| Author |
Message |
Dan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 9:27 pm: | |
Hello fellow bus nutz. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on the best way to go about putting a nice polish on the stainless steel skins on my MCI 8. any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dan |
Luis (Sundancer)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 9:43 pm: | |
I found this in my word documents. I think I got it from International Bus Parts. Good luck, I haven't done mine yet.
POLISHING STAINLESS STEEL BUS’
1) Start with Black compound (Part# 2-B-66). Polish horizontal (left to right). Use the black until you can no longer see the grain, or very little grain (Patience is very important).
2) Next use the White compound (Part# HF1). Polish horizontal (left to right). Use the white until no grain is visible in the stainless steel, and the stainless is starting to polish. (Patience is very important)
3) Final – use the Blue compound (Part# C150). Polish horizontal (left to right). The blue will bring out a bright, brilliant shine. This is also the compound you use on already polished parts that have faded over the years. (Patience is very important)
TIPS:
*Always run the wheels horizontally (left to right). The same principal as sanding wood. Go with the grain. Look closely, the grain runs horizontally all the way down the side of the coach.
*Run grinder/polisher at approximately 2500 RPM – running too hot will warp material you are polishing. You can run hotter on thicker metal (.060>) without the problems you might have on thinner metal (.037<)
*Be careful not to stay in one area too long – gets metal too hot. And will warp/wave.
*Test: if you can place your hand (palm) on the metal where you are polishing & it’s hot, but doesn’t burn – you’re O.K.
*Be careful when polishing next to edges. If your wheels are pulling up next to an edge, simply flip buffing machine around 180 degrees so the wheels are pushing down. This way you won’t pull panels up or catch corners & pull the buffing machine into the coach.
*Prop open doors to raise the area you are polishing to waist level (much better than bending over all day).
*Save the old wheels when they wear down (they wear down as a pencil eraser would). You can use them on the vented areas that tear up new wheels. (8”) Canvas wheel, (Part# 86/82R)
*It takes professionals (80) to (100) man hours to complete the skins from the belt line down. Patience is very important.
*Dents & dings will stand out when polished. Like a crack or an imperfection in a mirror. You may want to analyze a panel before putting in a lot of polishing time.
*If you need to buy a side grinder/polisher, get one with a good warranty. Polishing metal can be hard on a machine.
*”New” stainless steel panels polish at a different rate than “Old” stainless steel panels. Not sure of the rationale, but it does.
*Be extremely careful of the electrical cord, loose clothing, etc… getting caught in the polisher/grinder. |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 9:59 pm: | |
then wax it |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 7:50 am: | |
Check Fred's page:
http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe.htm |
Luis (Sundancer)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 12:28 pm: | |
JTNG - I've never seen Fred's page before. There is a lot of good info there. Thanks. |
Soonda (Soonda)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 - 9:00 am: | |
Here are a couple links I had saved, might be useful. I bought my supplies from English Custom Polish, but so far they haven't made it out of the box.
http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/usca/stainless.html
Also some good info under the 'Polishing Tips' and 'Power Buffing' tabs
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm |