| Author | Message | ||
| James A Womble (Bubbabusnut) (216.80.159.170)
Rating: N/A |
what is the accepted way to pull a vehicle 4 wheels down? do you lock the steering collum or let it turn with the bus? thanks | ||
| Randy (209.63.122.137) Rating: N/A |
You need to un-lock the steering wheel. If you don't, you get to buy tires more often  | ||
| Scott Whitney (63.151.68.130) Rating: N/A |
I read something in an RV mag tonight about towing a Jeep with manual tranny. The columnist recommended unlocking the hubs, putting the transfer case in neutral and the tranny in gear. When I tow my old Jeep, I put both tranny and transfer case in neutral. What would be the reason for leaving the tranny in gear on an old 4WD like that? The article was referring to a CJ7. I have an M38A1 which is about as basic as 4WDs get. Thx. Scott | ||
| madbrit (216.67.207.119) Rating: N/A |
First off the steering must be unlocked. Then it all depends upon the vehicle you are towing. Most manual trans 2 wheel drives can be towed in neutral, whilst 4 wheel drives are a totally different ball game. Later Jeep and Dodge 4x4 products can be towed only following the operators handbook instructions of what to do with the transfer case and trans and in which order. Ford 4x4s need the trans reprogrammed on the later models. I have been told that a CJ-5 with a Dana 20 t/case and stick shift is best towed with one front hub engaged and the t/case in neutral. This apparently turns the front drive shaft slowly and gives enough oil splash to lube the rear output bearing. So, as you can see, it all depends upon how the transfer case rear output bearing is lubed. So find out what you have and get expert advice, and that doesn't always mean the Dealer either. We have a 2001 Dakota 4x4 and the Dealer said it could not be towed all 4 down. In the owners manual, not even in the index, I found the instructions on how to set the t/case to neutral and how to tow it all 4 down. Often a 4x4 with an auto is towed with the trans in Park to stop the trans being turned by the driveshaft slowly by friction and oil drag. A lot of 4x4 owners can now get freewheeling hubs for the rear axle too, which cures all the problems. These are made by Warn Industries. 2 wheel drive and also 4x4 can also install driveshaft disconnects to achieve the same thing. I have just gone through this whole mess with Jeeps (CJ-7) having not been able to tow my GMC K15 with part-time 4x4. One of the most popular cars for towing is the Saturn which can be towed all 4 down, but as I said before, check with someone who knows your car and that it can be successfully towed. A good example of bad advice is: I asked on a 4x4 BB about towing with Dana 20s and Quadratrac t/cases and was told it was a silly question as all t/cases can be towed 500 miles without damage, now that was a very ill-informed guy and he should not be offering advice to anyone. Peter. | ||
| Scott Whitney (63.151.68.130) Rating: N/A |
Hi Peter, Thanks very much for that information. My problem is that I have a 1953, M38A1 (Korean War Vintage) Jeep. Not only that, but hardly anything is original i.e. small block 350 engine etc. I have towed it over 300 miles with no problems so far. Maybe I'll limit my miles to about 300 and then drive it around some before I tow again. At least until I can show it to a true Jeep expert face to face who can give me the skinny on my particular drive train. I also, had limited sucess on the 4WD BBs in this regard, so I decided to just do it with both tranny and transfer case in neutral. All was fine until I read that paragraph in the RV mag and this post yesterday and I started having second thoughts about my towing method! One of the reasons I bought this beast was for simplicty in towing and repair. . . Cheers, Scott | ||
| madbrit (216.67.207.230) Rating: N/A |
Scott, try going to this URL: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/xfer/ it contains a lot of transfer case info and you may be able to confirm which one you have. With an early Jeep, you may still be able to get a Warn fully floating rear axle kit, try this page, and check out which wheel and stud diameter you need down at the lower left of the page: http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/ or contact Warn to see if they make a kit for your model. I have seen quite a few older Jeeps with tow bars, so they may well tow ok and with both manual trans and t/case in neutral. With a 350 motor, what trans and t/case do you have? Stock axles? Peter. | ||
| Scott Whitney (63.151.68.130) Rating: N/A |
Hi Peter, Thanks for the URLs. I am catching a train out of town in 25 minutes, but will investigate when I get back next week. Part of my problem is I haven't identified my trans, t/case and axles. Presumably they are stock, but who knows. It is a 3 spd. I think the entire Jeep was dissassembled and redone, maybe several times over the last 50 years. . . Thx again, Scott | ||
| Randy (209.63.122.117) Rating: N/A |
We towed a 1965 CJ-5 for 5 years with all four down, front hubs un-locked, trany and transfer in neutral and no mods to the rear axle. We never had any problems. | ||
| Lee Seifert (216.220.8.11)
Rating: N/A |
I am considering buying a 1997 F-150 Ford 2 wheel drive with a 5 speed manual. I was always under the impression that a manual 2 wheel drive could be towed all down by just kicking it in neutral and going. The Ford dealer says no way. Any one have the same setup? What do you know? Lee |