| Author | Message | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.118)
Rating: |
My left tag is acting just like a hound dog whose back leg was caught in one of Two Dogs' rat traps. I would *never* have thought that the trailing axle wheel would actually lift up and clear the ground by 1.5". That's what my left tag wheel is doing. It's up and it ain't going down. Do the bags actually have springs in them which pull the arm UP???? Naah. Couldn't be, huh? Or could it? If someone took a knife and stabbed the tag bag, my assumption is that it would just be useless weight rolling along, but it would lift UP???? Before I schedule an MCI appointment, (Yike$$$$$) surely this isn't a soap-n-spray bottle kind of issue, or is it? Could it be 'stuck up'? Might I have taken a steep slope at a wierd angle and caused the shock to stick? This coach does not have the optional trailing axle unloading switch. I did turn the valves on and off for both sides and they sounded exactly the same as pressure was cut off, but no change in wheel position. Any ideas? The shadow's so strong that I'm not sure you can see how freakish the tag really looks.  | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.81.12) Rating: N/A |
I can see it...real clear...good photo...think you have a bushing problem...not too cheap | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad) (207.30.189.33)
Rating: N/A |
I have to agree with 2 Dogs. The tag axle bushing in probably froze up. This is a bronze bushing that is a snug fit in the cross-over tube that is bolted to the bus frame. Replacing it is definately "Bull Work". Give Luke a call 1 888-COACH34. He can explain the procedure and has the parts available. I replaced one of mine. Hope this helps, Jack | ||
| Ed Roelle (68.62.25.203)
Rating: N/A |
If you need to remove the arm and inspect/correct the bushing, rather than loosen the joint up, read on. To remove the arm, you should remove the wheel, brakes, and fasteners. This will lighten the arm weight. To remove the arm, you may need a porta-power to pull it out. Ed Roelle Flint, MI | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.133.186.81)
Rating: N/A |
This is a case where, if one side is bad, the other side is too. You're looking at $850+ in parts and a long day's labor on each side. You will also want to find a shop that has done this before. The old bushing needs to be chiseled out and the shaft welds ground and then the shaft pressed out with a 50 ton press. New parts need to be shrunk with dry ice to put them in. As it is right now, the bushings and shafts are rusted together. If you can grease and loosen them up, you will probably have tag axles that are way out of alignment from the rest of the bus. This can cause handling problems and excessive tire wear. With tires at $400+ each it won't take too long to pay for the tag bushings and shafts. Jim | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.80.110) Rating: N/A |
you could try liquid wrench on the bushings....know it has been parked for quite a while | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.193)
Rating: N/A |
Ya know, before I start cryin' in my beverage I'm gonna try a few dumb luck things like that. I know it hasn't always been that way since I've had it, and in a drive a month or so ago I had to negotiate a wickedly sloped fuel station entrance at a sickening angle. So maybe it somehow went out of limits and stuck at that time. You should have seen me yesterday trying to jump up and down on it. Laughable. From what you guys have described, I know it's too much of a bull work job for my meager space/time/tools. I know, I know - I've read it dozens of times from you guys - "You're playing with the big boys now." Compared to Gary's and others recent mishaps, I just have to sigh. So if it is a trip to MCI, we're talking many thousand $$$!?  | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.208.190) Rating: N/A |
don't know if you can bust them lug nuts off...that is a chore without a 1" drive air wrench...after you get the tire off...wet everytng that moves ...or should move ,use that little nozzel on the side of the liquid wrench can...I have a number of a mobile flat guy in Dalls,he might charge you 20.00 to come out & bust them nuts off | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.208.190) Rating: N/A |
K.D.'s tire service 7days a week/24 hours a day 972-259-1589 pg# 972-229-0563 | ||
| madbrit (67.136.104.207) Rating: N/A |
Chuck, When I bought my MC-8 from Hausman Bus (MCI) at Los Alamitos Ca, I had them install new tires, replace an air bag and a few other items. Everything they did came out at less than the estimated cost, if I had known, I would have had them do a whole bunch more items whilst it was there. Peter. | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.208.190) Rating: N/A |
after you get everything good & wet....put a bottle jack between the frame & the axel... | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.245)
Rating: N/A |
