| Author | Message | ||
| Randy Davidson
Rating: N/A |
Folks; What is your take on being able to manually pour water into your fresh water tank? I'll have a hose connection, of course, but how often do you find it necessary to pour water in or get access to the inside of the tank? I can visualize needing to pour bleach or something in once in a great while to "freshen up" the tank. Would this need a big pipe opening? Say, 3" hole? How's your tank set up? Thanks, Randy | ||
| Frank Allen Rating: N/A |
Never, i drop bleach in the tank on ocassion, i do have a provision to add whatever manuely and i think you do need that Frank Allen 4106 | ||
| TWO DOGS Rating: N/A |
pour some in the garden hose | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
More important than getting into the tank is the ability to get water OUT with great ease. When you have the tanks built simply have low spots for 2 inch pipe spun in, to be used as fast drains. It only adds $10.00 or so to each tank , and along with the need to wineterize , or flush after a chlorine soak , can be the find of "better water. Much of the tap water in some areas is very hard or filled with minerals , and taists LOUSEY. When you come upon a GOOD taisting water , its really nice if you can dump 100G in a min or two , trather than having a 2,5 gal per min FW pump "transfer" it to your holding tank. Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Rating: N/A |
We have a 1" manual fill along with a valve off the manifold from the hose connection. Many forest service and NPS fresh water fill stations do not have threaded connections, but, rather, simply hoses with a cut-off end. Also, it does facilitate adding bleach, anti-freeze, or other chemicals to the fresh water system. We also have a 2" low-point drain, as FF suggests. -Sean | ||
| Merlin Moon (Mrmerlin)
Rating: N/A |
I don't even have the tanks yet, but my design has a top gravity fill opening in the fresh tank. Planning ahead for the days we will boondock and have a water truck deliver it. I figure a 2" opening will be adequate. Also, for steam cleaning the tanks, I will have a 3" plug in the face of each about mid-point. Can't hurt to plan ahead, although I may never need to steam the tanks out. | ||
| Johnny Rating: N/A |
I'm planning 2 manual fills: a 1" (maybe 2") similar to Sean's, & one threaded for a hose, with a selector to close off the one not being used to prevent embarassing water-spray incidents. I'll also have a drain. | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
Rating: N/A |
I have a 135 gal.Aluminum water tank I plan on air pressure to move my water out of my air tank the main fill will be a garden hose connection. But I will have a manual fill about 1 1/4" to add water from a pail if Im parked away from a hose. For the darin I was thinking 3/4" pipe to a garden hose connection should let the water out fast if under pressure it should come out as fast as a hose at your house. Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| Jack Watson (Jck5b)
Rating: N/A |
My FW system has a provision to connect a garden hose (using a quick disconnect coupling)then the water flows thru a pressure regulator (installed in line) then thru a water filter and into the top of the 110 gallon FW tank. To sanitize the tank I unscrew and remove the replacable filter cartridge and add a cup or two of chlorox(unscented)! screw it back on without the cartidge,fill the tank,turn on each sink & shower fawcett to get chlorinated water in the lines,and leave it in the tank overnight.Then I drain it using the external drain valve (outside under the tank bottom),refill the tank again to rinse & drain again, then remove the water filter container and install a new filter and fill the tank. I don not have a provision to fill the tank without using a garden hose but it would be nice to have a way to add water without using a hose. Jack MCI5b | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
IF your going to power fill with a 2 inch supply truck pump , an VENT of at least 2 inches is manditory! FAST FRED | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
I use a 2 1/2 ft clear hose with a funnel in one end to attach to the hose fitting to the tank for adding bleach. If I needed to fill manually, I would use the same system, because it is such a rare event that it would not be worth the extra effort and complecity to allow for it in design. I have never needed to fill manually. | ||
| R.C.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
Stephen...do I read you right; you simply pour bleach into the funnel? Can't visualize how that is connected to a water hose fitting for both incoming water and bleach.....?? Just a bit fuzzy on your explanation. Sounds like whatever, it is a good idea. We do not use tank water for drinking water, coffee, etc......HOWEVER, we do use it for bath lavatory use, which means brushing teeth, etc. Elaborate a bit if you would please, sir...  Thanx, RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
I do not put large amounts of bleach in the tank. If I do I empty it and refill it with a smaller amount. 1cc per gallon is about right for drinking water. I have a carbon filter in line with the supply to the coach from the holding tank or from city water. The carbon will take out chlorine. Chorine in the tank is a good idea. There is an RV type female hose connection on the side of the coach that is used to fill the tank and to connect to city water, depends on how the valves are set. The funnel with the short clear plastic hose is made from vinyl tubing and a funnel and a male hose connector. It is connected to the hose connector on the side of the coach while the valves are in the fill tank position and an appropriate amount of bleach is added. Then some water is poured through the funnel to wash the bleach through, then a hose is connected instead of the funnel and we fill up. I know the volume of my water tank but I have to guess at the exact amount of water it will take, since my guage reads in 1/4 tankfuls. 2cc per gallon is not too much for bathing, but you will tast it in your coffee. The method of putting the bleach in the filter housing is also good, as long as the water flows into the tank from the filter and does not flow through a carbon filter first. I have also read of using a new garden sprayer that has a male hose outlet, not its own nozzle, to add the bleach. 5cc = 1 teaspoon 15cc = 1 tablespoon 30cc = 1 fluid oz. So a generous 3 oz of bleach per 100 gallons of water. The formula is based on 5% calcium hypocholrite bleach, most brands. Chlorox Ultra is 6%. Bleach in Mexico is often 4%. No need to adjust for 6% but if you are in Mexico, better adust up for the 4% stuff. 1cc of 5% per gallon is a minimum standard. I really use 1.2cc per gallon of 5% when I am worried about the water so in Mexico, I would use 1.5cc per gallon of the 4%. | ||
| R.C.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
OK, and Thanx Stephen.....makes more sense now. I'm curious and interested in how one goes about addressing the problem of no male end on a Forest Service hose when one has a hose connection only, backed up by a pressure regulator in the coach. I too have a filter directly downstream of the regulator, but as reported earlier, we do not use that water, even though bleach is used, for drinking. The Mexico thing is curious and I appreciate the information. Thanx, RCB | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Look in a RV catalog for a "Water Thief" . This is an adapter that slips over the end of a smooth faucet and tightens on with a hose clamp' The output is std. male hose. About $3.00 at your favorite RV shop. FAST FRED | ||
| Jeff (Jeff)
Rating: N/A |
What I've done in the past with my travel trailer and have set up for my bus is: With the city water coming in, I have a water filter with a cartridge. I remove the cartridge and add some bleach to the water filter container. I then use my fresh water hose and run water till the tank is full. I let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Then drain the water out. Not a lot of bleach where it would hurt the grass. No need to waste the water back down the sewer. Water your yard with the fresh water. If your coach is being used, make sure you run some of the water into the black water tank till 1/4 full and add some ice through the toilet and drive the bus around. Remember, if you have bleach in the waste tank and add ice. DO NOT add and abrasive cleaner. It may have Ammonia in it and that is a nasty combination. Of course, dump your waste tank at an approved disposal site. RV park, etc. Jeff "Take Another Road" Member 4:10 Club Rustless not Busless in Buckroe 1988 TMC RTS-06 6V92-TA DDEC IV/V731 da Bubba | ||
| John that newguy Rating: N/A |
Most often, the service hoses that have no terminating (screw) ends, do not supply potable water and should not used to fill your water tank.... unless you plan to fill your black tank using your natural bodily functions..... I would always use my own hose to fill my own tank.... especially after personally witnessing weekend campers washing their sewer drains and black tanks with the facility supplied hose... | ||
| Jeff (Jeff)
Rating: N/A |
Good point John. So many campers think of only themselves and do not look out for the other guy that wishes to enjoy their camping experience. I do not use a drinking water hose for my waste water clean out. Those devices sold to back flush their tanks should never be on the market. To use drinking water hose and or drinking water that may have the chance to contaminate the drinking water is a major No No! When it comes time to dumb my tanks at the RV campground, I use a plastic piece called a 'Johnny Lock'. It fits inside your RV toilet and keeps the dump valve open to fill with water. Best to have the waste water tank close to 3/4 full before dumping. Although you should never wait for months to dump either. A coworker of mine did that. Evaporation of water made waste tank content have the exactness of concrete. Of course caution must be made to ensure the sewer gas does not vent up into the camper. I have a piece of hose that is special for waste tanks. I hooked it up to the bathroom sink and it has a spinning nozzle at the other end. Reminds me of a basement nozzle we use to use in the fire department, for basements and piers. Truly the best treatment for sludge in the tanks is the drive around with 1/4 full and ice. My brother adds a 1/4 cup of Borax, Ajax, Comet. (as long as there is NO liquid bleach). Jeff |