| Author | Message | ||
| Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)
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Hey All: I had to make another set of run-up blocks today. My other pair are under the Fishbowl at the moment, and I need a set out at the 4106. It was quicker to build a new set than go get the others. Anywho, I had my trusty digicam and a few extra minutes to share a way to build a pair of these babies... to buy you an extra 4-1/2" under your bus, change an outside dual, etc. Enjoy! BB Longmont, CO USA GMC PD4106-1175 GMC T8H-5305-021 | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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sounds crude...but...next oil change...paint them with used oil...two...three times...till they won't soak up any more | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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and put a screen door handle on the side..in the middle one | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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AND...........put a 11 1/2 " piece of 1"x1" angle iron on the bottom of each end | ||
| g
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I did something very similar a few years ago as I prepared to drop the fuel tank and build some storage underneath the fishbowl. Unlike your project, however, I felt more comfortable using newer railroad ties. We took three eight footers ran 5/8 threaded stock three times through the ties at equal distances, used maully bolt(sp?) to hold the suckers together and then fired up the chainsaw. Put the three ties on their side then cut the three ties bolted together at about a 25 degree angle (?) directly in the center. This cut provided me with a pair of very heavy duty run up ramps. They work great, no chance of these babies breaking down in the next few years. I was pretty convinced that the ties could handle the weight. Safety first! Thanks Southern Pacific  Thanks for the info. Grant | ||
| Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)
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Thanks for the improvement tips, TD! Grant, do you have a pic of your super heavy-duty run-ups? They sound awesome. And, yeah, if they can support railroad locos and cars, your bus will be a walk in the park for 'em. BB | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
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Grant, Did you leave them at 8 feet long, or cut them in half for two sets? As Brian said, if you have a photo, that would be great. A mechanic shop in LA used a single railroad tie on each side under the outer dual. The inner dual and the tag just hung in the air. He said that was SOP in his shop for decades, and didn't stress the outer tires as long as you don't leave it in that position for long periods. Has anyone else use that technique vs supporting both duals and tags? Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| g
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I will try to get a shot of the units tomorrow (if the weather permits). I left the ramps four feet long. Of course the first few inches are cut off as it was too thin. Of course one of the drawbacks to this style of ramp is their size and weight. You do not move these babies very often. Thanks Grant | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
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I used 2x12 pressure treated wood planks to make two 11" tall ramps, eight feet long. Cut each piece at 45 degrees one foot shorter than the bottom piece with a 2' piece at the top. I put it together with deck screws and it works out very nice, and is not too heavy to move around. | ||
| gusc Rating: N/A |
I go with Geoff. Laminated wood for heavy loads is always better than a single piece, much stronger. | ||
| erthwrks Rating: N/A |
I was wondering how tall a ramp must be to work on the air system?? Bill 4104 4032 | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
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Bill, It depends on how fat you are With my 4905 sitting on a 2" plywood and at factory ride height I can slide under easy and sit on the ground in the axle spaces and reach what I need . Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| erthwrks Rating: N/A |
Can you get under with NO air in your suspension?Bill 4104-4032 | ||
| Brian (Bigbusguy)
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I dont let my suspension go down. After I put my blocks under the bulkhead I have metal spacers I set on the axles between the rubber bumpers so if the supension should leak down it will not drop. But with out the spacers I think it would only come down about 4" so a 6" block should work. If your the size of most men in any country but the usa you should fit but if you can not look down and see your feet like most American men just add inches to your ramp until you fit. Im about 11" tall when laying on the ground and some times have to add 8" to that. But thats only a temporary condition Brian 4905 Klamath Falls Oregon | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
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Braggart!! | ||
| Derek (Derek_l)
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Haven't I always told yous... The 8" wheels go on the kiddies wagon, not on your creeper. | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
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We followed Fast Fred's pattern and got some very nice blocks. Ours are laminated, but we use Douglas Fir 2 x 8 set on edge with 2 x 4 spacers. The 2 x 8 are set parallel to the ground and the spacers are parallel to the ramp. They're through bolted and glued with PL200 adhesive from our local lumber store. The pluses are that there is no way the laminate can split for any distance and since the ramps are smooth, they are very easy to pull up onto with a standard shift. They're not bad for weight and they do not waste space in the bays. They work for giving me safe height under the coach (7 1/2" tall) and they make fine leveling blocks if I can't find a spot that's level enough. I borrowed Fast Fred's in Florida when I needed to do a grease job. I thought that I would be doing a lot of shuffling but I only needed to run up one of the rears to do the back end and run the fronts up once. These work nicely on a car, too, so I have very little use for any other blocking. If anybody is interested in these, I believe that Fast Fred posted a drawing of his, so a search in the archives ought to find his description of them. For what it's worth. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher | ||
| Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)
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Tom, so you live way up in AK and made it all the way down to FLA? Man you put some miles on the old '06. That's great. Love to hear some musings on the AlCan. Anyhoo, I like your runups because of the height, but am having trouble visualizing 'em. Wondered if you could send a pic. Speaking of pics, I'm still waiting for Grant's railroad tie shot(s). Pics, people. Worth a thousand... well, you know. Email them to me and I can post 'em... make 'em look purty. Thanks! BB | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
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I'm having trouble visualizing this also. IF there's a photo in the archives, Blue Velvet promises a six-pack of his home brew to the winner of the search for it. I've been putting doing this on the back-burner but now it's *really* time for me to make some. Or find a PIT! | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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all you need is a skill saw,a 1/2" drill & some 3" deck screws....come on Chuckie...want me to drop by on my way north & do it... | ||
| RC Bishop
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Chuck....I went to a sawmill, had them cut two four foot sections out of 8" x 10" beams. Took them just a few minutes, using a chain saw, cutting 48 inch long "ramps" leaving 2.5 feet of flat top. Cost something around $30 as I recall. I store them in a forward bay along with all the other chach stuff...tools, oil, etc. FWIW RCB '64 Crown Supercoach | ||
| Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)
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Great idea, RC. I actually have one of those heavy timbers just sitting in my backyard waiting for me to make a "project" out of it. Run-up blocks beats wood-chip pile any day. It used to hold up half my living room until I reframed it all to get rid of the low ceiling. Here's a shot of it before we brought it down. Thanks! BB | ||
| R.C.Bishop
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That ought to do it....it appears laminated...but is it wide enough? My "ramps" are several years old and have been well used. Heavy, but practical and useful for a variety of things, including leveling, if that were necessary. I have air ride, and when the coach is on the ramps, or ramp, it evens out and is easy to work on. I usually let the air out of the system after it is on the ramps. All bags are deflated and therefore it won't come crashing down. RCB |