Well I feel like an idiot for this naive and innocent thread. Combined with my silly glee about getting running water. Big deal. This is the big deal. Now that I have researched, (which I should have done before the post) there is no alternative than you gentlemen being exactly on the money in identifying the problem. The only two places on the entire bloody suspension that need lubrication, and if was done in the last many years you sure can't tell it. Guess what fell off in my hand as I was digging out the crud? The Zerk fitting on that side. Da book in the explanation on removal of that arm says something like, "slide the axle assembly from cross tube." Yeah, right. In retrospect, hoping WD40 is gonna fix it is like using a flyswatter on a fighter plane. Ain't gonna happen. And here I was so pleased and grateful at the overall condition of the coach. I sincerely hope this isn't a showstopper on the whole conversion, but $3K on a coach that cost less than $10 grand don't make sense especially for something that seems, well, like such an inconsequential part of the coach mechanicals. (I know it's not, but heck, it ain't the transmission or anything) That is fully appreciating the fact that I'm sure Jim is right when he says both sides would need to be done. The actual bushings are only $150 or so, but if the entire arm has to be replaced, that's $2,800 alone for the arm each side. I'm gonna give this a few days and talk to some folks and see where to go from here. No more 'tra-la-la'ing for me. Plumbing seems pretty trivial now. Thank you for your time and I apologize for the length of this post and for having jumped the gun with such a naive question to begin with. This wasn't just an "RV" for me. It was a whole lot more. I'm kinda nauseous right now so I'm gonna just thank you all, sincerely. | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.177.145.70) Rating: N/A |
try that bottle jack like I said...then after you get it unstuck,grease the shit out of it.... I said: .....YOU GOT A BUSHING PROBLEM.... I didn't say they were worn out ya' want me to come down for a few days ?? | ||
| Robert Wood (Bobwoodsocal) (4.46.108.207)
Rating: N/A |
Hang in there Chuck, I know it sucks but you will get through it. And it's not silly to feel good about running water- I know I will be beaming with pride when I have it in my bus. BTW, I saved the pic of your water dist sys so I can reference it later. All the best Chuck, Bob | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.177.145.70) Rating: N/A |
the adventure is in the journey...not the final destination..... | ||
| Bob (Bobb) (216.232.250.26)
Rating: N/A |
Buck up Chuck!.... Most of us have had these setbacks in our dreams to one day be cruising down the highway in our personally converted coach. There were a few times I considered selling the bus for scrap, as it wasn't in nearly as good of condition as the "Deacon" described. But most of that is behind me now, as I have replaced all the rusted out frame members, and worn out brakes, shocks, etc... Try fixing it without dismantling it.. some grease hardens when it sits for a long time.. maybe it just needs to be loosened up a bit.. then if it does need repairing, think how much better you will feel knowing at least that part is in good shape. If I wasn't 2500 miles away, I'd come down and help you and TD take it apart.. Bob | ||
| FishbowlBrian (Fishbowlbrian) (67.165.212.171)
Rating: N/A |
Hang tough, Chuck! You got yourself a great coach there. I've been in her myself. No finer 9-er out there. Hopefully, this is just a minor setback. And if anyone can help get her back, all eight wheels down, it's this BNO board here. Crazy question for all of you busnuts, since I still know almost nothing about how these huge beasts work: how important is the tag, in the grand scheme of things? If one keeps the GVWR down, is the extra axle and tires really needed? I see the 4905's (I think) with the retractable tags. I've even seen a few coaches with the tags pulled off. Bad idea? Thoughts go out to you, Chuck! FBB | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.51.68)
Rating: N/A |
I've known 4-5 people w/MCI's and this problem. Never known any of them to have to do anymore than replace bushings. A lot of work, but not bankruptcy. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Fishbowl, Dumping the pressure from the tags is a technique used to increase traction, like in snow. I was a passenger in a MCI used to transport skiers to the Yosemite Park ski area. We got "stuck" on a short grade in new snow and the driver, without chains, was also stuck until what she termed was the "stupidvisor" showed up and flipped a switch and drove out. He cautioned that the manual warned against driving with tag pressure dumped above a certain speed. I don't have a driver's manual for my -9 so I can't verify this memory. Memory aside, dropping tag pressure lightens front axle weight and may have dynamic effects on handling with the extra weight "behind" the drive axle. You can make it a plus and consider installing a steerable tag axle. It can be done, without the problems encountered by MCI. The "fix" result was a more positive means of reversing caster when reversing direction. Estimate I was given was $3,500.00 for parts. I'd go that way rather than rebuild a "seriously" damaged tag axle assy. In summation, dropping the tag would suggest relocating the drive axle (easier) or the front axle (real project) to the rear or finding a drive train that weighed about 500 lbs. (probably do-able with a sidewinder rocket motor, but poor in the mileage results! LOL) Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| BrianMCI96A3 (64.12.116.135) Rating: N/A |
