| Author |
Message |
Jerry Pittman (Rudder)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 1:35 pm: | |
I would like to plug my Coach into my shop's
220 plug. will this work or be to much for the
Coach? Also what is 50 Amp and how does it compair to 220? I use the 220 to run Weilder and air comp. Thanks Jerry |
Gillig-Dan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 2:11 pm: | |
Sure it will work. The question about "too much" should be about the shop supply. The coach will draw whatever current is needed to run the items onboard. That current draw has to be less than the maximum the rating of your garage outlet. If your shop is fused (breaker protected) for 50 Amps, then if your coach demands more, your shop circuit will trip.
It's the high current items like air conditioning, electric hot water, electric heat, etc, that will cause high current usage in the coach.
If the garage was able to deliver more current than your coach can could or should use, a properly wired coach will have breakers to protect from over-current situations.
Gillig-Dan |
Jerry Pittman (Rudder)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 2:28 pm: | |
Thank You Dan,
I was hopeing that would be the answer.
I will be running lights,and 2 plugins,
no air or hot water.
Thx again Dan. Jerry |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 2:39 pm: | |
50 amp IS 220....the 50 amp r.v. plug however has 4 prongs...the additional one is for GROUND...since your bus sits on rubber...be sure & wire it correctly 'with' the four prond plug and receptical...otherwise as you are stepping into the bus..."YOU" make the ground...if your garage will run a welder...you have plenty of power to run the bus.. |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 4:19 pm: | |
Before you do much of anything I would suggest you find somebody that is knowledgable about electricity to give you some guidance directly, in person. Shure would save a lot of questions I think.
Richard |
Jerry Pittman (Rudder)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 6:39 pm: | |
Thank you Twodogs and Richard
I will have soneone hook it up for me .
Jerry |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 9:36 pm: | |
Some of the RV shops carry the adapter to plug
the rv 50 into any standard 220 outlet. |
Tim Wicentowich (Timkar)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 10:21 pm: | |
Just to be clear...50A is current draw, 220 is voltage. They do not compare. You can have a 50A 110 v outlet and you can have a 220v 15A outlet.
If you need two hot leads going in to your coach you can adapt your welder outlet, but if everything in your coach is 110 don't. A welder outlet has two hot leads and a ground. You need a neutral lead to get 110V. |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 10:33 pm: | |
50 amp RV service is 220. Each leg has 110.
One leg generally supplies power to one
AC unit, while the other supplies the rest
of the coach. |
Doldomite
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 10:36 pm: | |
How come everybody keeps saying "220" and "110" volts when it is actually 240 volts and 120 volts? |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 11:34 pm: | |
Because US electrical standards have a built-in variance, a minimuum supply of 110V is required, any less and things go overcurrent. the upper tolerance is 120/240, which is what is written on all the recepacles you buy. load handling equipment must be rated at the top of the tolerance.
If you measure the voltage at your nearest outlet, you will find it is probably 115-117 (At least that's my observation) I've heard almost as many references to 115 (Since it's in the middle of the tolerance) as I have 110 (Minimum Supply) and 120 (Minimum load capability).
Hope this make sense, it's friday night and my coherency tolerance is at it's limit.
Gary |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 11:36 pm: | |
Hello Doldomite.
You are correct, however...
It is a good habit to use 110 and 220 when referring to the Alternating Current circuits.
Our coaches often have 12 and 24 volt Direct Current circuits.
Should you have some sort of typo, or when making drawings for your coach schematics, it might be too easy to mix up which 12/120 and 24/240 you might be referring to.
110/115/117/120/130 are all numbers that I have seen stamped on manufacturers' plates on various appliances.
As noted, just using 110/220 has its merits to reduce confusion for those who are not as intense in their electrical knowledge.
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 11:40 pm: | |
oh, and what about AC? which one?
power?
cooling?
actor?
car?
spark plugs?
negative spiritual force?
beware the confusion over a misunderstood acronym!
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 7:37 am: | |
The 24 volt system and bulbs, are all 28 volt
and take a 32 volt hit everytime the battery's
being charged. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 9:40 am: | |
Just to confuse the issue further, there are more than twenty 'standard approved' 220 volt plugs. It is illeagle and unsafe to use a 220 volt 3 wire plug to an RV although it is the approved plug for most small welders.
Various adapters are available and also are easy to make. Just make sure that the person doing it knows what they are doing. |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 11:00 am: | |
"there are more than twenty 'standard approved' 220 volt plugs."
--Yeah, WAY more.
Gary |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 5:26 am: | |
"The 24 volt system and bulbs, are all 28 volt
and take a 32 volt hit everytime the battery's
being charged"
Time for a new Voltage regulator .
The 24V system should sit with about 25V after good charge , and at about 28.5 while charging.
(Just as a "12V" sustem will sit with 12.8 and charge between 13.6 and 14,8 V)
32V is 8 V over system norms and will boil the batt set in quick time.
FAST FRED |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 7:24 am: | |
Better read your MCI manual Fred.
It's 28 / 32. And that's what the regulator's set to.
It also rhymes. |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 9:08 am: | |
There's your problem. It'snot supposed to rhyme.
Seriously, it's not spiking when you have the meter on it, i'd guess.
Gary |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 10:35 pm: | |
John that newguy,
Does your MCI use a temperature compensated regulator? If it does, then the 32 volts might be possible, but only for a very short time.
I have seen some varieties of regulator that go that high, but only for five minutes or so and within 15 minutes they are back down to normal voltages.
I was just studying my inverter temperature/ voltage charge an hour ago, and the acceptance voltage for our 24 volt system was 28.8 at 60 degrees. That's the highest the voltage goes.
With sealed lead acid batteries, the voltage can go a little higher but 32 sounds awfully high. I guess if you've got the manual and that's what it says, there's probably a reason for it.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 10:54 pm: | |
Right, Tom.....
The 32v is only for a short period during initial startup. 28 volts is
the normal operating voltage. Since all "24v" bulbs are rated for 28v,
there isn't much of a problem. It's that 32v kick that may pop one
now and then, but the failed bulb was likely ready to fail soon anyway.
The manual states that the water level should be watched and if the
loss is excessive, the regulator should be adjusted to provide for
the least amount of loss of water.
I had just replaced a battery and had been concerned that the
new battery appeared to be boiling out the water. After seeing the
32 volts, I grabbed the manual to learn the right way to adjust the
voltage. There wasn't any need to.
I did charge each 8D individually to full capacity and reconnected the
two. Still at 32 initially, but no appreciable boil over. In fact, I haven't
had to add water the past month. And yes... I run the bus daily.
Cheers! |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 14, 2004 - 11:20 pm: | |
Will you gas at 32 volts on a batt just used to start the bus? I'd think that the short term capacity to absorb a charge under those conditions would be so great that gassing wouldn't result.
You'd get a faster charge for a little while, maybe?
You get equalizing charges of high voltages after the "float rate" the the batt is pretty full of charge, IIRC.
Comments?
Marc Bourget |
Jtng
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 8:14 am: | |
How 'bout them Red Sox, ehh? |
bowlingshoegiverouter
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 8:29 am: | |
I have only one red one and one blue one |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 8:55 am: | |
With nothing else on but your white skivvies, it must be quite a
patriotic sight!
Pardon me if I don't watch you salute. |
Derek (Derek_l)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2004 - 12:51 pm: | |
What, you're not sending the $50? Those aren't skivvies, they're skimpies. |