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 5:16 am: | |
AS an excellent source of materials , and some basic schematics for 12V or 120/240 service try getting a Blue Seas catalog. They have many top of the line (priced that way too ) problem solvers. EG a Transfer switch that accepts 120/240 from a gen set and 2 seperate 120v feeds from shore power. Exactally the setup in many coaches. Do it correctly and you will never have to touch the system (even plan for expansion) again. AS you install everything a $10. set of numbering tapes from the electrical supply to mark every wire and circuit , and a copy of what you actually did will be required by the next owner. FAST FRED |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.173.115.46)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 9:45 am: | |
Aw heck, Fred. Forget the next owner. I needed those numbers and ID chart within a month of doing the rough-in so I could put the switches and fixtures in. This is a very valuable step that most don't take the time to do. It's one of those "pay me now or pay me later" things. Jim |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.40.119.51)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 1:32 pm: | |
Actually, using a $10 set of numbered tapes is a good idea, but a BETTER idea is spending $24 (or less)for a new style label maker that can not only number the wires but name them, the panels, the gauges, the switches...etc. etc. AND when you are done with the electrical system, label anything else you want to. For a little extra money you have a versatile tool that can be put to use for years Brian |
FAST FRED (4.245.230.53)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 1:46 pm: | |
I have found the number stuck on the appliance (fan, light, radio) and on the controlling switch and circuit breaker , as well as the wires at junctions make modifications easier. Can't say about trouble shooting , 40 years of using proper boat wire , and I havent HAD to trouble shoot , (yet). With a doctors handwriting skills , printed # work better than my scrawling. FAST FRED |
Sean Mormelo (Sventvkg) (66.58.223.108)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 9:52 pm: | |
I would certainly number all the circuits and wires but I wish I could find a simple overview on how the electrical system is put together and works..In laymans terms simply laid out. If I could see it, I would understand it and be able to wire it. I certainly do not have the $$ to have someone else put it in, and I would think I would need to run some of the wires in the walls when I reinsulate and put up Plywood...This will have to be by the end of next month!!! oh no!!! |
John that newguy (199.232.240.193)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 10:29 pm: | |
A visit to Home Depot or other similar store can show you some of the surface mount fixtures available. Running wire through the bays and up into the edge of the wall, into the surface conduit and into your surface mounted box, is easier than through the inside of the wall. Especially if you're not sure where ahead of time, it's going. Likewise, running PVC conduit through the bays is an option you can use to route all your wiring through. Run your AC wires from each outlit/fixture back to the area you expect to have the genset at. Run all the DC wires back to the area you expect to put your converter and house batteries. With it all numbered, you shouldn't have any problem. As far as AC wiring, the same safety precautions used in your home would apply in the motorhome. Watch that no sharp openings might cut into any cable and insulate that area, of course. The same books that are available for home wiring can be used for the layout for the motorhome. |
Cory Dane (66.155.188.21)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 12:56 am: | |
I incorporated a cable trough under the window sills, easy to run cable front to rear. Cables run through ceiling to get to other side. Just another option to running through bays. "RTSII" sc |
DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 10:43 am: | |
I'm going to the funeral tomorrow for a friend who was electrocuted in a case where some basic safety rules were not followed. You can read all sorts of opinions on types of wire, crimp connections vs. screw connections, transfer switches, etc. However, be sure to obtain and follow the correct standard for installation of electrical systems in RVs. While they set minimum requirements, these are based on years of experience by industry (including manufacturers, installers, utilities, testing organizations and product certifiers), regulators and other stakeholders and they go a long way to limiting the risk of shock and fire. Electrical power is very safe when installed and used correctly; it can be absolutely unforgiving when the rules are broken. Just my 2 cents. Dave Dulmage |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (209.128.79.46)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 11:01 am: | |
Referring to the original post in this thread--I would suggest you find someone to help you with electrical. Or study up until you are comfortable. Or have a 12v coach, at least the 12v won't electrocute you. Gary |
Sean Mormelo (Sventvkg) (66.58.223.108)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 11:07 am: | |
OMG Dave, I'm very sorry to hear about your friend..I will certainly read up and try to find someone who knows about electric to help me....As for making my coach 12 volt, Thats what I thought it should be anyway but I believe I have seen some that are 24V and I don't yet understand the differences and advantages or disadvantages or either....... |
John that newguy (199.232.240.6)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2004 - 11:11 am: | |
In our commercially built Winnebago, the 110v romex was run between the closet wall partition and outside wall. It shorted and caused the breakers to continually trip. The outside outlit also continually shorted due to inadequate insulation from the weather. In our commercially built Georgie-Boy, we found that in numerous places that sheet metal and wallboard screws had penetrated the 110v romex cable that had been stapled to the interior wall structure. Burn marks were found in several areas of the romex, where the screws had been backed out, or removed prior to marketing. In the same Georgie-Boy, we found that the non-weather resistant welding cable that was used for the 12v run to the genset starter had decayed and was shorting against the chassis in numerous locations. Since no fuse is in that run to the genset, it presented a fire hazard, since it ran the entire length of the 36' motorhome and over the gas tank. The cable's insulation was falling of the wire the entire length. The campgrounds you may stay at frequently have inadequate, faulty, or otherwise dangerous situations with their wiring; ground and positive voltage wires are reversed or grounds missing. Common sense should prevail. Sorry to say, it doesn't matter who does the job or what book you use to follow the "proper plan", without common sense, any work is destined to be a hazard to someone, sooner or later. |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.10)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 10:39 am: | |
Brian96A3 - "new style label maker" that can not only number the wires but name them, the panels, the gauges, the switches...etc. etc. Can you elaborate? You mean one of those handheld units with the tape? I thought that writing rubbed off. |
Cliff (Floridacracker) (65.33.17.47)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 9:15 pm: | |
Chuck, I buy panduit labels for equipment at work. They come in sheets that can be printed using a laser printer. I'm sure there are other brands at Office Depot..etc... I made a simple spreadsheet to fit the space allowed. Since your using the computer you can use colors to identify individual circuits or groups of wires. I also have a label maker(Dymo)and the print does not smudge, but I prefer the Panduit sheet style if I am putting to amd from information on them. I am planning to number every wire in my bus using the tape numbers and have a cross reference book to identify them. This way if I change there use I only have to change the info not all the labels. Cliff |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.55)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 11:44 am: | |
Thanks Cliff - that's an alternative I hadn't thought of. The only challenge with the spreadsheet approach is that I'd have to think about the wiring before actually doing it. |