| Author | Message | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Rating: |
__. A quick question. I would like to have a source of 12V on my bus. Also, the "Ample Power" website suggests a second alternator to charge the house bank (actually through a "smart charge" system that will provide crossover to charge both house and vehicle batteries at the same time). Sounds good to me. __. I appears pretty easy to adapt a second alternator on my bus. One suggestion was for a 12V alternator to run a 12V system, which could run direct radio/stereo/CD system, laptop adaptor, and some utility lights. On the other hand, it appears that it might be better to add a second 24V'er to run a 24V house bank. I've read the suggestions on the board about pulling a 12V source off a 24V system but it seems to me that a more robust system would be a 24-to-12V reducer. __. So, what would be the best thing? Add a 12V alternator or a second 24V? It seems that the ability to charge the house bank independent of the vehicle system would be a great advantage and it should be relatively easy to pull 12V off a 24V system. Is it possible to pull 12V off a 24V house bank while the house bank is being charged? If so, is there advantage to a more "high tech" solution rather than just a tap off a single battery? Thanks, Bruce Henderson, Wallace NC USA | ||
| Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)
Rating: N/A |
Bruce, I believe the only good way to tap 12v off of 24v is to use a high $ equalizer (Vanner, etc.). Center tapping a batt, esp. for high draw items, will damage the set in the long run. Being able to charge both house and coach batts from a single 24v source makes the 24v house side attractive. As does using lighter gauge cabling vs. 12v. BUT, you'll have a factor in an equalizer into your setup for long-term batt. health with 12v uses. OR, you could just not use any 12v DC stuff and go all 120v AC off the inverter... works for high-buck Pree-Vo! HTH, BB | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A |
Hello Bruce. Variables to consider, before you decide which path you would like to follow: In the use of your coach, how often will charging the batteries while driving be your only charging option? I am building an electric coach, which is intended for getting away, not full-timing. I was initially interested in the twin alternator set-up, (neat project!) but have changed direction. After a lot of thinking, my mindset at this point is that charging the batteries while driving is simply a freebie. I am not that concerned about getting a full and proper charge while driving down the road. By that I mean I will have all sorts of reasons to run the generator for awhile when parked (cooking, air conditioning or heating, battery charging) and periodically stay at a park with hook-ups. And, the batteries left home fully charged, and will be plugged in for a full charge on return. I have decided my efforts will be applied to assembling as quiet a generator system as I can manage, and have the coach and house 24 volt tie together when running. I have a Vanner equalizer (scrap yard transit take-out) to get my 12 volt out without harming the battery set, and one of those Trace 4024 inverter/chargers for better charging, when it happens. By all means, have the fun that designing and building a twin alternator set-up will give you, with some luck, I'll have a go at it sometime later in this life, but don't think you have to. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A |
I would say....go with a 12 volt deoco remy ONE wire alternater...to charge your house batteries...65 amp. 50.00 100 amp 100.00 125 amp 125.00...........look in the back of any hot rod book...chrome 100.amp 100.00 for one wire...has an internal regulator, you attach ONE WIRE to the battery...if the battery needs chargeing ...it charges...when the battery is charged...it shuts off.... | ||
| Earl-8-Ky
Rating: N/A |
I have a one wire alt on my bus. I have 6 Grp.31 gell cell batts for house 12 volt system. The alt I used is a 37 amp from NAPA. After a 8 hr day on the road I have plenty of power for my Fridg.and the T.V. and the other small amount of power I need. It makes for a good night at camp Wal-Mart or Flying J. Works for me. | ||
| Craig (Ceieio)
Rating: N/A |
My bus has an generator the size of a oil drum on it! It goes through an isolator to charge both the house bank and the coach bank. I have a high current switch that allows me to connect both banks together for a jump start or cold weather boost. I need a better answer to the 12v supply for the bus (right now it uses very little 12 v so the house is center tapped). I think I want to avoid more HP drag on the engine by another alternator, so I will probably scare up an equalizer. A post above mentioned getting one out of a scrapped transit. Is it common for transits to have equalizers in them? Is there a particular set of years or models that are more likely to have one in it? Thanks, Craig | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
An equalizer is a necessity in a 24 volt system if you are going to draw any 12 volt power and it will prolong battery life even if you don't draw 12 volts. Bruce, I have 2 24 volt alternators and 2 60 amp Vanner equalizers. The second is for the engine batteries which also run the trailer lights off a 12 volt centertap and relays. We recently came back from a 3000 mile trip where the house alternator quit half way through the trip. I did nothing but flip a switch to tie the systems together via a solenoid switch and continued the trip. I still haven't fixed it. It works so well on one alternator that I keep forgetting. Compare that to our first trip where I had to find an alternator shop and maneuver into their parking lot on a rainy day. Then I had to guard the bus because of the neighborhood. I have been very happy with house and engine battery systems both 24 volt. A 24 to 12 volt reducer or converter will not protect your batteries like an equalizer does. A Vanner keeps the two batteries in a 24 volt system within .02 volt of each other. A Vanner is also capable of allowing a larger 12 volt load than the rating of the equalizer and catching up. Example: You start the generator using a 12 volt connection from the house batteries. (Because the generator battery is dead.) The starter uses maybe 200 to 400 amps for 30 seconds. The Vanner will replace the lost power and voltage over maybe 5 to 10 minutes so it is capable even though only able to replace at a rate of 60 amps or so. | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Many folks find a house battery alternator will get more good use if mounted to the gen set. Usually underway is quite long , but gen set times are limited , so its better to have a 3 stage alt belted on the noisemaker for fastest charge times, and if there is room an imbecile 1 wire will have the 5 -10 hour runs to pump the batts back up. TO rapidly recharge only the 3 stageV reg will do any recharging quickly. FAST FRED |
