| Author | Message | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.245)
Rating: N/A |
Sometimes I just *know* I'm forgetting something and if you would be so kind to look at this and tell me of anything I've forgotten before I glue it all up. I was planning to use PEX originally but couldn't find the stuff locally and was more comfortable being able to run to Homer's place every other day...  - 1/2" CPVC for all supply hot & cold (hope that's big enough) - The Nibco's are for regular use, the plastic valves rarely if ever - The tree is on the 'north' wall of the 'south' bay. (Front wall of bay 3) - Accum. will be in the pump output line What have I forgotten? I know this is kindergaten for you folks, but I'm getting a heat stroke from TX in August. Many thanks, Chuck Other WIP...   <br> | ||
| bill moldenhauer (12.74.15.205)
Rating: N/A |
What about the bathroom sink and shower I ran seperate line to each to be able to shut off one at a time in case Of a leak I have an aqua hot and ran a seperate manifold for hot and cold | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
The one labeled 'loo' goes to bathroom, where those fixtures split off there. Wasn't clear, thanks! | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.114.218) Rating: N/A |
excent choice on cpvc...excelent on hot AND cold...it is more burst proof in freezing weather...1/2" is what I used....works fine plenty for shower,haven't had anybody flush while I was in the shower,but imagine that would be as painful as always..... | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.114.218) Rating: N/A |
don't forget to put that purple stuff on before you glue it....lots of people don't know why it's purple | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.114.218) Rating: N/A |
maybe I'm looking at it wrong...it's in the bay...why is everything pointing DOWN | ||
| Bob (Bobb) (216.232.250.26)
Rating: N/A |
I agree with TD.. why is everything pointing down. While the risk of freezing is probably the furthest thing from your heat exhausted mind right now, a really good system would be built so everything will drain to the lowest point. Of course you would have the drain valve located at this point. Further, a point at the top of the system to apply some air pressure to blow the lines out would be good too. Nothing like have a pipe burst due to freezing. (incidentially its not the water that bursts the pipe, but the air pressure of a trapped bubble of air in the pipe). They always burst at the most inaccessible places. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
Re: pointing down - now *that's* the kind of bugaboo that the plumbing novice like me would never have known and I thought I'd read up pretty well. No reason except that it fit nicely into that space and seemed like things could be conveniently routed from there. Bob, you're very correct, Sir. No thoughts of freezing pipes in this weather but I will NOW! So basically, I could rotate the whole thing 90¡ CCW, and turn the intake around to point westward. (left toward the door/drivers side) Many thanks guys, you're Swell! | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
And yep, got plenty of purple stuff & cpvc glue. Glad I waited and asked you guys first! | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.40.213)
Rating: N/A |
Chuck: Just one further tip. Use a minimum of 18" of flexible into and out of the pump; likewise at the accumulator. You will be amazed at how effective it is in eliminating vibration noises in the plumbing system. Does that sewer run have a rise in the middle of it or is that just a photo illusion? | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
Ahh, more good info, James. In the pics, nothing is attached, supported or glued yet, so it's all sloppy-fit. Those loops around the pipes are bent coat-hangers just temporarily holding it all in place!  Thanks for being there! | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.209.244) Rating: N/A |
1/2 is slow on big users like washmachines, and without a higher pressure pump than is RV common , even showers can be slower than "home 'style. 5/8 or 3/4 (best ) will accept pumps that turn on at 15psi and off at 30. The smaller 1/2 inch tubing will need a 30psi on and 50 off to deliver the goods. The difference is only a bit of extra battery drain ,more noise while running and higher priced pump , not a problem for the patient. FAST FRED | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.119.7) Rating: N/A |
yeah ...rotate 90 degres ..or 100...I ran mine along the roof ,1" off the ceiling ,straped it to ceiling with plastic plumbers tape,then got foam insulation & put it around everything after it was all done...does look like you need more slope on the 3" line coming out of the tank...& mabe some braceing on it too.. | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.119.7) Rating: N/A |
maybe even rotate 180 degrees | ||
| Airless in Mississippi (68.243.52.83) Rating: N/A |
Is 3" from Kitchen a little overkill? | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.208.146)
Rating: N/A |
FF: Respectfully disagree. A lot of water stands in 5/8 or 3/4, which translates to a lot of waste when waiting on Hot water. For hot water lines I use 3/8" copper but I see nothing wrong with CPVC either. Sureflow and FloJet both make 60 psi pumps that use no more power than their previous 40# models and are quieter. I also see no problem with using the 40# Whisper King or similar. My shower head outlet delivers nearly 5gpm free flow after approx. 14' of run w/8 90 degree bends to the mixer valve on the hot side (that was an actual test and not from a chart); more than enough considering I have a 2.5 gpm water saver head, figured at 40#. I just don't see the need for 5/8 or 3/4 supply side plumbing in an RV with the exception of a header or manifold. I also have a Splendide that performs just fine with 1/2 cold and 3/8 hot, with branch lines about 2' ahead of the shower mixing valve. Unless someone plans on permanent umbilical cords in a park, conservation should be of prime concern in an RV and 3/4" supply pipe has the capacity to drain even the largest water tank in a matter of minutes. Were talking about very short runs and fairly compact distribution systems in RV's and therefore pressure drop in distribution lines is minimal. Also, no practical purpose is accomplished in installing large lines and then putting in flow restrictors to conserve; only thing that accomplishes is wasting your money on "show and tell" crap, and in the case of a shower, freezing your ass off waiting on the hot water! | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.119.7) Rating: N/A |
yeah.....what he said... 1/2 " is fine..GO CHUCK ! | ||
| BrianMCI96A3 (69.34.99.101) Rating: N/A |
Chuck, that's a great set of photos, how bout posting a similar set when you finish gluing it in place? Brian | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
Fellows, I can't thank you enough for your counsel. I'm heading out there now to re-jigger the setup. It's a real drag to be 10 miles away - I need a place where the coach is 10 yards away!!! It's cramping my innovocation! Followup: - That larger line from galley is 1.5" - the photo makes it look larger. - Yep, that one needs a slope - prob. something slightly less than 1/4" per foot planned. - I *really* should paint or ozite the bay wall before all this but I CAN'T WAIT for purtification! Will probably regret later. - I read some time back, regarding PEX in RVs, that, "The usual size of the tubing is 1/2 inch, there a few RVs that have 3/8 or 3/4 inch tubing, but they are rare." so I figured 1/2 CPVC was just right. Plus, the lousy HD's that I've visited had a very limited supply of 3/4 CPVC stuff, not near as much as the 1/2 so thought that must mean something. - Will post photo of final assembly. I already know I'm redoing the line in bay2 - that pipe running at an angle under the floor is just too gross. Functionally acceptable and out of the way but oh so tacky to be like that. It looks worse in the photo, but I'm trying to maintain *some* sense of class. ;) Will check back in a few hours from the coach/sprint/cellphone before gluing for your final thoughts. If I can only git over there - too much wasted time in the mornings on this dumb internet thaing! EXCEPT FOR BNO! (Do I *really* need to know how many were carbombed "over there" every day / night, etc....? It's been going on for centuries) ;) | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.34) Rating: N/A |
cpvc is BETTER ......I think !! ... GO CHUCK ! ! ! | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.191.46) Rating: N/A |
The hassels I have found with most plastic pipe is light can get thru it. IF light can get to the FW tank or even only a foot of hose/plastic pipe your FW system will grow a great Green "science experiment" that you get to DRINK! Some plastic can take freezing better than copper tubing , but there is no cure for the green slyme short of taking chlorene to the system & flushing. AS a very Lazy fellow my choice is for 5/8 soft copper refrigeration tubing and flair fittings. Not cheapest choice but,, Won't grow bugs and is very easy to carry a hunk to replace after battle damage.(freezing , errant full toolbox ect.) Soldered copper tubing is second choice , if not to be burried in walls & cabinetry. Decisions, Decisions , makes this a fun hobby, FAST FRED | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.34) Rating: N/A |
yeah...bays have SOOOO much light | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.34.71)
Rating: N/A |
Lots of choices here, and nice thing about all the choices, basically none of them are wrong! A little different than electricity in that respect. And the hot lines are insulated down in those dark bays or buried in those walls, or running in the back of those cabinets. And, CPVC is white; I believe that represents the absence of light in the material if I recall my 2nd grade advanced physics class. Now, I also realize that some cpvc is beige to tan in color, so maybe some light there. Most of the water contamination problems that I have encountered in an RV were from water contaminated prior to entering the RV. Besides, people eat and drink green jello, green slurpees, and green Kool-aid, along with all those green veggies, so what's the problem w/ a little green in the water? | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.34) Rating: N/A |
keeps ya' regular... ALL cpvc is tan....none of it is white.. | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.34) Rating: N/A |
ya' got to remember....that bottled water you just drank ,was once dinasaur pee | ||
| busone (4.4.12.34) Rating: N/A |
Ummmm dinosaur pee | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.28) Rating: N/A |
makes ya' want to drag something back to the cave | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.214.113)
Rating: N/A |
TD: Don't drink bottled water---haven't joined the Yuppie crowd as yet. Would you like to see some white CPVC (just as white as PVC) or perhaps some pale pink or pale yellow or pale green, even a real light purple one, and yes, the usual beige/tan (the cheap stuff): 250# WP, 425# test,gas transmission pipe, sizes 2" to 18" (pipeline stuff); colors designated coefficient of expansion or permissable bend factor. I worked with it 30 yrs. ago. Hard telling what colors they have come up with since then (maybe Hot Pink that u can tie knots in it). It is not all tan, only what u have seen maybe. | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.16) Rating: N/A |
colors.....I see colors...why is everybody so anal...put it in there,buy some foam four foot wraps & get out there on the highway...I just got back from a 1000 mile cruise...not going anywhere special...just cruiseing...someday,we will be too old...then...all that is left is,"COULD HAVE".."WOULD HAVE"..."WISH I HAD DONE THAT"... | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
Looks like ya'll have been up to your usual shenanigans while I've been pretending to be knowing what I'm doing. Regarding my afternoon, why am I surprised? In business, (what was that?) *everything* always takes 2-3x as long as it should. (Or in software development anyway) Good grief it's hard to believe that after 24 hours about all I have is a new version, still unglued/mounted. In my defense, I *did* get a much later start than I thought I would. ;) NOW I remember why I was so committed to PEX. It doesn't have to be measured nearly as precisely as this stuff! Bet I have 15 pcs. cut that weren't just right. It *would* be a lot easier if I wasn't trying to maximize every square inch of space and just put things any old place.  It's all saggy looking because it's not supported yet & is sloped outwardly slightly downward. Comments? Insults? Good cheer to throw my way? You know, as I do this simple little task, it's hard to comprehend the effort and complexity of some of the tasks you've undertaken. Raises, skinning, S60 repowers, gearing changes..... YOU have my highest admiration. I'll take folks like you who know how to DO STUFF (even though you like to argue a lot ;) over them politicians and almost all corporate pod people any day) Thanks again for all your support with this piddlin task. | ||
| Airless in Mississippi (68.243.255.30) Rating: N/A |
Is the pump going to be ABOVE the manifold? Should the pipe for it be pointing down? To the hot water heater but what about from the hot water heater? | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
Airless, questions 1 & 2 - I dunno - I hadn't thought so, but now that I think about it, it seems like it should, if it's that important for all water to drain out for winter prep. Hmm. Mo thought needed on the pump. Question 3 - All this is cold only. HWH output will be a whole 'nother task. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.178)
Rating: N/A |
And while I'm at it, YOU,  take it easy on Fast Fred, one of my major HEROS. Drinkin' slime could be a big problem for me now that I no longer use Scotch, my former internal cleansing agent. | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.16) Rating: N/A |
ATTA BOY CHUCK....now...lets go cruisein'....what a blast...to see people with their mouth open..."A BUS"....love to go thru little towns.................... | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.7) Rating: N/A |
