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Message |
NelsonThomas
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 15, 2005 - 10:39 pm: | |
I have a 4104 with about 600 miles on an 8-10 year old rebuilt 671. It runs well now with no smoke at idle. Are the 671s as likely to have the rust damage in the cylinders as the 8v71? Can the 671 be inspected for rust from some kind of inspection plate on the side of the motor. I talked with the guy who originally rebuilt the motor and they used all factory GM DD parts. would it be best to repair the damage before using the motor. I am about 12 to 18 months from completing my conversion.
Thanks: Nelson Knoxville TN.
Re: 8V71 Sitting too long?
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Posted by LUKE at US COACH on January 13, 19105 at 17:45:12 PST:
In Reply to: 8V71 Sitting too long? posted by Alan Hull on January 12, 19105 at 20:34:42 PST:
Hi Alan & Folks:
As usual the group has come through with some great answers to your question.
I will add the benefit of my experience over the years, and I am beginning my 43rd year in the bus business in 2005 and I give my self credit for "knowing just enough to be dangerous"!!
Over the years I saw many long dormant 2 cycle Detroits installed in coaches that started up very well and then within a very short period of time, started puking oil and resulted in total engine failure and always wondered WHY???. It was a mystery to me for many years until the following occured:
About 20 years ago or more, I bought a group of buses for parts. We drove all of the buses to our shop and they all ran well, a 100 mile trip. We pulled the engine cradles and stored them "INSIDE", to be used in the future, and scrapped the bodies.
We had a need for 2 - 6V-71 cylinder heads, so I told my guys to go out into the shed and pull 2 heads from the stored engines, which they did. They pulled the heads, came back to me and said they wanted me to see something. I went out and our well running 6V-71's had several severely rusted cylinder holes on each side of the engine.
I looked, and was amazed, but quickly realized that on any stored engine open to the environment, there are intake and exhaust valves that are open to allow moisture to crawl into the engine and create rust. Perhaps if these engine were stored in the Arizona desert, the results may have had been different, but we are in N.J. I then realized that what I had seen over the years, were what appeared to be perfectly running engines that had piston rings running over and scraping of "RUST" until the point that the RINGS were destroyed, allowing oil to be pumped up and blown out the tail pipe!!
Well, that day answered the lingering question that I had harbored for years, about why an old sitting engine that sounded so good, upon resurection, turned into garbage in a short number of miles.
So when a Fast Fred or others suggest how to "Pickle" a 2 cycle Detroit that may sit for a very long period of time without starting, it is advisable to follow that advise.
I hope this "Hands On" experience if of HELP!!!
Happy & SAFE Bussin' to ALL!!!
LUKE at US COACH
: PD 4501 with 8v71 having only 20K miles has been sitting for 9 years. Anyone have any kind of advice for starting this thing up?
: Good and bad experiences appreciated. |
Rick L.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 15, 2005 - 11:47 pm: | |
Okay...Before I acquired it, my model 10 sat for ~3 years, they started it and ran it down the interstate a little bit, then it sat for ~2 more years, then I started it and drove it about 30 miles to it's new home. Is there anything I can do to make sure it's okay? The bus was free, and I don't have much money to put into it, just labor (rust, rust, rust....)
Fingers crossed in TN |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2005 - 5:25 am: | |
Preserving a 6-71 is easier than an 8-71 if you do not wish to use the DD recomended method.
I simply pull the air box covers and with the piston down squirt NAPA preserving oil (made for the job) into each cylinder.
I only use this quickie for 6 months storage on a boat engine , that sits with FRESH oil in the crankcase.
The exhaust and intakes are SEALED as airtight as duct tape can make it.
FAST FRED |
Phil Dumpster
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2005 - 6:44 am: | |
That would be my suggestion as well. Cap the intake and the exhaust to keep moisture from getting in there. Perhaps there would be some way to use silica gel to absorb whatever moisture gets trapped inside.
I take mine for a spin once a month when I make the storage payment in order to give everything a good stir, just to prevent this sort of problem. |
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