For my money, as a diesel mechanic of 25 years, I'd try to re-lube the bushings and try to free the axle up before I did anything else. It is obvious to me that at some point you went over something that lifted the tag that high. If you can bring the tag back down, you might find that you can lube the axle easily enough, and the tag might then operate normally. WD-40 seems counter-intuitive, but at the very least it couldn't hurt. Install new grease zerks and try to get the bushings to accept grease If no grease goes, you will need to move the tag down first. Brian | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.73.225) Rating: N/A |
WD-40 is junk....they changed the formula about 10 years ago....liquid wrench is the thing to use | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior) (64.229.209.46)
Rating: N/A |
Hello ChuckMC9. First, on the safety front, that tag may snap back down with a lot of force, if you start fooling around. Stay out from under there and be careful how you use your tools/levers, they can become projectiles. Next, this is not a disaster. It is simply a lack of greasing, as has been noted. It moved into that position, with enough leverage, it will move back down. If you start removing wheels, you have to worry about what is going to catch it when it lets go. The shock is all that holds it from continuing all the way to against the drive axle, and risking damage to the bag as it is fully extended on the way. That's why the tag chains are used when you are doing other more routine procedures. So, leave the wheels on and go for this: Stock, there is 35lbs of air directed to the tag suspension. If you get an adjustable air regulator, your shop air (or the bus) and plumb your way into the suspension... Let the bag apply the pressure where the coach is strongest for this area. You may find the air line to the bag itself is badly corroded, stay away from there, because if you snap it off, the plan won't work. Plumb in at the shut off valve for the applicable axle, inside the side engine door, you already know where. Those fittings should be a lot cleaner than the ones at the bag, as well as easier to access. Just ease the pressure up a little at a time and watch it free up. Let us know how high you had to go to get it to drop. When you get it free, you want to move the axle back and forth through its full travel as you put grease, and more grease, into it. Put the coach drives up on a run up block to get the droop too. And do the other side the same with the energy that the exhiliration of success gives you! IIRC, the stub axle is at least a foot long, and there is a lot of area that will be starved for lube. Be careful not to drive it back up stuck again, a little further with each cycle up and down, and you'll get it freed right up. It has been happening for as long as there have been tags on MCI's. Lots of people who are paid to grease these things don't bother. Once your tag is freed up and greased, just remember that those few zerks (yes, more than one!) are part of your PM, and other wise forget it was ever stuck, there's better stuff to worry about. Tag axle bags on the MCI's are just bags, no lift axle springs in there stock. When a driver unloads the tag to put more weight on the drives, the tag suspension just stops holding up the bus, and rests on the road. Prevost's more modern stuff uses a big brake chamber, a lever and a chain to actually raise their tags right off the road to add the weight of the tag assembly to the mix as well. Lots of snow in Prevost's home province of Quebec maybe an influence? And, no you don't want to permanently remove the tag axle on your coach. Fewer brakes to stop with, lighter front end,lots of fun in a cross wind with a road crown and the rear frame was intended for them to be there to help hold up the drivetrain. Heck of an overhang for a rear engined coach. Last time I scaled my pretty much empty MC8 coach, the tags were holding up 4100lbs way back there, with freshly installed new regulators set at the stock 35lbs. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.73.225) Rating: N/A |
It probably hasn't been greased since it left greyhound.. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.245)
Rating: N/A |
Gentlemen, you guys are the best and the brightest of humankind. I respect your character and resourcefulness more than any other group I've come to know over the years and I am proud to be in your company. If I can't overcome this I don't deserve to wear the badge of busnut. I ain't no Wuss, and I ain't givin up! If I was faint at heart I'd just go hang around reading the newspaper at Starbucks. (yuck) Compared to the challenges like Jack and others have had, this is chump change.  I don't know exactly how this will be dealt with, but it will be one way or another. Am going to try several combinations of your most creative suggestions and see what happens. You're right, it ain't the end of the world. Your encouragement is deeply appreciated. -Chuck PS: And I know the tag is critical. After about 25 milliseconds of thinking, "Do I really need it?" I quit stomping my feet and am facing the music. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Hey, Chuck Where do you get a busnut badge? Onward and Upward! Marc Bourget | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.166.14.58)
Rating: N/A |
You don't want to put full shop air (125psi) into the tag air bellows without knowing the condition of the upper bellows mount. These have been known to rust on top due to dirt sitting there with moisture. In normal service, occasionally, these will self destruct and separate from the framework. Soooo, go easy with the air to the bellows. When replacing the bushings and shafts, the quantity of grease is about 10 tubes each side. The total shaft length is 21" and 4" diameter. It wouldn't suprise me if when you got it loose and lubricated it took almost that much. Some shops will drill and tap a hole in the wheel end of the pivot shaft and install a grease fitting right there. Easy to get to and the grease pretty much has to go to the far end of the hollow shaft before it comes back between the shaft and bushing to lubricate. Might be worth trying. Don't worry about a few metal chips getting into the grease, the shaft likely has rust pits almost 1/4" deep and lots of rust chips floating around in there right now. I have one in my shop now in just that condition and it never seized up. I can't imagine what is in yours. I strongly recommend fixing the tag pivots as soon as you can afford it. I had mysterious front tire wear on my MC-8 and it was from sloppy tag axles being misaligned and trying to steer the coach sideways down the road. One positive thing- if you fix them and keep them greased, you will never have to fix them again. Jim | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Jim & Chuck What about, in conjunction with a overhaul or repair of the tag, considering installing the following modification during any "disassembly repair"?: If you were going to install a zert in the wheel end of the pivot shaft, (which I didn't know was hollow) why not drill the hole a little larger, install a 1/4" ID steel tube and a plate at the far end of the shaft, welding both the edge of the 1/4" tube to the end plate and tothe new plate to the end of the shaft? Or, if you were really good, you could thread the pivot, both ends of the 1/4" tube and the 4" end cap and assemble the device by tightening up the pieces. (maybe a gasket at the end of the shaft if you didn't want to add heat!) This way you'd only have to fill a 1/4" tube for 21" to start the grease back thru the bushing rather than fill the full ID of a 4" tube. It'd save alot of grease and cleanup! Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.138.165.182)
Rating: N/A |
Originally, the grease went in at each end through remote fittings connected to the shaft housing with copper tubing. The original shaft had both ends welded shut with a disc. The replacement shafts don't have any ends welded in. This is done in the shop. Sorry about the confusion on the original post about this, its been quite a few years since I did it. Normally, the shop will omit the cap on the inner end and put a fitting on the wheel end to grease it. The point is to put the grease inside the tube to begin with and let it find it's own way out to the wheel end of the shaft which is sealed with an 'O' ring. (Which, after it, or the bushing wears a little, only traps water inside unless grease is applied liberally and often. Putting the fitting on the end of the shaft enables easy, convenient and therefore perhaps more frequent, greasing without getting under the bus.) Jim | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.170)
Rating: N/A |
Well I don't know why I was acting like a LITTLE GIRL about this fer cryin out loud. Now that I know what's going on and how it works. Never expected not to have to fix anything, and am working on being glad something like this happened now rather than in the middle of the desert. Reading dat book in detail is a sobering experience. Man, it's hard to imagine how folks even more lightweight than me manage to own and care for them properly. I can't wait for the time to devote to get to know every detail about their care & feeding. It's *also* hard to imagine getting anything done without a PIT! Followup: - My 20 ton bottle jack won't fit, may try to find a smaller one, but looks like there's really nothing at the right angle to push against. - I did discover that that tag bag has a leak where it meets the arm (probably/maybe unrelated?) so can't try to swell/bust it loose with air