yep, he's right...the one from the pump should be pointing down..and the aux...can be right after the ball valve on inlet... | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.109) Rating: N/A |
Uhmm... Ok, so I'm a real newbie. I haven't got into much of the rebuilding process yet.... but... I have worked on house electrical and plumbing, so it should apply, right? Why do you need so damned many valves at one place and all that extra piping? Why not run one pipe with a shutoff valve from the pump, straight through to the bath, and on to the kitchen? Valves at those locations for the sink, etc? That's more what you'd find in your house. A separate pipe from wherever the hot water tank is, back to the sinks. If you have to fix a faucet, the valve is right there, under it... Man.... why so complicated? That picture looks like a page out of the Rube Goldberg School of Engineers handbook.... | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.7) Rating: N/A |
he has alot of valves...correct...but...water only comes from tank when you are dry camping..rest of the time,while hooked to city water,is the reason it looks so complicated to you,there are two inlets...because ,two different sources of supply... | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.156.216.7) Rating: N/A |
and the slime issue...all public water supply has a little chlorine in it,to eliminate 'slime...if you are getting your water out of a ditch,or well without chlorine..you might be concerned about slime... | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.109) Rating: N/A |
Uhh yeah... so aside from the pipe to fill the tank, you put an auto diverter valve between the street connection and the pump output. That allows the city water to bypass the pump and go directly into the main on/off valve and one pipe feeding the system when it's under city water pressure. When there's no city water pressure, the valve automatically returns to whatever is supplying the pressure. Sure, do it with a manual valve, but it's still the same beyond that point. One main on/off valve to turn; one pipe from the water supply area into the coach and valves at each appliance. Just like a normal house. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.109) Rating: N/A |
If this helps: http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (64.105.16.158)
Rating: N/A |
john John JOHN! DUDE! I thought you were my bud! RUBE Goldberg??? Man, cut to da bone why don'cha!!!!! If there were *ever* a coach converter wanting to do things as simply as possible, it's MOI. BUT, am feebly TRYING to do it with some class even if those two concepts may seem completely uncomplimentary to each other. That contraption *will* be 'purtified' (and I know exactly how) at a later time. You'll love it. NOTE- I did not say 'putrified' which it already is now. ;) a.) Galey's BC Bible was the model for the tanking & bypass valve reasoning. There's a reason you need the extra valve between the "To tank" and "From pump". See the book if you have it. b.) The valve, "From pump" wouldn't *ordinarily* be needed but I got a reason - explanation in DP below. c.) The valve, "To galley" could be done at the sink, but why not be able to shut down the entire pipe to the galley incase of freeze? You gotta put a valve at one end or the other. d.) The valve, "To bath" COULD be accomplished with three valves at the fixtures, AND see DP below. e.) I *need* a HWH INPUT cutoff valve, see DP below. Now I will say this. Most of the *few* plumbing photos I've found on the web have valves all over the place instead of being in one place. I don't really know if there's more merit to that approach or not, but perhaps the DP explains why I'm doing it this way. There are a few others I've found and they all look harder to understand. I'll post those photos in a new post. (I *know* at least one of those guys posts here, so NO OFFENSE, OK?) See next post. Re: the link to Mark's site - I'm a big fan of Mark and he ranks way up there in my appreciation for folks who explain things well and take the time to teach, but that drawing is extremely simplified. His site is mainly for the RV crowd who need laymen's basic concepts. I will re-review that page though, it's been a long time. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - P L U M B I N G T R E E D E S I G N P H I L O S O P H Y How's this for simplicity? Unlike many of you who are building / have built their coaches mostly 'beforehand', or before serious use, my goal is more or less 'build it as I go'. Being originally inspired into this "hobby?" by Nick Russell of "Gypsy Joural" fame, my plans are to take his approach. In the beginning, I'm building a PowerPole Queen. Practically zero boondocking provisions. - - f a l l - - - - - - - - - - - - As of now, I have a 'working good enough for now' bathroom toilet and rigged up running water from a separate system, both going to a small temporary holding tank. Once ya'll hardheads have approved the plan, ;) I will have fresh hookup, and will have running galley *cold* water w/drain into 100g holding tank. The fresh tank won't be hooked up yet. This will do for this fall. The above is 'good enough' for weekend at CG. Use CG shower. We don't need no stinkin' hot water in the coach for now. --> So, I need a provision for future HWH, bathroom, and fresh pump/tanking, but will not be doing it right now. That's the main reason it *looks* like there are three extra valves there. They will be OFF for many months to come. The caps on the ends of those three 'extra' valves will just be stuck in there for crud protection, not to do any work. Install HWH, pump, tank hookup, final throne, br sink, shower (already purchased) during downtime on the aforementioned regional trips. What the hell else ya gonna do in a campground after all the activities? Watch Fox news? Why not work in splendor & ease instead of the junkyard the coach is now in? Aw heck, this is way too long already and I have to get to work! Of course none of the above mentions elec, HVAC, finishout etc. Not to deal with today, por favor. OK, Gang, all that said, if there *is* a simpler way, puhleeze let me know. If there's something really wacko in the reasoning or implementation, puhleeeeze let me know ASAP! Seriously. | ||
| TWO DOGS (4.227.112.7) Rating: N/A |
like I said...aux bib in inlet,.....jurnal to pump down...I think you are doing o.k. everybody sees things different... | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (64.105.16.158)
Rating: N/A |
Two Dogs - After sleeping on it, I think the "From pump" can be pointing up OR down, it doesn't matter. Water would be standing in the flexible pipe between there in the pump whether it's pointing up OR down if the pump is off. Don't you think? Would have to figure out a way to get the water out of the flexible line in either case, no? And if you put the aux bib before pump, then you ain't got a way to warsh yo purty little hands outside when you don't have campground? And I'll meet ya anywhere between MineralWells & here. Done. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (64.105.16.158)
Rating: N/A |
Other examples from around the web... I would love to see more so if anyone has a great example, post it!  Can't tell much from this one  Or this one  Or this one  Or this one  This one is almost understandable  Nice. This is the idea, but that's a *lot* o'valves?!  Sean's e x t r e m e system  And of course, hi-dollar | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.212.121) Rating: N/A |
Lots of valves is about as usefull as a huge dashbored of gages monitoring Differential inner & outer seals temps. AS you will (hopefully) wish to use your coach in freezing weather at times. many folks just use OTS RV winterizing valves at the HW heater. This secures the HW circuit , and saves 40 gal of antifreez every cool snap. KISS WORKS! FAST FRED | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.142.82)
Rating: N/A |
Yup, and thanks for the reminder, Fred. In reviewing my notes I just came upon a truly innovative idea from you that GaryS. posted awhile back, but it means dealing with yet more pipes! Yeech!  I'll appreciate it a lot later on. By Gary Stadler on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 11:07 am: "If you're going to use a standard "tank style" RV water heater, think about using Fast Fred's idea of a diverter valve at remotely located sinks, etc that lets hot water go back to the cold tank via a separate hose. You just turn it on until the hot water arrives, then close it and do your thing. No expensive "on demand" heaters, you get hot water almost immediately without wasting a drop, simple." And, you don't full up the grey tank more than necessary! | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.194.76) Rating: N/A |
Pipe is cheap, water can be expensive if you have to go someplace to get some. In the Bahamas water is $1.00 a gal on some islands. A genset makes electric to run the RO water maker, at a buck a gallon , I don't think there breaking even! Saving water is critical for a long boondock ability. Thats why I much prefer oversized piping and a pump set to quite low pressures. Saves water , electric and the pump! Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A |
