Author |
Message |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 6:35 pm: | |
I need to replace the fore and aft upper rubber shackles on my curb side drives' suspension on my Eagle 10 because the rubber is cracked badly. I plan on replacing the shackle and the eight allen head bolts that mount it in each one. My plan is to raise the coach frame until the two rear shock absorbers fully extend. This will unload the torsalastic and not allow the beam arm to move any lower. I then will cut the bolts on one shackle and remove and replace it. I then plan on doing the other one after the first one is tightened down. Does this sound like a doable plan? Anyone ever attempt this repair themselves? Under no circumstances do I want that beam arm to pull away from the shackle pivot arm. I'd never get it pulled back without some big tools and bars. Thanks for your input. David Anderson |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 6:57 pm: | |
I would talk to somebody that knows for sure...like LUKE....the torsalastic has mucho tension on it....enough to mash your head like a pimple |
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 10:57 pm: | |
Yes, this is one to pay for at least the first time so that you don't do something silly, like kill yourself. |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 3:04 pm: | |
I talked to Norris at Jefferson this morning. He didn't know how they relieve the tension. The shackles and hardware are $250 each, so the parts are $500. Getting the bolts out will be a huge chore. If I cut the heads I'll melt the rubber which is no big deal since they will be discarded. The heads are way low in the rubber so there will be lots of flame and smoke. I can't grind them, no room, can't unscrew, rusted nuts, can't cut with a sawsall, no room. I don't know what else to use. I'm going to keep asking around. David |
Sam Sperbeck
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 3:47 pm: | |
Hi David, I have NO experience with Eagles so this is just a shot in the dark. With the bus body jacked up, could you back off the suspension adjustment enough to release the tension on the shakle? Maybe a call to Southern Oregon Diesel would yield some information. 541-672-7400 I've heard that they work on Eagle suspension. Good Luck. Thanks, Sam Sperbeck La Crescent, MN |
Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 5:27 pm: | |
Hey.. a very cool blue color on your post. Looks good! |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 6:31 pm: | |
yeah...I don't get it...some are purple,some black,some blue....I thought I was haveing a flashback of the 70's................ |
S.M. Heath (Hotspring_44)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 8:48 pm: | |
David A, Re: ("Geting the bolts out will be a big chore")/. Have you considerd useing a high speed cutting wheel on a body grinder to cut or grind the nut end off? I've done it that way on p/u trucks. It takes more than 1 wheel but it worked for me. It was best to use very little force on the wheel, it took a long time. I'd probly use the torch if I had one. Have someone help you with a water hose handy & 2 fire extinguishers. you will be fine as long as you remoove any oil,grime, hoses, ecct. away from the imedate area of intense heat; & mabe a Welders heat Blanket wold be a good idia as well. Also: please be extra carefull lotsa tention & weight to work around. I wish you the best with that heavy job! S.M.H |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 9:52 pm: | |
S.M. The bolt heads are recessed so far into the shackle that the grinding wheel would have to be the size of a Dremel tool, very small. I'm going to Krause Bus in San Antonio and pick Byron Krause's brain to see how he does it. He may scare me into letting him do it, however. In looking at the torsion bar configuration, it appears I will have to back off the tension nuts and actually lower the springs. No big deal, but they will have to raised back up to the pre existing settings. Just a bunch of cranking on a 1 7/8" wrench. My biggest concern is cutting those bolts and properly unloading the springs. BTW,You can set your font colors by going to the formatting section of the board. David Anderson |
J.C. Barnett (Eagle)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 4:53 am: | |
Try some PB Blaster penetrating oil. |
S.M. Heath (Hotspring_44)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 11:27 pm: | |
David A, I guess that the Nut End is inaccessable to 7 or 10 inch dia. cutting/grinding wheel? S.M.H |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 12:15 am: | |
Talked to Larry at US Coach on Friday. The cracked rubber means nothing. It's just a coating. It's steel underneath. The integrity of the shackle isn't compromised. He said as long as the mounts look good and strong, I'm ok. Another problem solved. David Anderson |
Derek (Derek_l)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 12:31 am: | |
If only they were all that easy to solve. I sat there and looked at a seized engine for 3 whole hours, and it didn't unseize. I even talked to people about it, still wouldn't run... |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 9:37 am: | |
You're supposed to drink coffee while you stare at it. Gary |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 6:01 pm: | |
folgers |