| Author | Message | ||
| max muston (Radmaxntx)
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hi all, been a while since i've posted. does anyone have a source for that tar tape used to seal the roof pannels to the braces? or is there something else that is being used? | ||
| Rich International Bus & Parts
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Hi Max, The Butyl Tape is still available. We carry it. But is is outdated. Hard to work with, messy, sticky, & not as effective as Sika Flex. Let me know if you have any questions. Rich | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
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George, a guy who travels all over in his RV, swears by "Eternabond One Step Miracle RV Tape." You can see his testimonial here. | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
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If it doesn't ooze, what are those globs I see on top of the moulding? I suppose he put the molding back on without cleaning off the old rubber or sealant. | ||
| CoryDaneRTS Rating: N/A |
If the RV has a rubber roof, why does it need the tape to seal the seam? When I applied the CoolSeal roof, it had a cloth that is applied over the seams and saturated with CoolSeal to a permanent seal. Nothing else was needed. that roof was done in 1989 and had never leaked there after with very little maintenance. (the white color offered tremendous reflective ability of heat) So, Are the rubber roofs cut-to-fit? and require additional sealing to keep water out? MAX: are you just trying to "attach" the panels to the braces to prevent noise from flex or are you after waterproofing??? If you are merely attaching the panels, I'd use the 3m tape that was used on the WOTHELLISTHAT when he installed the diamond plates to the side of the vehicle. From RobRoys Logs... DIARY #23 (" So how is this sheeting attached? Pop rivets?, tech screws?, Sikaflex? None of the above. It relies entirely on double-sided tape. That's right, double-sided tape. But this is not your average hardware store mirror tape. It's 3M VHB (Very High Bond) and believe me, this stuff sticks. When I asked the 3M rep what I do if I make a mistake placing the sheet he simply said "You don't make mistakes". Apparently the minute you press the sheet a 20% bond is created. At this point you need an air chisel to remove the sheet (destroying it in the process). (and another) FROM DIARY #24 Now I said I'd talk about the backing tearing. There are two types of VHB designed for this application, 4951 and 4950. They are essentially the same except that 4951 can be applied at temperatures down to zero degrees. There is however one other difference I discovered, their backing material. The 4951 has a clear, mylar-like backing that is very strong. The 4950 has a more paper-like backing that will tear with little or no provocation which is a real pain in the arse. For this reason I peeled back both ends so if the backing tore as I was removing it from one end I had a second chance from the other. ") Another material The best material for sealing your seams is Dupont Ultrapro Urethane Seam Sealer. This is a paintable sealer. This is the sealer that the pros use when painting. When I had our coach paint at Topeka Graphics a few years back this is what they use to seal all the seams on the coach. From Arch: The seam sealer I used on the roof and on the top of the side rails is C-10. Great stuff when you learn how to use it. It is a self leveling caulk---that means it runs down into cracks. You cant use it on the sidewalls. You put the stuff on then go back and check it after about 4 hours. You will see cracks in it---fill them in. Next day check it again. If there are any cracks fill them in. I used it on my roof to seal the fore and aft seams and all down the side rails. My coach sit out 24/7. In the 4 years it has been on I have only had one leak. After a 100 degree day we had a big rain and I had a leak over the stove. Went up on top and found two cracks in the caulk---filled them in---that was 3 years ago and no more leaks since then. Now I had it on my SOB for about 6 years with no leaks then one day I noticed it was starting to curl up. The old stuff peeled up fairly easy. Put down some more and sold it that way 2 years later. from FBB If you need to seal a joint, butyl-based sealants are what I'd use on metal-to-metal connections (or metal-to-anything-else). It's used on flashings of all sorts in the construction industry, and stays pliable almost indefinitely. Silcones really can't touch it for a long-lasting, flexible joint on metal. You can find buytl rubber sealant in tubes at any home improvement or hardware store. Watch out when using it, because it's tenacity as a sealant makes it a stringy mess that hardly comes off of anything... including you. and from GaryM Again. 3M5200 Or Sikaflex if it's easy to get. IMO Butyl is for installing windshields and little else. Gary -------------- Personally, I think Sikaflex is too finicky, has too short a work life for install, shelf life is like zero, once the container is opened, the dead life of the material counter is on a countdown no matter how well you reseal it. Its expensive for all the trouble it is and you have to by a cleaner and primer to boot. I've seen people "SIKAFLEX" windows to a painted column, well folks, the strength is equal to the weak link, which would be (I THINK) the paint, or how well you cleaned the metal, or the Sikaflex itself. Too much fooling around for such an expense. Hope I hit your question somewhere in the blog cd | ||
