| Author |
Message |
CoryDaneRTSII (4.17.253.39)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 10:26 pm: | |
How do I remove the vinyl covering without ripping up the top layer of the plywood flooring?
Tried a small section by just pulling up but it pulled some of the wood up too.-cd
Hope this posts, tried before but never showed up. |
Dwight (63.16.168.73)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 11:35 pm: | |
HI Cory..
I left mine in, the glue is too strong to remove the rubber from the plywood, ??? what can it hurt ???
I figured it can only help protect the plywood ???
been there for 20 years, plywood looks new under it??? |
Steve 80 Crown Atomic (205.188.192.169)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 6:52 am: | |
Hi Cory,
I got rid of mine (a 3/16 thick rubber mat), mainly as a weight-saving effort, and to see the condition of the floorboards and the metal underneath them.
A heck of a lot of work, but another 70-100 lbs of dead weight removed, and I preserved the wood and steel for another 20+ years.
I welded a .401 rivet set shank to a 3-inch wide heavy steel chisel and used it in a 4X pneumatic riveting hammer to separate the mat from the wood. Where the wood started to splinter, I attacked it from other directions. I did find that the wood mainly splintered when attacked from one specific direction. I also used Methyl Ethyl Ketone to dissolve the glue in tough spots, wearing a painters mask with charcoal filters. M.E.K. is available at Home Depot stores for around $14 a gallon. The fumes are great for scrambling your bbbbbbbbrain.
This was truly not a fun job. Probably 90% of the pieces of mat I removed were less than 8x8 inches in size.
I patched the splinters with autobody putty, sanded the floorboards smooth and sealed them with laquer sanding sealer (Home Depot $55/5gal).
The steel floors had no corrosion so I cleaned them up, applied a coat of paint, then covered that with a thin coat of black waterproofing compound (Henry 107 asphalt emulsion, Home Depot).
1/4 inch thick strips of closed-cell foam were placed on all edges of the floorboards when I reinstalled them, to seal minor gaps. This is the stuff that is normally placed between the tops of a pickup truck bed and a cap.
I don't plan to ever remove these floorboards, except the ones over the engine and center aisle. And now, I'm not ever going to worry about rot or corrosion in the floor.
I plan to cement 2-inch wide velcro to the floorboards and to the carpet I lay down, so I can easily remove it for steam cleaning or replacement, during the next 20 years.
Just my way, not the easiest way.
Steve |
Gene R. (12.13.175.37)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 8:18 am: | |
Something to remember is that that dense mat will help greatly with the road noise!! We layer the floor of every coach we ever built with it. The noise reduction is worth the weight to us.FWIW. Gene R. |
Toolman (Toolman) (207.44.55.242)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2001 - 10:27 pm: | |
Going to leave the rubber in mine... I have 1/2" plywood to lay over the rubber... I feel it is good sound insulation and moisture barrier...
To each their own,
Toolman |
|