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Mike M

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 2:45 pm:   

I have constructed some run-up blocks from 2"x10".
Is it best to run up the rear duals centered on the block, so each tire is roughly half on the block, or place the block squarely on the inner or outer tire?

Thanks.
Mike.
1982 GMC 5307
TWODOGS (Twodogs)

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 3:23 pm:   

inner
Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 5:07 pm:   

I've done it on either inner or outer tire and have seen no ill effects for short-term uses. I don't think the 9-1/4" inches of a 2x10 will give you enough on both tires if you try to run it down the middle. Like TD says, the inner probably makes the most sense structurally.

BB
Mike M

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 5:44 pm:   

Thanks
Geoff (Geoff)

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 7:55 pm:   

Mike-- just run them up the outer wheels, it is much easier than trying to scoot the wood to the inside, and it really doesn't make a difference in structual load. That is the way I always do it and I have left it up for weeks like that. The only thing I don't like is how you used narrow planks of wood-- I used 2x12's, they give you a better foundation.

--Geoff
'82 RTS CA
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 9:36 pm:   

The stress point of each wheel is essentially at the same point on the hubs so I can't see where it would make a structural difference. Any leverage exerted by either tire ends up at the same point, on the studs and hubs.
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)

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Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 10:44 pm:   

Mike M., if you have constructed two run up blocks, as we have, try something that Fast Fred taught me.

Put both blocks under one set of duals and do whatever work you want to do under that corner. It's easier than you think because the outer one gives you the lineup for the inner one.

If you are using them for leveling, this won't work, but otherwise, it works just fine. I have no trouble greasing our coach by lifting just one corner.

Did you laminate your runup blocks so as to prevent splitting?

Good luck with your blocks.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Mike M

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Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 - 11:25 am:   

Thanks all.

I used the 2x10's because I had them lying around. I used construction glue between the layers and gave them a thick layer of marine laquer. They're solid as a rock.

I have a solid compacted driveway so I wasn't too concerned with the narrower footprint, and I blocked the bus excessively after driving up on the blocks (pretty eery lying under 40,000lbs, I'd never make a good spelunker!).

It is amazing how much more room that 6" gives you.

Thanks again for everyone's input.
What a crazy fun hobby!

Mike.
Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 12:05 am:   

What is the best wood to use from a compression standpoint? Doug Fir? I've been told pine and cedar are too soft????

Chuck Newman
Oroville, CA
Brian Brown (Fishbowlbrian)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 12:19 am:   

Chuck, Southern Yellow Pine is the strongest coniferous wood available, and is often found treated. Any of the structural grades (SS, #1, #2) should be fine.

Doug Fir is pretty stout, too, if you can't get SYP in your neck of the woods.

An engineered product like Microlam from TJM would be better still in compression (and any other meaningful metric compared to solid sawn lumber), as long as you can protect it from delaminating. Probably overkill, though, and really heavy.

HTH,
BB
FAST FRED

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Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 5:51 am:   

AS most wood has about 4000lbs per sq inch of compression handeling ability , the best is the LIGHTEST you can find.

Spruce would be fine , and easier to drag about than heavier wood.

Glue is fine to HELP the bolts , but thru bolts is a requirement!!

1/2 inch threaded rod and a fistfull of washers & nuts is easy. Be sure to chisel a deformation on the thread ends after assembly.

Works for me ,

FAST FRED
TWODOGS (Twodogs)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 9:07 am:   

and install a handel on the side ...at the balance point....

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