| Author | Message | ||
| Pat Bartlett (Muddog16)
Rating: N/A |
I was wondering what many of you used to partition your rooms, bedroom, bathroom, and how you went about it, also i noticed some window shades on a picture of a conversion, they looked like an appliance garage door for kitchen cabinets, they appeared to slide in a groove. Did anyone use pocket doors, or regular swing doors? And finally, Sky lights, did anyone use any, and were they capable of being used as an escape exit? | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
Rating: N/A |
My plan is for pocket doors with wood walls but I have not got that far yet. No swing doors for me. I will cover my sky lights with vents. And also putting a opening escape hatch I can use to get on the roof. Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| Frank Allen Rating: N/A |
I made my cabinet doors to swing upward, with small cylindars to hold em open, the walls are plywood and two by fours, wanted strong walls so i could get awy from the wall moving when i close a door like the trailers do, works well for me Frank Allen 4106 | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Single sheet of 1/2 ply (5 ply), reinforced by attachment to coach and custom built furnature. Weighs the least , with out getting exotic. FAST FRED | ||
| bill chisholm (Billybandman)
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I used hollow core doors from Home Depot. They worked GREAT. Inexpensive, lghtweight, and easy to work with and run wiring, plumbing, etc. | ||
| Ron Walker (Prevost82)
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I used pocket door frame with 2x4 frame. I plan to make the door with an oak finish....home depot want way too much for them. Ron | ||
| Justin Dortignac Rating: N/A |
We used 2x3s oriented either way depending on if we wanted plumbing in the wall or not, and we skinned it with 1/8 Oak vaneer plywood, very solid and looks nice! Justin | ||
| CoryDaneRTS Rating: N/A |
For Skylights, I put in 22" sq boat hatches, Metal rims, tinted safety glass. I had the glass tinted with a reflective coating to prevent heat from coming in. they would work very well for emergency exits, depending on a persons size. cd | ||
| marc schlabach Rating: N/A |
I used 2x2 walls with 1/2 in. plywood on each side and covered the walls with vinyl and fabric. My room divider doors are 24 in. wide raised panel solid cherry. All the cabinets and trim are solid cherry. works for me. Marc | ||
| niles steckbauer (Niles500)
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Marc - i like your idea - and possibly the puchase of extra material to be stored in case you have to make repairs or replace parts of the wall panels in the case of any accidental damage - the use of those materials especially in conjunction with a light foam backer,and possibly batt insulation in the cavity,would provide for sound deadening of internal and external noise - Niles | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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I made my own pocket door to get away from the massiver size and price that HD wants. Very easy to do and takes up much less space. I used a full extension drawer slide on top and one on the bottom mounted directly on the floor. it works just like a drawer that is mounted on one end. I received a lot of compliments because of it at the rally. It works smooth, doesn't travel while travelling, and takes up considerably less space. I made the door out of a plain piece of 3/4 inch ply and covered it to match the walls which is satin finish cherry laminate thru out. As FF says... works for me! Ace | ||
| don (Bottomacher)
Rating: N/A |
Ace- I planned to do the same, but I didn't think I could get the door into two tracks at the same time (due to having to tilt it in.) How did you do it? | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
i sandwich a piece of 3/4" polycyanurate foam insulation board with 1/4" paneling..use liquid nails to hold it together.... top, bottom, outside edges are 3/4" x 2" finger joint.... and if figure it out beforehand, i use the 3/4" x 2" inside where i plan to mount something.. like hitting a stud in the wall... you can sculp/gouge out the insulation board to run wire, plumbing.... | ||
| R.C.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
1/2 inch plywood sidewalls and bulkheads, covered by 1/8 oak plywood, Doors all 3/4 inch oak with 1/4 inch inserts. The bulkhead between the galley and the bath was 3/4 due to cabinets being attached to each side. Doors all swing and are dual purpose ( hide contents of closet...close for privacy in the head area. All cabinets from the same oak material with 3/4 oak frames. I made them all, each to configure to a specific purpose. Doors open as usual except for horizontal doors above microwave and fridge...they open to the the ceiling. No knobs or handles on any of the cabinets. All drawers and doors open with rounded surface on front and back of each. Lots and lotsa cabinet space. None in the "living room area" (overhead). KISS>>>>>>>>>>>>>  RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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Don like I said, it's just like a drawer. All your drawers have two slides. It never is a problem getting them in both. Just build it like a drawer and turn it up on end! Very easy! Just use a good quality roller wheel on top that kind of HOOKS on the rail. That wheel keeps the door from falling in and out. Mount the other slide to bottom of door and to the floor! Ace | ||
| vern rainville
Rating: N/A |
Anyone considering a "pocket" door should see Ace and Suzan's door. Real slick, inexpensive, uses a little less space,and slides perfect! Overall, works the way you expect. Like Ace said, the only real expense is the full extension (ball bearing) slide it self. The can be bought at the Home Cheapos according to weight of the (drawer) door. The are rated around 100lbs, which of course the door does not wieght that much. Here is a good example for wanna bees, and in progress bus people to attend these meets. Lots of information, seminars, and like Ace and Suzan's bus, plenty of idea's.Ace and Suzan, Nice job!Vern (in RI) | ||
| Captain Ron (Captain_ron)
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I wanted to use sliding pocket doors on my bus but a prolem I see with busses like mine is the rounded roof. the door can only slide in so far before hitting the lower angle of the roof. you can put in a header above door but in my case I don't have the head room. another option is a spring loaded filler panel that goes down inside door as it's beeing pushed in and rises back up to match the contour of the roof when opened. the dowfall to this is it leaves wear marks on the ceiling or the track you make on ceiling. or you can make the door a 2 peice split in the middle and slide both ways. | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