pressure. - Seems what is *really* needed is a big eyebolt in a concrete floor to chain the tag to and then lift the rest of the suspension. Hmmmm... - And even if that worked, it almost certainly needs to be fixed right. To close out this tale of "shock & despair" I will say that I am and will be a better and more knowledgeable enthusiast going forward. As Fast Fred says, "It's a HOBBY!" And as Marc says, "Onward and upward!" Thank you again, gents. I'll post a resolution when that arm is swingin in the wind. It may be *January* before that happens, we'll see. ;) And I will never, ever fail to feed it gluttonous amounts of grease every 5,000 mi. Turns out that is one of the lube points most frequently required by the PM Schedule. "Problems are the price of progress. Don't bring me anything but trouble. Good news weakens me." ~ Charles F. Kettering ~ | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.83.77) Rating: N/A |
eveybody gets down in the dumps sometime...just be thankful chuck....you could have somebody saying ::"I TOLD YOU NOT TO BUY A BUS"....... women are wonderful just don't tell them your real name or,where you live ~ TWO DOGS ~ | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.142.19)
Rating: N/A |
 | ||
| Robert Wood (Bobwoodsocal) (4.46.108.207)
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2D you funny! Bob | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad) (207.30.189.33)
Rating: N/A |
I did not know that replacement tag axles were open. When I replaced mine, the replacement axle was sealed off on the inboard end. This would not allow grease to flow from a zerk installed in the outboard end. You would have too remove the axle to determine if the inboard end was plugged. As nemtioned above, there should be 2 zerks on the cross over tube for each tag axle. These may or may not have copper tubes leading to a remote zerk location. Our MC-8 had the remote zerks, but they had been dis-connected and zerks installed directly in the cross over tube. Hope this helps, Jack PS: to check for play in the tag axle bushings, have someone back the bus up/drive forward slowly on a paved surface and hit the brakes. watch for movement of the tag axle when brakes are applied. Another way to check for play is to release air in the tag axle air bag and put a long steel bar through one of the holes in the wheel and against the brake drum. Then try moving the wheel forward or back. | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.11)
Rating: N/A |
Followup - Went over to MCI today and they gave a SWAG of $1K per side, parts & labor. Will probably have them do the job. I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it, but without the facilities/resources I think I would need I'd wind up with a pile of parts in trouble. Those guys are great. I got a full explanation of exactly what's involved and he elaborated a bit more on freezing the bushing/heating the tube. Once ready, he said you've got about three seconds to get it in and get it in just right. I'm not that big a gambler! I think Two Dogs is right - the greasing probably hasn't been done since it left greyhound (although I'm not sure it ever was one) Years of crud came off today and I discovered the remote zerks that Jack mentioned. I was successful in filling the top one, but the bottom ain't accepting donations. I did decide to leave the body blocked up slightly overnight, wondering if many hours of hanging there would cause it to just drop down to da ground. If anyone's still paying attention to this little tale, what would you think the arm, fully loaded, weighs? 500-600lbs? So in a few months I'll update this thread once again. Thank you all over and over again. It helped *tremendously* to be able to talk to MCI and have a pretty accurate idea of his description of the process. AND it is a MORTAL SIN and heinous crime against Busdom not to lubricate those fittings! This is an issue that should go in the "what to look for when buying a coach" files. In all the reading I did, I never encountered this one. | ||
| Robert Wood (Bobwoodsocal) (4.46.108.207)
Rating: N/A |
All's well that ends well, brother! Glad you have it nailed down. All the best Chuck!!! Bob | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.177.145.188) Rating: N/A |
take that zerk out that won't accept & get some wire & dig out the hole & douche it with liqid wrench ,put a new zerk in (.50 )...& grease it & get a jack in there & force the axel down...unless those tires are wearing funny,not sure you need new bushings | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.174.161.5)
Rating: N/A |
Chuck- Be prepared for a suprise when they get the tag axles out. When they see what is in there they might call you and recommend that the shaft be replaced too. If the shaft is pitted and rough, the bushing won't last long. I wish you well in this. Jim | ||
| DrivingMissLazy (66.168.175.51) Rating: N/A |
