Charging Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Edit Profile

BNO BBS - BNO's Bulletin Board System » THE ARCHIVES » Year 2005 » February 2005 » Charging « Previous Next »

Author Message
captain ron (Captain_ron)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 7:56 pm:   

Once I get my alternator charging how can I tie my house battery into the charging system so I can use it for heat as I'm driving and keep it charged?
Don/TX

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 8:23 pm:   

Give us some help here. What is your Alternator and engine bank voltage? what is your house battery bank voltage?
TWODOGS (Twodogs)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 8:46 pm:   

don't ask him a question like that....ya' tryin' to make his head explode
BillGlenn

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 8:59 pm:   

Electronic solenoids &/or manual swithces would be my choices if both systems are of the same voltage.

I have a 73 chevy 1 ton camper special that came with 2 batteries; 1 for the pickup, and 1 for the camper. When the ignition is on, the solenoid-relay connects the two batteries, when the ignition is off the solenoid opens, to release the connection between the batteries. ALWAYS have a charged battery to start with(or leave with if you wish).

Much Better system than the manual on off switch I am currently using on our eagle.

Glad you brought up the thread Ron, I was wondering about suggestions on purchase options for a minimum 300 amp continous duty unit.

Your amp and duty cycle may vary.

What type of heat are you using.

Bill
jimmci9 #2

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 9:41 pm:   

use a no/nc switch hooked up to engine oil pressure to turn the relay on and off... that way, it'll only charge/discharge when the engine is running.... otherwise, you may forget and not turn it on or off... and either run down or not charge the batteries...
captain ron (Captain_ron)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 9:41 pm:   

Two Dogs quit picking on me I'll get a complex and start crying again.
The alt and starting or bus batteries are 24 volts the house is 12 volt. curently using 1 battery but may buy 1 more b4 I leave if I can afford it.
captain ron (Captain_ron)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2005 - 9:45 pm:   

Propane heat but I need to run the fans. my feet still freeze though cause theres a lot of air that comes from the front of the bus. thats another issue I need to address, sealing all the air leaks up front in the body
truthhunter@shaw.ca

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 1:11 am:   

Is thier a fresh air vent by your feet like on MCI
captain ron (Captain_ron)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 2:04 am:   

not that I know of there is an air vent up on the left side windshield post
RJ Long (Rjlong)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 2:43 am:   

Capt'n Ron -

There is a vent up front on the 4905 - that black knob at the center of the dash at the base of the windshield's center post (unless it's missing) controls it. Rotate clockwise to open, counter-clockwise to close.

Is your defroster working? If so, you shouldn't have cold feet while driving!

Down by your throttle foot, you'll find a push-pull knob that controls the flow of hot water thru the defroster. Up for more flow, down to close.

In addition, forward of the knob, there's a damper door that helps direct air flow. (It's about opposite the top of the throttle pedal.) The more it's pulled up and open, the more air flows into the driver's footwell area. Closing it directs more towards the defrosters. Over the years, it may have become stuck - use a good penetrating oil to loosen it up (PB-Blaster is one brand).

You have checked the gate valves on the engine compartment bulkhead above the shift control levers to make sure they're open fully, haven't you?

Finally, is the heater booster pump operating properly? It's located in the old A/C condensor compartment, and should kick on automatically whenever you switch on the defrosters.

All of the above is based on a stock 4905 system, of course. If it's working properly, you should have toasty toes! :-)

HTH,

RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA
captain ron (Captain_ron)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 4:18 am:   

Had to close the valves you are talking about in engine compartment because of leaking antifreeze at the front heater core and also at the ac condenser. thats why I use the house heat for now while traveling. plus the blower don't work. but I'll check the rest of those items you mentioned.
Don/TX

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, February 21, 2005 - 8:08 am:   

Looks like the only option you have for now is to center tap your 24v battery system for 12v supply when driving, since it appears you are going to have the engine running most of the time.
RJ's post was right on, but I have found that the fresh air intake flapper has rubber edges to control sealing, and after years of time, the rubber rots and lets in LOTS of cold air, some duct tape may be in order for quick sealing.

Add Your Message Here
Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration