| Author | Message | ||
| MikeM (209.52.92.132) Rating: N/A |
I just bought a used Suburban 30,000 btu propane furnace to install in my GMC 5307. Question I have is whether I should install it in a "bay" (which I have yet to construct) or under a cupboard inside the bus. In a bay, I am concerned with accessability and for proper exhausting through the bay door. However it would free up space inside. Any sugestions or "been there done that's" would be appreciated Mike 1982 GMC 5307 | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.73.158) Rating: N/A |
I vote under a cupboard | ||
| Norm Edlebeck (66.60.214.118) Rating: N/A |
TD is right! I've got 2 of them - one under my dinette bench and the other in the bottom of a closet that's next to the rear bedroom and has 3 ducts - 2 into the bedroom and one down through the floor in the back compartment where all the water systems are located. Really works well. In extreme cold weather, I've used 1 or 2 extra "resistant" type electric heaters also in that back bay - never had a freeze-up yet. | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A |
I installed my heater in the second bay and exhausted it through the door. It's very imprtant to ensure that there is an adequate seal so that the exhaust does not enter the coach. FWIW Dave Dulmage (MC-8) | ||
| Steve Gibbs (4.229.195.240)
Rating: N/A |
Dave, I installed my two suburban heaters, along with my water heater, in a bay and exhausted through the door. However, I fixed my door in place and mounted the units through the door just as they would through any other wall. My tanks share the bay with them and the bay is still accessiable through the other side. See Bus Conversion magazine April 2003 or my website www.dvdrvtravel.com for more detail. HTH Steve MC9 Livin' in the bus | ||
| bruce king (67.170.102.120)
Rating: N/A |
um, steve, your website doesn't have any details of the furnace installation that i can find. Yea, I can probably buy your cds for $70, detailing your conversion, but I don't want them. Can you post a link to the relevant pictures, or you just gonna tease us? | ||
| MikeM (209.52.92.132) Rating: N/A |
There we go, a 50/50 split between under cupboard or bay ;O) I am leaning toward the bay installation and like Steve's idea of fixing that patricular bay "door" into place, allowing a decent seal for the exhaust and allowing the removal of the door for servicing. Nice thing about this site is to get oppinions from other knowledgeable folks then use them to feel better about my choice or to ignore them and do it my way anyway. Thanks to everyone for a great community! Mike. | ||
| TWO DOGS (65.179.200.206) Rating: N/A |
I love being ignored...just like I was married | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
TD Virtue being its owm reward . . . | ||
| FAST FRED (4.247.52.123) Rating: N/A |
I built a cabinet with storage for pots and pans in the furnace area , and a big sliding drawer above. The use of a power screw driver will losten the cabinet in a few seconds making everything EZ to service. The exhaust goes out the side with the stock exhaust fittings. I chose to have the air blow into the orig (cleaned inside) heating duct , so in the AM , when we turn up the heat , the heat can be seen all along the coach windowes , just like when new. Two H Depot closable vents at either end of the stock ductwork allow zone heating , if the need to heat the sleeping (aft)or main salon(foward) extra fast/warm arrives. Advantages , bay is kept free , EZ to work on if it dies in freezing weather, the woodwork absorbes most of the machinery noise. USE heavy wiring for the DC (10ga ) as low voltage eats the cruddy Suburban boards. Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A |
What I like about having my furnace in the bay is the low noise level, not much different from being at home. Dave Dulmage | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.95.31)
Rating: N/A |
How hot does the blowing air get? I like Fast Fred's repurposing the original ducts and am considering the same. However I am also considering running a few wires inside the ducts also. Do you think the heated air gets too hot for wire health? I know - ya'll are probably not going to like this idea.  | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.72.78) Rating: N/A |
when it first comes out of the furnace,it's pretty hot..wouldn't want to hold your hand there,.......8 feet away,I think it would be safe for your hand..... & wire | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
You could always put upper and lower heat limit switches in the system set to cover the temp limits of the wire you use, but it would limit the overall capacity of the system, depending on your heating needs. | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (65.74.66.104)
Rating: N/A |
Electical code also spells out amperage ratings for wire in high ambient temperatures, but I don't think it goes over 140 degrees. This means that 12 gauge will not be a 20 amp wire if located in a 160 degree duct. For what it's worth. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher | ||
| FAST FRED (4.245.191.150) Rating: N/A |
Custom Coach just dropped the wires on top of the duct , with no apparent problems. To reuse the stock ductwork you will need to plug the old air inlet for the duct. FAST FRED | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.208.104.135)
Rating: N/A |
Most wire is rated 90C which is 194F. At that temp, the wire cannot, according to code, carry any electricity since it is already at its maximum temperature no matter what its size is. This is a common problem in boilers and also in furnace rooms where much of the wire's capacity is used up by ambient temperature. FWIF Jim | ||
| Hugh Bavaro (Hbavaro)
Rating: N/A |
Any one have a suggestion on why my suburban heater stopped working. The push ignition switch works (shocked me), but it's not getting any propane. Could it be the thermocoupler? | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A |
Hugh, since you didn't say exactly what it is doing, it's a little hard to say which direction to start in. For instance, does it blow air when you turn up the thermostat? If it does, then you want to know if it lights at all. If it doesn't, then only two things can cause this. No gas or no spark. A lot of the time, the board has failed to turn on one or the other. But a stuck or bad gas valve or a bad ignition circuit can get you the same result. If it doesn't blow air, then no power is reaching the furnace or the thermostat is not closing its circuit. If you work at separating the symptoms, you should be able to figure out which problem you've got. If you should need a board, get a Dinosaur board instead of the Suburban manufacturer's replacement. They're available for around $100. Good luck. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher |