| Author |
Message |
DMDave
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2005 - 9:13 pm: | |
My brother in law called tonite and his fridge is not cooling on either source. Its getting power and when on propane he can hear the burner going but no cool. I just looked thru the archives but under propane refridgerator got 20 pages of propane topics. I will try again under refridge only but maybe someones got some ideas. thanks |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 3:05 am: | |
is the bus leval |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 6:49 am: | |
Assuming the fridge or RV is fairly level and not parked on a
rakish hill, and that the temperature setting and control knob
has been assured to be calling for cooling.... and that there's
12v supplied to the controls ...
Sounds like the cooling unit may be plugged. Some RVrs
claim that they've taken the fridge out and turned it upside
down and have broken the plug and others said that tapping
the top corners of the cooling unit dislodged the plugged up
coil.... I'd try everything first, before buying another fridge...
You can buy just the cooling unit also.....
Look here for info: http://www.rvmobile.com/ |
Rob King
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 10:47 pm: | |
Hi DM Dave
Very common problem usually related to as JTNG said "plugged" cooling system. Our stick and staple had this problem everytime we let it set for more than a few weeks. Very frustrating, but ours would start working when we drove it a while especially on Missouris' rough roads. Cures we were told to use 1. take the cooling coils off the back after pulling the unit and shake back and forth/up and down 2. drive down roughest road for a "while" (20 miles worked for us) 3. replace the cooling unit or 4. replace the frige. The first is cheapest but most time consuming, the last is least time consuming but most expensive. Also something that we discovered when removing the unit to pull the cooling unit the first time, was that ours had a bad contact and wasn't getting good voltage. The ground had corrosion which caused the circuit board to not get proper voltage and gas valve didn't open the right amount to burn warm enough. It is easy to just clean up the wires first to see if that helps. Good luck
Rob |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 1:57 am: | |
If you should smell ammonia when you open one of the doors, then you are likely going to need a new cooling unit. This happens when the tubes rust through.
Good luck.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |
justcorey1960
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 8:55 am: | |
new to board but yes pulling them and shaking (burping) does work ive had 2 older fridges that ive had to pull and do it to |
justcorey1960
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 8:56 am: | |
new to board but yes pulling them turning upside down and shaking (burping) does work ive had 2 older fridges that ive had to pull and do it to |
DMDave
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 7:11 pm: | |
Thanks guys for the help, yes the rig is level,they have a cement pad. I think they will like the rough road idea. I''ll let ya know what works |
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 19, 2005 - 10:25 pm: | |
Why not use a concrete vibrator to shake loose the plug, or a heavy duty massage type vibrator?
Seems with a bus it would take an awfully rough road to get past the air suspension. |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 7:13 am: | |
Yeah, really rough road... Maybe try driving on the railroad tracks?
The "plug" usually develops in one or the other upper corner of the
cooling unit. Tapping lightly, but vigorously, with a hammer might
break up the crystals that have probably been formed inside the
bend. The liquid turns to gas during heating, rises, and returns
during cooling. If the fridge was really out of level for too long a
time during too many of those cycles, the chemicals in the gas
crystallize in the upper level, rather than drop to the bottom with
the condensed gas. That's what causes a "plug" to form. Once
that happens, your pudding develops a fur coat and the meat
starts tasting like my sister-in-law cooked it (maybe better)..
Taking the fridge out and turning it upside-down for a day, may
work also. I'd try that, after trying everything else - and before I
go order a new cooling unit or fridge. You'll have to take it out
anyway... so what's another day?
If you can get the "plug" to break up, the particles may drop
and mix again with the liquid and save you a bunch of $$$. |
DMDave
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 10:22 am: | |
thanks again everybody who spoke up. I thinks its been sitting to long altho they keep it in use for a spare fridge usually plugged in to 110. i think he will try to pull it out and go from there. |
john that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 7:11 pm: | |
Dave-
Don't forget Rob's suggestion either... low voltage or a poor
flame would keep the thing from cooling. The fact it isn't
cooling on 110 could be a separate problem! Feel the coil and
chimney and see if it's hot. If it's real hot, then worry about it
being plugged... if it's cool, then you can probably fix it without
taking the fridge out. A new gas nozzle, better voltage supply, etc..
Lotsa' luck! |