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dgkurtz (69.11.124.229)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 5:50 pm:   

I don't have years of experience to go by, but my 4106 manual 4 spd. shudders 3 or 4 times as it rolls the last 10 feet or so, to a stop. I tried doing it in neutral and there's no shudder. I can only assume its the clutch. How do I know if this is a wet or dry clutch, as I've heard it mentioned before? What might replacement cost be and where do I find a good one? (I'm on the Canadian Prairies, eh!) :) Thanks in advance!
RJ Long (Rjlong) (67.181.236.27)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 6:20 pm:   

Do you have the Shop Manual and Shop Manual Supplement for your coach? If so, adjust the clutch per the book, starting at the front and working your way back.

Once you've got it properly adjusted, take it for another drive and see if you still have the same problem. (You ARE putting in the clutch during this last 10-20 feet before coming to a stop, aren't you?)

4106's have a twin-disc dry clutch. Luke at US Coach, Berlin, NJ, would be a good source of parts, IF you actually need to replace the clutch. He has a toll-free number (1-888-262-2434), but I'm not sure if it will work for you.

Closer to home, there's also J&D in Minnesota, but I can't recall exactly where or his phone number at the moment (one of those "senior" things, as my kids say. . .) I'm sure someone else will jump in here and provide that info for you.

HTH,

RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA
TWO DOGS (63.156.216.17)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 6:31 pm:   

SOUNDS LIKE A U-JOINT TO OL' TWO DOGS....get under there & grab the driveshaft & shake the shit out of it...
Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (207.14.166.143)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 6:34 pm:   

And...(sorry to butt in here) the clutch should be pushed in OR the tranny slipped into NEUTRAL BEFORE the mill reaches idle speed when coming to a stop.

Not to does sossss will cause shuddering and thunking (what is thunking?) like what you describe. Either slip to N or clutch in. Good luck.
BrianMCI96A3 (208.17.77.130)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 9:10 pm:   

I'm just guessing here, but my thinking is that the clutch IS being pushed in...

Either the clutch is not totally being released, (so perhaps there is a linkage or adjustment problem), or as Two D says a drive line u-joint is about to fail.

In either case until you can find out what the problem is, you should not drive the bus until you have this fixed, or if you have to drive to have it fixed, do so as carefully and slowly as humanly possible.

If it is adjustment or linkage related, you may still be able to save the clutch. If it is u-joint related and it fails destructively there is no telling the amount of damage a whirling driveshaft can do.

One REALLY horrible possibility that just tickled my memory is the input shaft bearing about to fail in the transmission...

If none of the other possiblities pan out, a quick
pull of the drain plug, a half second oil drain and replacement of the plug might be in order.

Catch the oil in a shallow pan and check for metal filings or pieces in the oil (top the tranny up afterwards).

If there is metal in the oil you may have a serious problem within the tranny.

It may be something else, totally unrelated but I surely would want to know what the problem is before I moved that bus very far.

Brian
Gary Carter (68.25.45.242)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 11:05 pm:   

Also make sure the transmission to engine bolts are tight. The transmission sometimes will work loose.
HondoJoe04 (69.75.75.26)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 1:26 am:   

HI RJ,
That's C&J Bus Repair in Bloomington, Minnesota.
Contact is J.D. Dickenson @ 800-228-7349
Excellent facility & knowledge abounds.
Parts prices are excellent & fast shipment thru parts man, Yves. Definately the place in MN.
Regards, Joe in Palm Desert
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (65.74.66.104)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 3:00 am:   

Hi, dgkurtz.

I could have sworn that our coach was doing the same thing. But, as nearly as I can tell, it wasn't.

After getting into town and doing some stop and go driving, we would get a kind of shudder that seemed to be coming from the clutch. It never did this if the brakes were cold.

One day, when it was shuddering, I needed to move only a slight distance on a grade. All I had to do was release the brake and then stop. It did it again, but the clutch wasn't involved.

As near as I can tell, the shuddering was cause by a bad heat check in a drum. With light application of the brakes at very low speed, it showed up, but only in stop and go traffic.

I'm not saying that this is what you've got, but you might be real painstaking about proving it's the clutch and not the brakes.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
FAST FRED (4.245.230.115)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 5:06 am:   

Have to agree with Tom.
Brakes could be the cause.

Pick an empty street and shift into neutral at 30 and bring her to a stop.
That would eliminate the clutch from the equation.


If you still get the shudder try looking at the lining thicknesses , they should be sorta equal.

Fairly common with new linings that haven't been chamfered a bit on leading edges , or with a serious brake problem (loose pin ).

FAST FRED
FAST FRED (4.245.230.115)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 5:10 am:   

OF your coming to a stop in HIGH (4th) and are down to 5-10 mph the engine will shudder as your trying to operate it below idle.

Just stepping on the clutch a bit earlier should solve this.

Look up the Daris graph of engine vs road speed and see if your not attempting to drag the engine below 600RPM.

FAST FRED
BrianMCI96A3 (208.17.77.130)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 11:40 am:   

Okay, people...

"my 4106 manual 4 spd. shudders 3 or 4 times as it rolls the last 10 feet or so, to a stop. I tried doing it in neutral and there's no shudder"

If dqkurtz hadn't said that the shudder goes away with the tranny in neutral, I might have agreed with hot spots on the brake drums.

BUT, based on this statement "as it rolls the last 10 feet or so" It sounds to me like the brakes are not being applied...

And, while it is never safe to assume, and it is possible that dqkurtz does not have the clutch in when he is encountering these shudders, the way he describes the situation leads me to believe that he is pushing in on the clutch pedal, but if for some reason the clutch is not fully releasing...

In any case a bit more detail on the subject would make it easier to diagnose, dqkurtz, can you give us more info?

Brian
dgkurtz (70.64.172.76)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 7:44 pm:   

Hey! Appreciate all replies! Haven't been around the pc since posting. I thought the shudders might be brakes, but it happens with and without. BrianMCI has it right. Clutch in = shudder. I shudder to think I was in Bloomington less than 3 weeks ago. Could have picked up a clutch quick, but it wasn't shuddering at the time. The coach is parked right now. Didn't want things to get any worse. Thanks for the advice.
Anyone else?

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