| Author |
Message |
Mike (Busone)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 4:35 pm: | |
Has anybody ever tried Amsoil in their bus or car. I need to change the oil in my wifes car and I am thinking about trying it. |
H3 (Ace)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 5:15 pm: | |
A lot of the guys I know use the Amsoil 2 stroke racing oil in our R/C cars but personally, it carbons up to much making me think it is a dirty oil!
Ace |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 6:01 pm: | |
I used Amsol Synthetic in my pickup at mid point in a 400 mile trip. I got 1.5 MPG more on the return trip. That was the sole change and the temps were pretty much the same.
But, that was 10+ years ago.
Onward and Upward
Marc Bourget |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 6:14 pm: | |
I know of one case where syunthetic oil junked a brand new ($) classic motor.
I don't know about you guys, but until I have real specific data for my exact applications.
I is a'scared of it, and will stick with dino-juice.
Gary |
Ed Skiba (Ednj)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 6:19 pm: | |
Ok guys check out this site,I only read the humor section.lol
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi |
John Rigbyj
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 6:26 pm: | |
I use Royal Purple in the engine , rear end and transmission on my 4104. Totaly Synthetic.
John |
Marc Schlabach
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 8:16 pm: | |
I have amsoil in all my engines but the bus . It leaks too much to use it in there. I have it in my Izuzu genset which was ok with the manufacturer. I have two dodge rams that gained nearly three miles per gallon in 1500 miles. The service manager at our local dodge dealership has amsoil in his vehicles. I change it a lot more often than they recommend and still cost less than petrolium oils. Engines run cooler too. |
Bill K.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 8:43 pm: | |
Marc: Are the Dodges Diesel or gas? |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2004 - 9:38 pm: | |
I wonder if 2 stroke oil mixed with diesel, because its intended to burn, won't exhibit the bad effects of crankcase oil added to diesel?
Marc |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 5:54 am: | |
Diesel is a great lubricant , why add oil?
FAST FRED |
jimmci9 #2
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 7:11 am: | |
personally i would not use amsoil to grease a bicycle chain.. on the other hand, i've used royal purple motor oil in the 3412 caterpillar 750-1000 hp quad turbo engines ive built.....but these engines are on a STRICT maintianence schedule.... |
Johnny
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 8:27 am: | |
I've heard plenty about Amsoil...nothing bad except "it's too pricey". My boss is considering Amsoiling 2 wreckers at work (2001 F-550, 1979 International S1800). Change the filter and have it analyzed every 10,000 miles, change when they say to (probably 30-40K), it will probably go forever. |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 9:24 am: | |
I recall an initial study done on Mobil 1 by a company engineer. New Lincoln, 100,000 mile test. Simply changed a filter and added a quart each time, forget whether 3000 or 6000 miles. The engine was disassembled after 100K was reached and dimensions checked. The "wear" parts were still within factory new tolerances.
I felt that was really impressive.
Marc |
BrianMCI
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 1:06 pm: | |
I don't know a whole lot about Amzoil, but I first started running Mobil 1 in different vehicles back in 1978.
I have nothing but good things to say for Mobil 1
Over the years the only criteria I've used for deciding whether or not a vehicle got Mobil 1 (other than a OEM recommendations) was the condition of the engine.
If it doesn't leak or burn any oil, I'll put Mobil 1 in it.
I've run Mobil 1 in high performance motorcylces as well.
Over time, in engines that I've switched over, I've noticed (and I'm paid to listen to engines) that with Mobil 1 the engines reach high RPMs quicker... Leading me to conclude there must be a significant enough reduction of friction with a synthetic motor oil for it to be noticable.
Brian |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 1:25 pm: | |
It was Mobil1 that destroyed a newly built, balanced and blueprinted 5-main MGB engine. All I know is there was a lump of coagulated sludge in the bottom of the pan, along with the remnants of the bearings.
These guys were not hillbillies either, they were among the best british builders currently consuming oxygen. It was about a $10K learning experience.
It's dino juice for me.
Gary |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 2:06 pm: | |
The only down side I know of on synthetics is they suck in a stored engine.
Thrash it daily and synthetics are for you!
Don't run it from month to month and with synthetics you have a very very OLD rustblock in short order.
The ability to drain rapidly , as the rings scrape the cylinder walls is great , and gives most of the milage or HP improvement.
But that is working AGAINST you in sitting , the cylinder walls get dry and rust rapidly.
The right oil for YOUR job probably would be best.
In a tranny its GREAT!
FAST FRED |
Jayrjay
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 9:08 pm: | |
As an old time 1800cc MGB engine tuner/racer, (in "B's", TVR's, Marcos', etc.) the common mistake in a re-build is to forget to pull all of the welsh plugs before boiling it. Especially the rear one. I ruined my first one at the tender age of 19, (I'm 60 now) with a "big gob of sludge" that came out of the casting hole after re-assembly. There is an old Morris Garages manual on "refitment" that covers the problem, and the cure. Tell them I'll sell them mine for 6,5, and 3. If they are real "Englishmen" they'll know how much to send. Cheers...JJ |
Lin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 9:36 pm: | |
I once switched a perfectly good cab to Mobile 1. I believe it cost me the engine because I was too stubborn to switch back. May it is okay for a new engine though. |
L. R. Taft (Larryk2lt)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 9:38 pm: | |
JJ,
Ever pop the hood on a TVR put together by John Griffith from Long Island? I had one is the 60's and it was like being fired from a cannon when I dropped the hammer. 289 cu at 271 HP with a Ford Industrial sticker on the engine. It was almost a good car.
LarryK2LT |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 10:08 pm: | |
Fred, I'll tell you about Amzoil "in a tranny"... on my first bus an "expert" (a tranny rebuilder!) talked me into putting amzoil tranny oil into my 5 speed Clarke that I'd just had rebuilt to install an overdrive, promising me that I'd get a little better performance due to less friction.
The result? A total rebuild of a virtually NEWLY REBUILT transmission was needed AGAIN in less than 10,000 miles!!! You should have heard it whine at about 8000 miles, and seen the pits and wear in the gears... it was horrible! After having to pay for a SECOND rebuild, I put in good old OIL and it went for 150,000 more miles without a squeak. (Then the bus went to the Ex in a divorce and her new boyfriend ran it into a mountain 2 months later... bye bye bus, too bad....)
I'll NEVER touch the stuff or anything from Amzoil again... It's "poo"....although I'm not so stubborn...I did get married again... twice now... |
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2004 - 10:52 pm: | |
Gary,
What exactly made you blame the oil rather than a poor rebuild? |
BrianMCI
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 12:46 am: | |
I gotta say, I'm in agreement with Greg, over the past 25 years you hear it all, and JJ's post is the perfect example.
People, rebuilt is not NEW... While the failure rate for most rebuilds is relatively low, failures do happen.
Let me count the ways...
Over-torqueing
forgotten torqueing
missing bolt
loose drain plug
bolt head snaps off (after assembly)
" " (during assembly)
" " (during disassembly)
snap ring not seated
snap ring missing
Bearing and race installed backwards
Rag left in the pan
Silicon tube left in the pan
missing o-ring...
missing dowel pin
and a list too long to complete...
The point is, even the best mechanic is human.
It is easy to blame the oil...
I've just never seen an oil related failure in a properly maintained vehicle.
Brian |
Johnny
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 1:05 am: | |
Absolutely no complaints here about Mobil 1. I run their 0W-40 in my 542ci stroker Cadillac, & my wife's fire-breathing, 650HP turbo Buick (272ci Stage II V6) gets 5W-50. Both cars are parked for about 5 months every year (they went in the garage until spring last week) to keep the salt off the bodies.
In her Buick's old 231ci V6, the oil once hit over 350 degrees (80-85MPH, mountains, 90 degrees with A/C running, no oil cooler). We changed it the next day, & sent out a sample to be analysed & see if we cooked anything. Not only was the engine fine (it went another 40,000 miles before getting pulled for the Stage II), the analysis also reported the oil was fine. Yes, the car now has an oil cooler.
My bus will probably get Mobil 5W-50 when the engine is broken in (currently has 15W-40 conventional).
Lin: Her GN had over 100,000 miles on regular oil when she switched to Mobil 1. Other than seeping valve cover gaskets (easy $10 fix), no problems. |
niles
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 1:57 am: | |
Brian - your list of possible causes of rebuild failures is only surpassed by the list of possible reasons for the failure of marriages - wish we could blame that on lubrication - Niles |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 11:24 am: | |
It has been brought to my attention that the use of the word "Hillbillies" to describe very non-sophisticated mechanics is offensive to some.
