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Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 9:00 am:   

I'd like to be able to change my tow dolly tail lights/TS to 24V when I want to use it with the bus.
I figure that if I had a 24 volt version of the 1157 bulb, I could just pop off the lenses and switch the bulbs on the dolly according to which vehicle that I'm towing with.
Anyone know if such a bulb is availabe and a part number?
J.L.Vickers

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 9:08 am:   

Bulb number is 1662
Larry Bennet (Eurof3)

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 9:16 am:   

Expect them to be between $12 and $15 each...
Anonyroach

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 9:55 am:   

Use those same #624s, bub.
Sojourner (Jjimage)

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 12:25 pm:   

As per Vicker...1662 is S8 28v double filament bayonet index type.
Available at
http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/catalog/cat0-1b.html

Under $2.00 plus shippment

For what it's worth.

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 2:29 pm:   

Thanks for the quick replies.
Now this is gonna seem wacky-I think theres a difference in the way that the 24V bulbs are made (Well, the one I robbed from my bus for the "experiment")......With an 1157 bulb, the two filaments are independent, and each enerigzed seperately by one of the contacts on the bottom of the bulb, and the ground is achieved through the brass "barrell" (i dont know what its really called)
With the 24 v bulb, it dosent ground thru the "barrell" , rather, one of the contacts on the bottom of the bulb is the ground and the other contact energizes both filaments at the same time.
the bulb I tested was 3081F GE. I also checked a 624 and it grounds the same way. If thats common for all 24V dual contact/filament bulbs, they wouldnt work to simply remove the 1157 and put in the 24 V equalivent.
Am I way off the mark,Or are oher 24v bulbs made differently?
FAST FRED

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 2:49 pm:   

Most 24 I have seen are similar to 12V eg two filaments and the case grounds.

The tiny hassle is the format is backwards . installed with the pins locked many times the 12v'running light circuit is firing the big Stop filament , and vica versa.

Either a second socket in the holder one for 12V format and the other for the 24V format, or if the plastic wont melt just putting 2 12V bulbs in series solves the hassle cheaply.

After you get it wired right!

Have fun!!!


FAST FRED
David Dulmage (Daved)

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 4:08 pm:   

Perhaps you could change the wiring at the light sockets, that is rewire the sockets so that the stop filament is connected to the stop light circuit and the tailight filament is connected to the tailight circuit.

Dave D
roachman

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 4:19 pm:   

I dink iffn' youse look reeeeel close, youse see dat der are two
pins (fils) and a ground (shield):

fil -M- fil
grnd|
is tween em'. Each long leg of dat "m" goes to der pin. Der middle
of der "m" goes to the shield.

Voltage to one side and grnd lights one side or der udder.
Voltage 'cross the two and not der grnd, lights both simultaneously.

Of cuz, youse shud ask 'roun cuz I might not know gear 'bout it.
Don/TX

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 7:09 pm:   

Chuck what I did to simplify pulling trailers, toads and whatever I wanted, was to let the 24v tail and stop circuits on the bus, actuate two little relays, which put 12V thru to the towed item. This assumes that you are going to have 12 avail on the bus somewhers anyhow. Worked great, and I had a pile of relays NOS from some charter company surplus sales so it was also free.
John that newguy

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Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 8:20 pm:   

Hey Chuck... That #1662 previously mentioned
looks about right!

All this sure makes for a good argument to convert
all lights to 12 volt!
FAST FRED

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Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 5:28 am:   

For loads of towing various loads the magnetic , stick on units work great.

You only need to set them up once for 24v and the world awaits.

FAST FRED
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)

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Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 4:37 pm:   

LED tail lights will work on 24 volts with a shorter life. If you add a resistor in the line to each bulb to set them up for closer to 24 volts, they will still look good on 12 volts. Since normal LED life is 100,000 hrs, that might work for you, even without the extra resistor. no noticable heat produced .

The bulbs you tested with are a different type. there are 12 volt bulbss that do not use the brass base at all in the circuit. You just want the 24 volt equivalent of an 1157. you may need to set up your trailer wiring for separate turn and brake lighting so you do not need a converter, if your bus is like mine and has separate circuits.

I haave 24 to 12 volt relays in my bus for all the trailer lights. The 12 volt draw got my engine batteries way out of balance until I added a separate Vanner Equalizer for engine batteries. I could have used 12 volt from the house batteries which did have an equalizer already.
Tim Strommen

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 7:00 pm:   

I presume that you are using the standard 4" round lights found on most tow dollies. If this is the case, I'd presume that the simplest solution to your problem would be using LED fixtures by A.L. Lightech which run on both 12 Volt AND 24 Volts.

The link to this Manufacturer is: http://www.allightech.com/4INCH%20RND.htm

I'm using mostly this brand fixture because I'm switching my 40' Gillig Transit from a 12 Volt to a 24 Volt (lighting) system, and didn't want to buy new fixtures three months down the road (I hate converting between one voltage or another, one word: Loss). The lights have built-in solid-state voltage regulators which are (from my bench tests) around 85% efficient, and work well from 9 Volts to 30 Volts.

I bought my fixtures from Steve at a company called The Lighthouse Inc.
www.thelighthouse.com

Have Fun!

Tim Strommen
Don/TX

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 7:41 pm:   

Thanks Tim, now THERE is a worthwhile post. I sure did not know that.
John that newguy

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 8:19 pm:   

Well.... after reading all the posts describing the efforts to run
12 volt lights on a car/trailer being towed by the bus with its
24 volt system....

I dunno guys, but I'm a guy of simple means.. Isn't it easier and
faster to simply make a tow harness with 12 volt bulbs in series
with each lead? 24 volts leaving the bus, going through the 12 volt
bulb in series with the 12 volt bulb it's going to illuminate?

All you'd need are some bulb sockets, 12v bulbs and a fist full of
connectors. It's a helluvalot easier than relays, or led conversions.
Don/TX

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 8:57 pm:   

I did that on a tow car light bar, but the problem is that some tend to pull trailers, tow dollys, toads, etc.
John that newguy

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 9:15 pm:   

Hmm..

24v bus> harness with 12v bulbs in series> to whatever's being towed.

With 12v bulbs in that harness (in series circuit), whatever's on the
final end is going to get 12 volts (that middle bulb isn't going to
light until that last one does and the combination will equal 24 volts).

I dunno... I didn't try it (yet), but it sure sounds ok to me...
Don/TX

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 9:44 pm:   

Sure, works like a charm. Some of the 24v bulbs, if you look closely inside, are really two 12v filaments wired that way. I suppose 12v filaments are readily available to the makers.
Of course you must realize, if one bulb goes out, so does the other one.
John that newguy

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Posted on Monday, November 08, 2004 - 9:50 pm:   

It'd be nice to mount the bulbs on a bar facing forward on the
driver's side. If one doesn't light, you'll know it needs attention.

Paint 'em green and they won't look like indicators.

(holy molie.. is this a big $$$ invention in the making?)
Don/TX

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Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 7:22 pm:   

John, lets delete that last post. Too good of an idea to share for free, we got to make bucks off of that.

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