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Ron do you have a CAD program like IntelliCAD. I have some drawings started on my floor plan that uses a pocket door with a center isle . Its a very tight fit but they will fit. I can send you a copy of what I got started you you want. Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| Captain Ron (Captain_ron)
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I don't have a cad program but could use one. You could send drawings as long as I can open them in something. my isle is kind of center isle. just not exactly centered. | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
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I think they only open in CAD I dont know if any other pgm will open them But I will send any way. Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| CoryDaneRTS Rating: N/A |
When my CAD program was "ORPHANED" when I upgraded to Win XP, I lost all those hours of drawings of the bus. Mechanical, interior design, electrical, water, all gone. I had planned to keep them for records of reference. NOW I USE MicroSoft Paint. Not all the bells and whistles but everytime MicroSloth makes upgrades, Paint will run my drawings and I can use them on any MS op sys computer for reference. My sugestion is to save the money and use Paint, it could save you a ton of hours of lost drawings. cd | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A |
I'm old....I do things old fashined...don't have any fancy programs...two things you need to learn....how to read a tape measure...& how to read a road atlas...wish I could tell you how many times people have told me :"it's 47 and a half ,AND two of those little things" | ||
| Jim (Jim_in_california)
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I've been doing stuff in paint: http://www.equalccw.com/goingpostal7.gif Plan for a Crown Postal: http://mogsrus.com/crown.htm http://mogsrus.com/crownpics.htm As to walls: do recall that you need enough strength to retain heavy stuff in a crash. In my case the key items would be the fridge and any motorcycle(s) in the back garage. One converter suggested wall frames and cross-members of 2" steel or aluminum tubing to which panelling could be screwed. While probably "overkill" it would indeed be strong as hell. | ||
| RCBishop
Rating: N/A |
DeltaCad....cheap...easy, and upgradable.... As FF says....works for me! ( I formerly used AutoCad...BIG $$$$$) FWIW RCB | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
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Use 1" steel square tubing for walls, and use a closet door slide on top with a drawer slide on the bottom of 3/4" wood for pocket doors. Drawer slides tip and drag on the floor when used on the top and bottom of pocket doors. --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| H3 (Ace)
Rating: N/A |
I used full extension drawer slides on both the top and bottom of my 3/4 inch laminated wooden door and it doesn't seem to tip or wobble what so ever. In fact it works very well with no sloppyness at all! Don't really know what your talking about! Ace | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
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Ace-- I tried using the heaviest drawer slides sold at Home Depot and the 3/4" oak plywood pocket door would drag the floor as it was extended. The drawer slides are great for holding drawers horizontally but there is enough slop in the vertical position that they would not hold the door up. This was using 18-24" ball-bearing slides. I ended up having to use the channel and wheels from a closet door slide on top mounted on a 2.5" header to hold the door(s) up. I wish you weren't so far away-- I would love to see how it worked for you and not for me! Could it be my oak plywood doors are heavier than your laminated doors? --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
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DML has closet door hardware and it worked great for 15 years with no problem. Nothing on the floor either to trip on or collect dirt and dust. Richard | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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Geoff maybe I didn't explain the installation completely. I use the full extension drawer slides on both top and bottom (nothing to trip on as it's completely under the door out of the way) along with a roller wheel at the top of the door that kind of helps support the door. The wheel is fitted to a custom self made channel and rolls along a ridge that is hidden by finish trim! Works great and the doors are 3/4 inch ply that have been laminated on ALL sides. Ace | ||
| R.C.Bishop
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Ace....perhaps others are having a problem, as I am, with just how you mounted thoses rollers top and bottom..... For instance,... On each side at the top and bottom, 4 total roller sides, or on the very top and very bottom, mounted to roll across the ceiling and across the floor? (two roller slides). Sounds like a great idea; just having a time figuring it out... Pics? Thanx. RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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I used two roller slides one at the very top and one at the very bottom on the floor. If you can picture a regular drawer turned on it's side, then you have it only my door is not a box as is a drawer but merely a 3/4 inch laminated flat plywood sheet! Ace | ||
| R.C.Bishop
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Ace.... Are both on the same side of the door? The idea is great if you can keep it stabilized while opening and shutting; What do you use for closure when the door is closed (blocking the opening)? Thanx for the response, Good idea! RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| H3 (Ace)
Rating: N/A |
RC the slides are NOT on the sides. They are on the TOP edge and the BOTTOM edge. If you picture (an approx size) a 24x54 sheet of plywood laying flat on the floor with the small sides on your left and right, now install one slide on each outer 3/4 inch edge as if it were going to be a drawer. One on the left and one on the right. Now stand it up. You have a slide on the top and one on the bottom. NOTHING is mounted on the flat surface of the door. Everything is on the 3/4 edge of the sheet, top and bottom! hth Ace | ||
| RC.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
Okie doaks.....got it now..and thought in the beginning that was what you meant...sorry for the....uh, Duuuhh!!!. Thanx/ RCB |