Synthetic tranny fluid revisited.... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Edit Profile

BNO BBS - BNO's Bulletin Board System » THE ARCHIVES » Year 2004 » December 2004 » Synthetic tranny fluid revisited.... « Previous Next »

Author Message
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, December 26, 2004 - 8:36 pm:   

Well. Harrumph. After all my ranting on the evils of synthetic fluid for a manual transmission, I come across this tidbit on the Eaton Fuller site when looking at their autoshift models (which are basically computer controlled manual trannys)

"...Covered by the same Roadranger® warranty as the standard 18-speed transmission. Synthetic lube required. See Warranty Guide TCWY-0900..."

Oh well, so much for my old hat thoughts...

:-)
Marc Bourget

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, December 26, 2004 - 9:04 pm:   

The new synchro material is the basis for that, I believe!
BrianMCI

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 12:12 am:   

I keep telling you guys, synthetic oil isn't like some kind of mystery goo, it starts out with the very best base stocks available...

It's sort of like the difference between sliding a box across a floor covered with dried peas or covered in ball bearings.

Sure the box will slide across the floor over the peas, but depending on the load in the box, the peas are going to break down much faster than the ball bearings.

AND the box will require less effort and slide farther over the ball bearings

Synthetic is just the best oil there is, the best lubrication there is, and I believe eventually, gradually, almost everything will require synthetic oil.

Brian
+Always Positive + (Mr_positive)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 1:23 am:   

Mr Positive says slick is best !
To be positive, synthetic is the only way to go.
Spare no expense on fluids. And change them as recommended. And never be in doubt as to what if I had used the best fluids.
Synthetic-Positively the best !

Mr Positive
Todd Amon (Teqsand)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 1:48 pm:   

Does anyone know the proper way to adjust the clutch on my 4104? i get grinding between gears :-(
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 2:22 pm:   

There are no synchronizers in the 4104 tranny. Unless you know how to properly double clutch, you will have grinding gears. There is a good article by RJ Long in the archives explaining how to properly double clutch.
Jim-Bob (Pd41044039)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, December 27, 2004 - 7:28 pm:   

Especially if you try to shift it fast like a big truck! The 4104 came with a different governor than the trucks. There is a rythem or cadence to how fast it will shift. RJ's paper describes it very well but you need miles to get it down.
Jim-Bob
FAST FRED

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 5:24 am:   

Continuing the above thread , I have found its worth while to go and make a print out of the graphs avilable from Darris's fine board for EACH gear.

Simple examination will show how far down the RPM must drop to snick into the next gear.

GM used fairly low idle speeds to have a low enough oil pressure to enable the air cond compressor to engage.
(Low oil pressure was REQUIRED to allow the system relays to function).

Some folks have bumped the idle speed up to see better oil pressure at idle warm.

This slows the RPM decay , causing a longer wait to shift sans tooth grinding.

Solve anyones shifting problem?

FAST FRED
Jim-Bob (Pd41044039)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 - 11:22 am:   

Hot idle speed is about 500 RPM for a 4104.
"RPM decay" is exactly what I was talking about.
Stock 4104s had no tach, but shift by the speedometer. The road speeds are roughly 20, 30 & 50 depending on the axle ratio. They don't really want to shift at other speeds/RPMs but after you drive it 4-5000 miles, you get the feel of it.
I found mine upshifts best when I use clutch to neutral, then light pressure on the shifter (just enough to feel the teeth). This finds the next gear at any road speed.
I clutch to neautral coming to a stop, then slide her into first at about 2-3 mph, then quickly put the clutch in & stop.
Downshifting works just like RJ says.

None of this will work if the throttle cable is sticky or the governor is not adjusted properly. I found that the strength of the throttle return spring on the engine makes a big difference.

Lastly, some days you will "grease" every shift, and others you will grind some. You will be much smoother at the end of your 1200 mile trip than when you start out.

Each bus is a little different. When you get in some other bus, you have to get the feel of that one. Might be a little slower or faster to respond.

I have seen older professional drivers (from the days when there were few automatics)shift so well you could not tell it was a standard shift.
Jim-Bob

Add Your Message Here
Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration