| Author | Message | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 613 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
When I first asked for opinions what might be the cause of the coolant getting dumped into the oil pan, Clifford came back and said "cracked head" This morning I got word from the machine shop that is indeed the cause of the problem, and I spent today taking the other head off the engine. We are are going to have it checked as well, so that we know what we are starting with. bottom end chek to be done yet. Thanks Donnie for that reminder. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1389 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 184.10.190.159 Rating: N/A |
I'll post the casting number for you on the later heads there is a ton of the older 8v92 heads out there at so called bargains you don't want good luck | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 614 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Was at the machine shop this morning, and the guys said to stick with the heads that have the small water holes. To stay away from the one's that have the dogbone and the larger water passages, those are really troublesome. I am looking forward to casting numbers. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1390 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 184.10.190.159 Rating: N/A |
These are the heads you want Joe 8922354 1st 3 numbers stand for 8V92 good luck | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 618 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
I also removed the second head to have checked while we are at it and it is cracked as well. The machine shop had one on the shelve that had been there a while. This head has no cracks nor been repaired before so they are going to complete it for me and at a slightly better price than the first one. The old head was allredy at minimum thicknes spec so not reusable and no corecharge either. Both new heads have the 354 number, so these are the ones that Cliff said to look for. It should be ready by thursday. the turbo is getting new bearings also. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1395 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 184.10.190.159 Rating: N/A |
Joe, being so deep into the engine with new bearings and heads pull the liners and install new o-rings in the block best couple of hours you can spend good luck | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 619 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Cliff Would appreciate a call on my dime. Joe. | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 622 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Well we are going deeper! Got some second opinions on how the liner and piston looks (Les being one of them) and have ordered pistons and liners | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1402 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 184.10.180.173 Rating: N/A |
When you get the kits you will save money by letting a DD dealer load the sleeves and do the vacuum they break the oil rings they pay lol good luck | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 624 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Cliff The machineshop loaned me a ring compressor made out of part of an old liner. It has about a one and a half inch taper starting at 5 inches at the edge. I tried it on an old piston with rings still in place and it worked real slick. Monaco tools has a similar tool, but it is "ONLY" two hundred bucks plus shipping and for me also import and brokerage charges. Also spent a couple of hours cleaning up my parts washer, it had dirt in it from probably 20 years ago, so I am trying to be very carefull and meticulous putting it all back together. Received the head alignment studs last week, and getting a 2 foot piece of readyrod in the morning for my home made liner puller Joe. | ||
| Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Registered Member Username: Bill_gerrie Post Number: 653 Registered: 3-2006 Posted From: 216.198.139.38  Rating: N/A |
Joe I hope you have an engine book. There is a lot of things to watch for. The space from the top of the liner to the surface of the block must be set by different inserts. No more then .0015 difference between liners on one side. The heads must be lowered exactly parallel to the block surface. Best way is to use a flashlight looking under the head as it is lowered and make sure the rubber rings don't shift as the head is lowered. They can pop out if the head doesn't contact the block evenly. Use international compound #2 under the head of each head bolt as well. Makes for even torque. Follow sequence in tightening head bolts as well. Bill | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 627 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Bill Thanks for the caution. I do have the engine overhaul Da Book and I have checked the liner height on the old liners on one side of the block and they all were within spec. I made a head lifting bracket from some scrap laying around and the head is exactly positioned and balanced when hanging from the lift hook. I also have the positioning studs aswell, not cutoff old headbolts as recommended by Cliff. And yes I do have the International compound as well, a larger container than I will use for the rest of my life. | ||
| Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Registered Member Username: Bill_gerrie Post Number: 655 Registered: 3-2006 Posted From: 216.198.139.38 Rating: N/A |
Joe Why you have to buy such a large amount of the International Compound #2 I will never know. I bought a quart of it (only size available) in 1986 (26 years ago) and still have lots. It changed colour but still works. Bill |