| Author |
Message |
A.K.A. Captain Cry Baby (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 14, 2005 - 7:32 pm: | |
I bought 4 11R24.5 used tires and rims today. $632.00 rides a lot smoother. Seems to run faster but RPM and MPH read the same. mabee its just cause it runs smoother. Now I need brakes there not stopping me like they were earlier this trip.
How much should I expect to dish out for a brake job? hopefuly just shoes. |
mel 4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 14, 2005 - 7:53 pm: | |
you have done a little work that you will have to redo as if you have checked the slack adjusters and the linings when you had the wheels off it would have been easy to check now you will have to rejack up the back end again and check the pads once you have the wheels off. you might want to pull the hubs to get a look at them. when you get that part fixed you might want to check to see if the drums need turning, if so you might have to go to over size rollers and over size shoes so check the drums first. once you get this ok the replace the hubs and set the slack adjusters. do front and back and not just one end asuming the other end is ok. it could be one heck of a feeling seeing a truck, tree ,ditch coming at you and you cannot stop because you wanted to save $50. but then it should be done as you feel safe with it. as to cost that will depend on what you have to replace.. |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 14, 2005 - 8:41 pm: | |
Holy carp, Mel... Go easy on this guy, willya'? You almost
had me cryin'...
Ron.... get the brakes adjusted. With new threads, you may
be just driving a little more aggressive than before.
For what it's worth:
I've adjusted brakes by tightening each adjuster up tight, then
backing the adjuster off about three clicks. That was done
with the wheels down. I had been told to do it that way by
a guy I worked for (transit mix & sand/gravel hauling) that
seemed to know his stuff...... If it's wrong, it's wrong, but it's
worked for me. Maybe Luke will drop in with a comment
regarding that way of doing it... |
Sojourner (Jjimage)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 14, 2005 - 9:54 pm: | |
My MCI had badly worn deep wide groove in middle of both front drums.
Poor checking on my part, was assuming charter co. would not drive that way for everyday used or they replace for new shoe without replace drums to sell. Result driving 12000 mi with weak brake. Never again...many close call.
So see if you can flashlight into opening where shoe & drum surface. It should be same bare metal color across the width of drum.
Lining thickness should be ½ inch or more.
If not, then you need to replace drum & shoes to match.
Like what RJ Long said, CAUTION; Be sure to block-up as DA book for your safety.
Air bag can blow out any time and DOWN it come to crush anything in it's way. Ouch!
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry |
Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 12:39 pm: | |
Ron ...you have to have the park brakes off (disenguaged) to adjust your slack adjusters. Make sure you block the wheels before releasing the park brake.
Ron |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 10:30 pm: | |
Hello
Capt Ron, I'm with JTNG, hold the fort, and just check what you've got. Maybe just needs an adjustment.
JTNG, what do you mean by "three clicks"? I hope you aren't manually adjusting automatic slack adjusters....
Capt Ron and Sojourner, depth of remaining brake lining material is more than a simple measurement. It depends on manufacturer, lining fastening methods, amount of material started with, etc. Usually, there is a scribed line on the side edge of your brake lining. This is the wear limit marking. Once worn down beyond the line anywhere along the length, the lining fasteners will start touching the drum. You can see this scribed line through the inspection slot in your dust shields, or you'll see the whole lining edge, if you don't have dust shields.
Make sure you've got it figured out whether you have an upper price on "safety" or where your "good enough for this much cash" point is.
A complete brake job: labour, axle seals and bearing service, turning the drums(new or your old ones) mounting new linings, maybe new shoes, cutting the new lining to match drum circumference, replacing worn or seized cams and bushings, freeing the seized clevis and pins, new return springs, and did I mention labour... plus taxes.....
stopping when you need to: priceless
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 9:23 am: | |
who said anything about 'automatic' slack adjusters...and it is not 3 clicks ...it's 180 degrees (half turn) |
Jtng
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 5:08 pm: | |
1/2 turn is about three notches of the lock assy.
I should have just said "1/2" turn... |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2005 - 1:05 am: | |
And Captain Ron, bus brakes are not truck brakes. If you can, get someone experienced with bus brakes to inspect them and let you know where you stand.
Luke at US Coach has been emphatic on this point. Also, you can probably get used drums if you need them, from him.
I adjust our brakes without jacking our coach up. We still have our hand brake and use it for this purpose. A piece of cardboard to lay on will make this easier, but you might have trouble with the reach, depending on your size and shape.
Fast Fred's run up blocks take all the strain out of this job, and you're going to need them down the road. It seemed like a lot of work when I made them, but I've never regretted doing it.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |
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