I put a low cost ball valve in each line to each fixture and to the dishwasher. These valves do not restrict watter flow. The valves are all accessible from the luggage bays. I did this so I could easily isolate parts of the system in case of a leak or other needed repair or to make modifications. If something breaks down while on the road at an inconvenient hour or where you don't have ready access to repair parts, this may make the difference between a small inconvenience or something major. Our water pump is installed adjacent to the fresh water tank on a mounting on the floor of the bay where the tank is. It is connected to the fresh water tank and to the plumbing by means of braided flexible hoses. Dave Dulmage (MC-8) | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.242)
Rating: N/A |
ONE LAST TIME? This thread and topic is wearing thin I know. I didn't even mount it this time. John, can you live with this 'svelt' engineering?  | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.212.52) Rating: N/A |
Will there be pockets of water left after just opening one valve for a Quickie unheated winter drain? FAST FRED | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.133) Rating: N/A |
Ahhh..... Yeah.... Svelt Goldberg. Listen, if you take a tip from the millions of commercial RV manufacturers and do it as simple as can be done, you won't have any future problems. One of the very few things on a "stick and staple" unit that's done right, is the water system. They make it near foolproof and to pass any/all regulations. They usually make a separate fill for the tank. Sure, you can do it your way. But the first time you forget to turn that valve off while connected to city water, you're going to have a problem. And you might be lulled into security, because the city water will be running fine through your bus, while it pops some stuff off your tank and pump. And they sell a real nice auto-diverter that sends the city water into the system and turns off the side that comes from the pump, automatically. It's like two one-way valves. city-->|<--pump. Opens to whatever is the highest pressure, also helps eliminate problems of too high city pressure from damaging the pump. Hey, anything will work. Your plan, is -your- plan. Nothing's wrong or right.. well... except for codes maybe... but who cares? I've seen conversions that didn't have vents for the waste system. Uhhh... who knew? Except when the water doesn't drain and that damned shower fills up to your knees.. I have always been a true believer in "KISS". That's the acronym for: Keep It Simple Stupid. It usually defies all engineering rules and manages to work, where the engineer's model doesn't. Flush twice, you've been doin' big business. | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A |
I have a "quick fill" valve asssembly that I purchased at RV Surplus in Elkhart, Indiana. It has a valve that switches from "Local Supply" to "Fresh Water Tank" to allow filling the tank. There are three connections to this assesmbly, one input connection from the city water supply, one to the bus plumbing system and one to the bus fresh water tank. When the fill position is selected it simply delivers water to the tank through the fill inlet in the tank, much as a gravity fill arrangment would. If you happen to forget or get distracted (it happens to me) when filling the tank, the worst that will happen is water will run out the vent line. I have two fresh water tanks connected together and have installed a vent line on each them. These vent lines are each terminated in in a marine through-the-hull type vent which has a mesh screen. These vents are intended for venting permanent fuel tanks in boats but work well for this purpose. The ones I used are chrome plated brass. These are mounted on a bracket which is fastened on the ceiling of the bay where the fresh water tanks are. The vents are oriented in a horizontal position with the openings on the side of the vents facing downwards. The ones I have used are similar to the picture below. Dave Dulmage \image | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A |
Image {Fresh Water Tank Vent} | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
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Image  | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.142.39)
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OH YEAH!  "take a tip from the millions of commercial RV manufacturers and do it as simple as can be done"  Sorry, John - had to roll my eyes at you after that one! Standby for tomorrow's photo of finished, glued product. Ya'll will be rolling yo eyes at me. Like that hasn't been going on this entire thread. ;) This, from winnebago's site | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.136.128.100)
Rating: N/A |
That just re-confirms why I don't have a plastic house-car. Sorry Chuck, but I don't have a manifold either. Just soldered hard copper laid out as would be found in a house. To each his own. One bit of advice, pressure test the entire system with air and see if the pressure stays at the test pressure for several days before adding water. Air leakage is a lot less messy than water leakage (LOL). Jim |