| Author | Message | ||
| Jim in California Rating: N/A |
Folks, One of my conversion candidate shells is an MCI7 with that drivetrain. First, do I understand right that the Roadranger is a top setup for both milage and towing? I need to get it set up to handle up to 8,000lb range or more in trailer weight and yes, I've been reading the threads about hitch weight issues and am resigned to using something weird like the "Hitch Buddy" or similar. Second, if I wanted to later switch to some other motor of a four-stroke persuasion of at least 325/350hp, any guess what'll bolt to a Roadranger and fit back there? DD Series 50? Cummins Big Cam 400? Thoughts? Are there any gotchas to the MCI7 versus the more common 9? I actually like how it has a large rear window versus the more modern layout...makes a nice bedroom window  . | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
Jim, The Roadranger would give you a wider choice of gear ratios making it better for pulling loads if you had to extract the last few % points of performance. Assuming no knee problems with the driver [clutch operation issues]. But we aren't told how heavy the trailer can get. One conversation at Bussin'2005 detailed why the large trucking companies are switching to autos - lack of competent driver pool. Having jammed (short term)10 and 13 speed Roadranger's for a living, it's not an issue to me. The big 4 strokes, along with the DD 2 strokes, all use SAE std. bellhousings. Adaptation is not a problem. You just have to obtain and assemble the proper pieces. If you're contemplating a 4 stroke in your future, focus in on a RTO version, to avoid the desire to replace the tranny a second time if/when you switch to the 4 stroke. Ignoring age, possible integral steering [depending on year of -9, and the penchant for the 7's structural cracking up front in the area of the top of the "D" window, it's "condition, condition, condition" issue. I'm stripping out my second MCI-9 (didn't have enough fun stripping the first!) There's lots of stuff hidden away that you'll want to clean up if you plan on having any "history" with your conversion. An extra 8+ years of hair, grime, and skin flakes only accentuates that problem. The second MCI-9 was pretty clean outside, but I've encountered serious rust issues in the rear cap. The side skins don't have the corrosion problem of the first. Seeing how much water the fiberglas insulation can "wick" and the damage it causes, anybody that consideres a converstion shell more than a "throw away" or needs superior insulation performance will want to remove and replace the shear plates and switch out the fiberglas, To anybody converting a MCI, A visit to Arcadia would be beneficial in order to crawl around the two de-skinned MCI's at Jack Conrad's house and the hulks left over from the "Walker Coach" abominations. The latter points bear on the decision between choosing the -7 or the -9 Onward and Upward | ||
| Jim in California Rating: N/A |
I appreciate the help, but...you're using a lot of unfamiliar terms. Can you translate "RTO version" please? I understand about checking for rust. But when you say "remove and replace the shear plates", what are those exactly? I've seen the Walker Coach website...can you clarify "abominations"? Is this a reference to improper roof lifting, or a weirdly done engine mount setup for their DD Series 50/60 engine conversions? I have suspected that some of the "roof raise" jobs seen done by both amateurs and pros are...a bad idea in terms of harm to the structural integrity. My attitude is "if it's at least 6.6 inch inside leave it stock, otherwise be DAMNED sure it's lifted right". I don't need the "Euro Provost Post-Modern Bordello On Wheels" look, fake or otherwise. I've dealt with double-clutching in tow trucks and a 10sp shift doesn't scare me. Not near as much as "structural cracking up front in the area of the top of the "D" window" does! Ummmm...which one is the "D" window and just where do I look for cracks? And is it fixable or better yet, preventable?! | ||
| Stan Rating: N/A |
I will just comment on your questions that I have personal knowledge of. The MC-7 is the strongest structure that MCI built. It was their first 40' coach and was over engineered. It weighs a lot more than a MC-9 with the added weight in the structure. It did not have any of the structural problems that were common in busses. All busses with front entrance door are prone to breaking the top frame rail just behind the door. On the driver's side there is a heavy rail below the window to provide more support. The entire front of the bus ahead of the front axle is hanging from the roof. Lots of busses have had a fish plate welded in this area. One drawback to an MC-7 conversion is that it is a depressed center aisle. When the aisle is covered with a new floor there is reduced head room without a roof raise. The advantage of this is the now vacant aisle is available for running utility lines. | ||
| TWO DOGS Rating: N/A |
ya' don't have to double clutch a 10 speed....don't even use the clutch except in low & reverse | ||
| Jim in California Rating: N/A |
Stan, thank you much. Very clear so far. Ohhhhhkay. Does anybody know what the floor to ceiling height is in the "center aisle" versus the rest of the floor? And how wide is the center aisle? And finally, are there raised wheelwells in the floor on an MCI7? Because...seems to me that as long as there's at least 1.5ft width in the center aisle, and as long as there's 6'2" or so in the higher areas where the seats were, I could live with that. Esp. if as I suspect there's no wheelwells. My floorplan calls for as many extra-wide bunks as I can cram in. If the center walkway is on the narrow side, that's OK, the main thing is that the bunks be wide enough for at least a friendly couple . If the bunks are as wide as a typical intercity double seat setup, well that's about perfect. Here's the initial concept floorplan: http://www.equalccw.com/motorcyclebuslayout.gif (Note: there's "Harley" references as Sturgis-type trips were a thought, but I think dirtbikers are a bigger market...) It turns out I'm better off all around dropping it from eight double bunks to six...and making sure I've got travelling seats for 12 - 13 MAX plus my driver's seat. That way I avoid commercial licence issues for me and the rig both, and THAT means I can run a DD 2-stroke powerplant in California and can legally do all this on a limo licence and a non-commercial vehicle (which can include an RV). With only six double bunks the level of luxury can go up - better galley w/ double fridge, single good toilet separate from a single good shower, etc. At $100 per couple per day including motorcycle towing, extra gas in the trailer, other features specific to dirtbike play weekends, etc. the "profit potential" is still decent and I'm not looking to make a killing here, just have some fun partially recouping the cost of the rig. (I'll run a hammock over the driver's seat area for me to sleep in.) As I'll need abnormally big water tanks in the 200gal fresh and matching gray/black range (dirtbikers are gonna need it, including an outside shower "hosedown"!), so if the MCI7 is "overbeefy" that's sounding pretty damn good. | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj)
Rating: N/A |
Here is a very specific transmission engineering concern. While normally the Roadrange of choice (in my humble opinion, since I have one) would be the RTO-910, your desire/requirement to tow a very heavy trailer has me... ...wondering if the close-ratio RT-910/RTO-910 model would have a low enough starting gear to let you start rolling without straining the clutch, particularily since the 8V71 family is well known for NOT having a lot... ...of bottom end torque. Perhaps, in this particular application, and since you wish to keep the tranny if you do a future engine change to a 4-stroke, a later model O.D. 10-speed with slightly wider gears might be more appropriate. Go to www.roadranger.com and cruise the site. Fuller/Eaton has literally dozen of models that will work for you. Again, the RTO-910 has very close gears. OK for just a coach, but maybe not OK if you have a high combined weight. I start my Crown Super Coach ex-schoolie in second gear. But then again, right now the bus is in a very light condition. Fully loaded as a converted RV, I will probably start in first. Yeah, super close gears indeed. Probably too close for your needs. You will want a 10-speed Roadranger with low enough holes to normally start in second gear, even while towing your planned heavy trailer. Plus an overdrive if your do an engine change. Good luck ROADRANGERS FOREVER!!! | ||
| Craig (Ceieio)
Rating: N/A |
The good news is that a DD 60 will fit in a MC7. Check this one out http://www.hbindustries.ws/Buses_for_Sale.htm It looks like a tight squeeze, but it is in there. Neat idea on the motorcycle gig. That is one of the things we use our bus for. All of us dirtbike so that helped sell the idea of a bus to my wife. Our 6 1/2 by 10 trailer with four dirt bikes in it is not that heavy (compared to the bus!). We're only hauling 4 bikes and people, so not much of a comparison to your plans. I still need to rig up an outside shower. Good luck with your project. | ||
| Jim in California Rating: N/A |
Yeah, I'm familiar with that HBI page and I'm potentially interested in that bus. But further down is one with an 8V71 and Roadranger for about $10k less. That puppy has me interested too. Much depends on other "condition factors" of course. That current scratchpad floorplan is just a concept sketch. It's obvious now that dropping to six large double bunks and six Harleys or 10+ dirtbikes (assuming some are "kid sized") helps logistics, legalities and even comfort. A LOT. I sketched out what a six-bed layout might look like: http://www.equalccw.com/motorcyclebus6bed.gif That has a MAJOR effect on comfort issues. Beds get bigger, more storage...kitchen is a wee bit tighter with this layout but still not bad. And there's exactly 12 passenger seats for the 12 total bed spaces, plus driver's seat, and less than the 15 that would make it a "commercial license required" situation. Yeah. This works. |