| max muston (Radmaxntx)
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hi again thanks for the posts. my roof pannels are aluminum the braces are steel creating a dissimilar junction and inducing corrosion. i've got the vhb tape, theres no way i would use it exclusivly. if you read the installation instructions you need something like 4 square inches of tape surface area per pound of roof/skin. thats on a surface that doesn't move. but i guess i'm hearing to use this tape (for cossosion resistance) + rivots(for strength) and silaflex (for sealing)???? | ||
| CoryDaneRTS Rating: N/A |
According the the article, the tape is used for strenth, holdingn power. I assume the fact that it is plastic technology that the corrosion resistance is a benefit. Rivits will complete the circuit for dissimilar metals and you will start the electrolisis even with the tape added for prevention. Rivits are strong holding points, however. I have never heard of Sikaflex used for sealing but, when it works, it is a strong holding glue. Reports are it is difficult to use, no shelf life, expensive. There have been reports where the Sikaflex let go and the panels fell off the bus. It is a commercial product but you need to do a lotof prep to use this right and have to use it all when you open it. Not my first choice. good luck cd | ||
| R ,C. Bishop
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CD.... I supose it is all what you consider the "project" to be worth. IF one follows the instructions provided by SIKA USA ( web)it is no different, mostly, than ANY surface preparation required by ANY seal or paint product. ( when all else fails, follow directions) A tube of SIKA...(there are MANY different products of theirs available) runs about two to three times the cost of any other good sealant, $10 or so. And if well planned, several projects can be done at the same time, eliminating waste. Steve Padgett at SIKAUSA will gladly send email or faxed instructions for any use of Sika Products. DISCLAIMER....I am am not in any way connected with SIKA.....just a customer. FWIW......  RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| Rich International Bus & Parts
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Sika does all (3) things that are essential in Bus conversion work. A)Eliminates Electrolysis (corrosion that occurs at an expedited rate between dissimilar metals) B) Seals completely C) Bonds with extreme tensile strength. Very few other products can do all three in one. Prep is necessary, But prep is necessary with any VHB tape or any other sealant, even rivets........I have seen riveted panels fall off of a bus!! If you rivet into a rusted area.... Usually the Sika "nay-sayers" have either never used it, Or don't follow the simple instructions. The Brand New Prevost H-3 and XLII's use Sika all over the place. All of the exterior skins on the XLII are held on with Sika....There was a comment also that Sika has a short "work time"???? You have (2) to (3) hours before it starts to cure!! (24) hours for a full cure. And a 9-12 month shelf life. And as far as using & re-using. Like any caulk. If you don't put a bolt in the end & rubber band a baggie around it, it's shot. I just re-used Sika from 1-10-05.............. I would welcome Cory to talk to me or come to one of my Sika seminars. I too was a "nay-sayer" until I started talking to the people at Sika & doing my own testing . Now I do seminars on the stuff. Rich | ||
| Arthur J. Griffith
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I have been using Sika to glue the skins on my Eagle. I LOVE It. Yes there is a learning curve like anything else that is good. Buy yourself a neumatic caulking gun. Do not use on a rainey day. If the weather is cold, warm the tube up a little bit. FOLLOW THE DAM DIRECTIONS primer and all. Please don't anyone tell my wife about my affair with SIKA. Arthur | ||
| R.C.Bishop
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Rich....I know exactly where CD is coming from....BUT, having said that, there is definitely a learning curve, as with ANY product. and 252, AIRC, has a 20 minute working time..... However, the big thing for me was that the shelf life of the product was nearing the end....some I received was on the date and other was past the date....mighty, mighty tough to apply. The supplier made good, however and, as they say, all's well that ends well...right? A supurb product IF used according to directions. And well worth the $$. FWIW RCB |