There is a special tool made for forcing grease into a plugged zerk fitting. You hit it with a hammer to exert a tremendous amount of pressure on the grease to force it in. I have not seen one for many years, but it used to be available. After you get grease in the fittings, then drive the bus over some bumpy roads. Might shake it free. Richard | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.9) Rating: N/A |
As a real "newbie", may I offer advice tongue-in-cheek? 1. Make sure you are aware that the axle will drop with all it's weight as soon as it's free of what's holding it up. You do not want to be under it, near the sides of it, or anywhere you can be pinned by it. 2. Use "Power Blaster" penetrating oil. It is about the best on the market to free rusted/corroded items. 3. If you haven't made out a will and named a beneficiary, drop me an email and I'll give you my name, address and other personal info. seriously... That axle may fire itself downward with all it's power, knock itself off any stand you may be using, or cause the entire bus to move, as soon as whatever it is that's holding it, is loosened. We don't want to add this to the "bus plunge" web site, Chuck. Be careful, willya'? | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.192.93) Rating: N/A |
yeah....no mashed CHUCKIE.....this thread got more hits than the girl with the puppies | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.122)
Rating: N/A |
John, you want the coach or the girlfriend? Heck I don't even need a will for that. Come get 'em. Yep on the axle dropping - as buswarrior pointed out earlier, it can also shred the airbag. Seriously though, thank you for the extra warning. I was reluctant even today to crawl under there even though the body was blocked. I was using one 4x4, two 2x4s and two 3/4 pieces of plywood and could just imagine the wood splintering apart. This weekend is my last effort at homebrew fixes. The rocket scientest Fred Sanford type in the storage space next to me said, "Well that's easy - just go get a fuel pump and rig it up with a zerk socket and flood the bushing with kerosene. Be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy." I opted not to experiment in this way. | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.192.93) Rating: N/A |
yeah....or better than kero. CANNOT beat diesel think those are 1/8 pipe thread...would be too hard to rig something up like one of those pump-up sprayer hooked to a 1/8" kings nipple... o.k. go ahead...how many people are going to nail me on that word | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.9) Rating: N/A |
Kerosene? Naww.... GASOLINE. And you'll need a torch. I'll pass on the perks; been a lil' tired lately from running from Charlie and his girlfriend Francis. Oooops... we may have to run again.. (aarraagghh) I had planned to pick up some railroad ties and make a ramp out of them. It'd be good for working under one end at a time. I figured on cutting them long enough to fit the width of the two rear wheels, and making the footprint long enough to get both the drive axle and bogie up onto it. Do a "step" of sorts, with one tie as a step onto the two-tie height. Nice plans? I'll probably never do it, since I'm on a rented spot. I'd hate to have to move the ties after I bolt 'em all together. Ya'know Chuck... I looked at that picture and wondered what would happen if you back it up onto a curb? Just enough to lift that tag up... so you can see if it's jammed in both directions. With some PB squirted into the bushings and a few bounces, you may free it up enough to use. I'd hate to spend 2k to fix something that can be used as-is for awhile, or until I will need to use it more frequently for trips. If it's not anything that's going to be a danger, I'd look at all my other options first. Ahhh... but then.... I'm a cheap &*^$#@. Lotsa' luck, man. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Gentlemen, What Would Luke Do! (WWLD!) Having a somewhat unique advantage - the engine and tranny in my MCI-9 are removed. I crawled in the engine bay and right up to the Tag Axle Assembly. The tube is bolted to the "firewall" and passes through the top and bottom chords of the engine mount. Due to the 754 Tranny, the tube is slightly "dropped" in the center between the mounting pads to give more clearance for the driveshaft. I can see (both sides) the copper tubes for the grease zerts (but not the zerts themselves, outasight from the inside)"Da Book" also shows a grease zert on the top retaining clamp, giving at least 3 zerts per side. Finally the book also shows 3 venting plugs, each side and center. What with O-rings at both ends, I wonder that the servicing procedure suggests removing the vent plugs before greasing? Luke!, can you give us some guidance here? Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.165.122)
Rating: N/A |
Da book(s) give no guidance re servicing this. To further complicate things, I have two Service Manuals of different vintage along with a parts book. They don't all agree, and none of them are exactly like what's really there! I have the remote tubes. Only the bottom two are zerks, the top is a vent on the remote 'panel'. The vents themselves are springloaded, with pins that pop up & overflow when sufficient grease has been inserted. My clamp has a vent on top, what was a zerk on the bottom, (which I don't think was factory) PLUS the two zerks on the remote panel. Here are the relevant drawings I have. PS: Issit zerks or zerts or certs or zits? ;) PS2: From what I've seen, Luke has been *real* busy, so haven't wanted to bother him asking for free advice. If I were closer I'd be there in a New York Minute. (or New Jersey Minute) | ||
| Bob (Bobb) (69.19.3.254)
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zerk: "In 1924, the Allyne-Zerk Company of Cleveland, Ohio was purchased by Alemite, and the Zerk line of lubrication fittings and hand grease guns was added to the Alemite line. The Zerk design, named after Oscar Zerk, used a fitting much smaller than the Alemite pin-type and did not lock the hose coupler or hand gun and fitting together. Instead, the seal between them was maintained by the pressure of a pushing action when the operator applied the coupler to the fitting. This became known as a push-type system." | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.72.83) Rating: N/A |
yeah....wish we had a "LUKE" down here...he takes ya' under your bus & shows you things...I would LOVE to be abel to see things & learn from somebody that KNOWS...wouldn't it be nice to get your bus greased & KNOW somebody hit every zerk.... | ||
| Jim-Bob (12.46.52.74)
Rating: N/A |
Hey John That Newguy! Where are you located? I've been doing a lot of running from both Francis & Ivan too. First trip to Atlanta, next to Savannah last weekend. But we always go do something fun so it's a mini vacation. Never thought I'd get tired of traveling in the bus, but it's not the same with too many grumpy teens & big dogs! | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.157) Rating: N/A |
We're presently at Palm Shores, Fl, just across the river(s) from Patrick AFB and within sight of the launches at Cape Canaveral. The wife and I are in the 60s and our only offspring (boy/37) is still raising hell in NYC. We took one trip with him aboard a few years ago and swore that from that day forth, any unit we ever own will accommodate only two (2) people. Seriously.... living for any extended period in a 40'x8' box is difficult enough for two, but adding more to the mix can generate ugly situations. And uhh.... adding "grumpy teens" and dogs to the mix is... well.. It does make me realize why I read about so many incidents of people being forgotten at some rest stop... (Johnny? Johnny who?) I sold both our RVs about a month and a half ago and bought the MC9 for conversion. I finally got the racks out prior to the hurricanes and began working out the few million other "bugs". All we had to use for our escape, was an old Dodge caravan.... With me, my wife, our bird and our rabbit.... and all the papers and pictures that might be needed/cherished... we left the area, not expecting to find anything left when we returned. A cat. 5 would have removed any trace of our past existence here. Anyway..... returning to the absence of any damage at all, we give our Thanks to Whoever's watching over us. And will add, that sometimes even with what appears to be the worst things happening in life, life is usually made better for them. (kinda' like your bogie, Chuck. It probably missed picking up a nail by being stuck up like that!) | ||
| Jim-Bob (12.46.52.74) Rating: N/A |
So, John, you are probably close to Manatee Hammock park/campground which we go to from time to time. Good luck with the conversion. But after you and your wife each having your own RV, do you really think you'll both be able to travel in the same one? I see right seat driver problems looming! | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.157) Rating: N/A |
Uh.. well actually... we both always used the same RV.. The original Winnebagocrapo was 33' with rounded sides. It was a real pretty rig, but too small for full-timing. After a number of years travelling around in it,We sold our house and made our one-way trip to Florida in it, living in it for about 9 months. I bought a 36' Georgie-boy and rebuilt it, adding an oak floor, cabinets, trim, etc etc.. We moved into that while continuing our search for a new home and let the Winniegag-o sit in storage. My wife had some serious health problems pop up, so we decided to buy a double-wide as a temporary fix for the absence of a "real" house, and go back to looking after recuperation. And... that's when I decided to sell both RVs and buy a bus. Actually... I wanted to buy and convert a bus prior to buying the Georgie-boy, but time and space didn't provide me with enough "elbow room". Now that we'll kinda/sorta settled and have some time... and I have this neat boatyard to store and work on a bus... well... Things are looking up (maybe). My wife and I agree totally, that there is absolutely nothing that can rejuvenate a relationship better and faster, than living and travelling together in an RV. We both look forward to having that lifestyle return..... Only -this time-, it'll be in a bus conversion. Hey Chuck.... what about that bogie? |