I profusely apologise, I had no idea that some identify with the word and would consider it as a personal attack.
I will refrain from the use of this term in the future.
Gary |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 11:45 am: | |
Greg, a few things.
One, the same person did both rebuilds and he was the lead man for a large well reputed truck transmission company here in town. I watched him do the work both times, and he knew what he was doing.
Two, the wear on the first go around was transmission-wide. It was all the gear teeth becoming pitted in the entire tranny. The overdrive gears were worst, and they were the gear I drove most in. As the gears were used less, the wear was less. It would be difficult to rebuild a tranny poorly and create that kind of wear other than if you left abarasive grit in the tranny which he did not.
Three, the guy, on the second rebuild, did not know that I'd used amzoil. upon opening it up, he said "wow, what kind of oil have you been using" as his first comment..... |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 11:58 am: | |
In My case, as in (The other) Gary's, the guys that did the rebuild were beyond question. I grew up on MGs received BL training as an apprentice, and these guys are the best and most professional I have ever known.
The failure was not a single component in the engine, but a systematic lubrication failure.
This was not a "Rebuilt" engine, but a full-boogie race engine built from the ground up. These guys build these every day, they know every trick and I daresay have a few of their own.
I may use synthetics someday, but it will be at a recommendation of the manufacturer or because of an overwhelming amount of evidence that I will somehow benifit over petrochemical oils.
Gary |
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 4:16 pm: | |
Both of you (both Gary's) certainly make one question using the synthetics. It sure makes me wonder why it works fine in some and not in others??? |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 5:50 pm: | |
Well, for me it's just like my butter vs margarine philosophy-- humans have been eating butter for tens of thousands of years so our bodies know what to do with it...margarine has only been around for a hundred or so, so it wreaks havoc with our bodies because our systems see it as something they don't really know what to do with properly--thus creating vascular problems, etc...
Good old motor oil and gear oil have been around a long time, have excellent track records, and they simply work. The synthetics may "somtimes" perform better, but they are at the mercy of the whim of the chemist that's making them, don't have extremely long track records, and year to year they change with "improvements" that quite often are just the opposite... and it's us, the public, that get to be the test rats...
Some things are best if improved, but good old mother nature is hard to beat sometimes!!! |
Ed Skiba (Ednj)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 6:16 pm: | |
I’ve rebuilt a few engines here’s what I found. Engines such as Harley’s have roller bearing on the crank; mobil-1 is too slippery for that. The rollers just slide instead of rolling that’s why they (Harley) use Teflon based synthetic
. I don’t know if your imports have rollers but that maybe the problem. You may need a semi rather than pure Synthetic |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 6:24 pm: | |
Gary,
If you think the chemistry of non-ester based synthetics are signifcantly different (base oil, not additive package) from regular oil your opinion may not change but you might benefit from a little further research.
When Mobil 1 came out there were some excellently written articles on the subject.
I'm not trying to defend any position on the MGB experience, btw, (not enough info)
Marc |
BrianMCI
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 8:36 pm: | |
Synthetic oil ate my tranny!
Synthetic oil wrecked my engine!
You can believe what you want, but synthetics aren't made out of man-made mystery juice.
Here's just one of the articles on synthetics that explains why the troubles you've encountered had nothing to do with your oil...
Ten Myths About Synthetic Motor Oils
Synthetic motor oils have been the object of numerous misconceptions held by the general public. Many people, including some mechanics, have been misled by these persistent myths.
The Synthetic Oil Debate
Synthetic motor oils are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select base stocks and special purpose additives. Synthetic oil base stocks are made from organic compounds or synthetic hydrocarbons using a process that re-arranges the structure so all the molecules are uniform in size, shape and weight, a phenomenon that does not occur in nature. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.
In responding to the objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?
In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled here ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.
Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.
Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Synthetic oils are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").
For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Synthetic oils cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.
Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Syntheticmotor oils are not readily available.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.
Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.
Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.
Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.
Synthetic oil can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.
Synthetic oils void warranties.
Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.
New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.
In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.
Synthetic oils last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dillution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.
However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.
Synthetic oils are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.
In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
Conclusions on Synthetic Motor Oil
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.
But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.
Synthetic Oil
--------------------------------------------------
For all intents and purposes synthetic oil IS regular oil, not some chemists brew!
But while 'regular' oil is refined crude oil, synthetic oil base stock basically is refined to the extent that it has the best possible lubricating qualities.
There is no quality of regular oil that isn't matched by synthetics or significantly surpassed by them.
I've been a mechanic over 25 year and can state without eqivocation that I have never seen a failure in any properly maintained vehicle that was related to oil, synthetic or otherwise.
And I don't believe either of your failures were due to oil.
Margerine vs Butter?
Maybe it was hardening of the arteries!(grin)
Since the advent of motor oil the formulas used have changed constantly... Remember those carboard motor oil cans... well, if you still have a full one... that formula is long done, and is no longer being sold.
And, while the history of synthetics is relatively short, it is still over thirty years since the introduction of first synthetic to the market and now there is a multitude of synthetics and synthetic blends to choose from.
Brian |
Don/TX
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 9:17 pm: | |
This has been an interesting discussion. I respect your views, all of you, but I just have to add some fuel to the fire for what it is worth. I am an ASE certified engine mechanic, and was overhauling engines LONG before synthetics arrived. My experience to date makes me one who would not oil my bicycle chain with Amsoil either.
I owned and ran an auto repair facility when Amsoil was first announced. My next door neighbor became a distributor, and soon bought a new Ford pickup, 351 powered. He instantly put Amsoil in it to prove its value and went about selling. He brought his truck to me with less than 40,000 miles for service. A teardown of the engine showed a totally worn out engine, and that stuff he called Amsoil was obviously doing no lubricating. Inserts were worn badly, bore was very bad, camshaft bearings were shot, lifter bores were worn beyond repair, the Amsoil looked like crap.
Not long thereafter I got additional business from others who used his product.
Might be lots of differences since then, but I don't think I will ever use it.
This old dog don't need new tricks. |
Mike (Busone)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 9:54 pm: | |
Well after talking to some mechanic friends and considering what I have read here I bought Mobil 1. I will let you all know how if I need an engine rebuild or if I save some money on gas. |
Johnny
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 10:35 pm: | |
On the Turbo Diesel Register, there are plenty of people running Amsoil 150-200,000+ miles on some seriously hard-working trucks. |
Don/TX
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 11:16 pm: | |
I put synthetic in the transmisson and differentials of my Kenworth, temp sensors on all three showed marked drop in temps, especially on long hard pulls. To me that proved there was indeed less friction. |
pat opertive
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2004 - 11:39 pm: | |
-This is one of the longest threads I have seen recently. Haveing been retired from a heavy duty lubricant company I have read every post on this subject. Brian mci has given the most rational opinions of synthetics. A few poins of interest,one of the greatest benafit of the synthetic oil is it's pour point, if you live in Billings, Montana come winter you would enjoy the true benafit of the oil. Secondly every lubricant company purchases from ethal corp or other chemical companies a specific package of anti foam, anti oxidant ect ect ect for their particular brand also example the 2 stroke dd requires a differant ash amount than a four stroke engine. OK fact is most of the package is worn out or FILTERED OUT in 7500 or so miles. What makes you think you can out smart the people who made the oil and contaminate the oil with snake oil additives. Thats another subject. |
Lin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 21, 2004 - 2:59 am: | |
Interesting information. Although I do not feel the desire to switch to a synthetic, I admit that my experience with Mobil 1 was over 20 years ago (seems like yesterday), and the stuff may be vastly better now. As a matter of fact, the fact sheet above has made me want to buy a quart to use with my breakfast cereal. |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 21, 2004 - 5:40 am: | |
"There is no quality of regular oil that isn't matched by synthetics or significantly surpassed by them."
WRONG!
They suck at rust prevention , as previously noted.
FAST FRED |
John Rigbyj
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 21, 2004 - 7:18 am: | |
If you change to sythetic be aware change the oil filter every 1000 miles at first. The sythetic cleans up the engine and dumps all the dirt in the filter. If your not careful the filter gets clogged and starts starving the engine of oil.
John |
BrianMCI
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 21, 2004 - 8:53 am: | |
More wives tales from Fred... I'd like to see some information that coroborates your claim.
There is no rust prevention problem with synthetics that I'm aware of, nor is there any info available on the net to support your claim.
John might be on to something if (but only IF) the engine in question has not be properly maintained with conventional oils in the past...
Brian |
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